308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

How do you expect him to have the cams welded & reground w/o removing the cam gears?

Except for the flanges wanting to pop off, IMHO, Those plastic gears aren't anywhere near as fragile as you seem to think they are.

 

chris....... wat gives... not slice of pizza in sight........... keep them pics comin cheers

 

Chris,

Great job!

Before taking out the camfollowers, mark them with their position so that they go back into the holes they came out of. Don't worry about the shims if everything is being re-done and cams are re-ground.

Happy motoring,

Jack V.

 

Brother Chris-

Looking good!

I assume you will be replacing ALL timing drive bearings and seals (they are behind the lower cam belt drive gears)- since you already have the transmission off- it's a no-brainer IMHO.

I hope that damper is already loose.

Seems you are just about ready to get those heads off!!

thanks for taking the time to post your progress-

John

 

Chris, suggest you go to the Ferrari.uk site & look at prices before posting. You're talking about maybe $60 - $75 all told for the timing drive bearings & seals if they're bought from a local bearing supply co, maybe 2x to 3x that from an F* source, & yes you must replace them. BTW, also rebuild your waterpump, parts are less than $200.

Yes, that's what died on Wiseman's car, & I there were signs that your timing drive seals were starting to go.

You should be worrying about the price of things like pistons, valves, head pulling plate(s), main bearings & conn rod journal bearings, crank thrust washers, head gaskets, rebuild gasket & seal set, having the cylinders bored, the head rebuilt with new valve guides & valve seats, flow matching various ports. Not to mention shipping things back & fourth across the country at $300 to $500 each way. That's what's going to eat up $8K to $12K in a hurry.

 

They aren't bolts, those are nuts on the end of the head studs.
As to why they're cap/acorn nuts, Only Ferrari knows...

BTW, plan on replacing all head studs & nuts. When they're torqued down, they're permanently stretched so cannot be reused.

 

What? you're kidding right? Replacing the head studs is bad advice. Do you know why most aluminum engines use studs instead of bolts?

 

Hey Chris,

I would wait to see what the studs look like before making a decision to change them. unless they are badly corroded, I personnally would leave them right were they are, as they are not torque yeild bolts. just my .02

 

The long version of where I'm coming from is:

The 'best' method is to remove the studs, helicoil or timesert the holes, & use new studs.

I've always been taught to replace the studs when rebuilding an engine, going back to V8s & my XK Jag engine rebuilds.

I just spoke with a long-time professional F* mechanic. He said if it were a vintage V12 he'd always replace the studs.

I was wrong, the torque till stretched a given amount using a goniometer studs didn't come into use until the 4V engines. So the 2V V8s are a judgement call:

- Replacing the studs definitely should be done when a stud has heavy corrosion buildup where it joins the block as odds are it will break if it's torqued.

- If the studs look pretty clean then it's reasonable to consider re-using them to save the customer $$. What's a reasonable amount of corrosion to risk accepting becomes a judgement call based on experience.

There's nothing worse than having the engine all together & having to pull it apart again to replace a broken stud, get another set of gaskets, ensure the sleeves are back into position, etc. A lot of the bigger shops will most likely always replace the studs on any of the engines as a matter of practice.

 

Thats all 10, then a lot of pulling they are usually stuck on on pretty tight.

 

Yes Chris, those are the nuts you want to remove. There are machined washers under them as well.

As for replacing the studs, it is a judgement call, but it should be approached with great caution. The studs are very hard steel, and would be extremely hard to drill, if not impossible, if one broke while trying to remove them. And the odds one out of 20 will break are VERY high. I think out of the number of blocks ive seen on eBay, nearly half had a broken off stud in them. Brian Crall had a 308 block with a broken stud. Mark Eberhardt just snapped one off.

Personally I wouldnt try turning them out unless I seen something major I couldnt repair any other way. If one snaps off, the only way I would know to get one out is with an EDM machine, and whoever does it better know what the hell they are doing or you wont have a block left to put back together. Unless there is significant pitting of the studs, or heavy corrosion to the block deck surface, I would leave the darn things alone.

 

on friday after stripping 2v engine..... if i could get the h/studs out we were going to face the block..... tight h/studs v alloy block...... (i would rather swim across a croc infested billabong!!! than try removing them) so i slept on it i soaked them with wd-40 next day spent 20 min with a small hammer applying light taps on all the way round the studs.. some of them would not budge i really didn't try 2 hard to remove the stubern one's..... my kuhuna's not big enough i ended up removing 12 of them the one's that came out came out v easy..........

 

Looks pretty clean Chris. Pistons look great too. I wish my engine was half that clean, its a real pig. And its looking like this isnt the first mine was out either. Got my heads off tonight too, so were even, lol. Well, not really, I still have to split it and mount it on the stand.

 

I looks like your luck is holding! Only one stud that looks like it was stuck and that too bad at that, wow!

 

Now, squirt them studs with AeroKroil,, or SiliKroil. Wait three weeks.

Then, Pull them head studs.

 

I was using the standard kroil on my heads studs for about a week before I tried to pull them. On the 9 of 10 that came out, there was no sign of the oil more than about 1/8" from the top of the block. If there isn't a really good reason to pull thos studs, I would leave them right where they are.

 

Hey Chris

looks pretty good, glad to see they came off before having to pull out the bigger guns. My front bank came off fairly easy but the rear was much harder, I needed to loosen the stud caps off about 2 turns from tight then lift the entire block with the engine hoist,(strap around the head) and hang vertically by the head. I used a medium dead blow and tapped around the head until I saw some seperation from the head gasket (and a little glycol) then a friend and i just slowly rocked the head back and forth till it came off. ( about 25 Minutes total). food for thought incase the other head is a PITA.

 

Chris

If your doing the heads and plan on changing the Valves to get rid of the sodiums, I can get you the SI Stainless Steel HiFlow Competion Valves for $26.00 each. they have stock seat angles, and undercut stems.

Let me know if I can help out.