Advice for my first track day

If you are worried about the paint from rock chips you might try this instead of the blue painters tape. It is thicker and is not supposed to leave a residue. I have not used this brand myself. I would still apply before the event then remove right after to minimize any sticky residue.

http://www.installersstore.com/cgi-bin/INSstore.pl?user_action=list&category=Floor%20Protector%3BHard%20Floor%20Protection

 

Great advice from everyone here !

My .02, if you and the instructor/event rules allow, let an instuctor drive your car on the race line with you as a passenger. When I did this it TOTALLY improved both my line and my confidence in the ability of my car. Then it is just up to you to learn your own limits (read- brass balls).Tracking my car is the single most exciting and exhilarating thing I do, and I do alot of adrenaline junkie stuff. Watch not only your line, but the hotshoe in your rear view mirror, some people get carried away in the moment.

Enjoy !!

 

NO!

Lots of good advice here, but I'm amazed no one has *yelled* at you to replace at least the front pads (They wear much faster than the rears) - Even if you're on a light braking track you will, at the least, overheat the fluid and at worst destroy the rotors (100% pads dissipate heat much better than 50 (soon to be 25%) pads.) - This is a known "weakness" of the 360.... Save the old pads for street use later if you're that hard up (!) but I *strongly* suggest new pads.

Cheers,
Ian

 

And, BTW, the hotshoe who just overtook you on the straight is most likely to spin at the following corner as he tries to prove just how much faster he is than you - Happens all the time!.....

Enjoy the day!,
Ian

 

Castrol SRF brake fluid. Pricey, but absolutely the best and will not boil.

 

Fill up with gas right before you get to the track. You will get maybe 3mpg tracking. High g-loads can also cause fuel starvation in the corners.

 

That is excellent advice. If you run out of gas and keep other people off the track while they tow your car in you will not be the most popular guy in the paddock. Do not waste your money on the high octane race fuel at the track. Unless the ECU in your car is calibrated for it you will not achieve any great gains in horsepower and they will gouge you for $8-10.00/gallon.

 

Good advice - keep track of the number of sessions you do. 3 mpg is a bit pessimistic I see about about 6 mpg in my 430CH, and perhaps a tick more than that in the CS. A full 25 gallon tank will do 3 30 minute sessions at the Glen (about 7.5 gallons/session). If you're running a 20 minute session, about 5 gallons should do you, so you *might* make 5 20 min sessions on a full tank. Its not a bad strategy to nip out at lunch and refuel.

Interstingly the fuel gauges on the 360/430CH plain don't work, so the 5/7.5 a session thing is pretty important. The sender is a float based thing which is fine in the regular tank, but it just gets jammed in the fuel cell foam. I've seen mine reading 99 (full) after 3 sessions from a full tank.

 

I thought I had good brake fluid in my car (it was find for day to day driving) but the first time I tracked my car I ran out of brakes because the fluid boiled. That was fun! Fortunately the track had a nice run-off at the end of the main straight or it might have been embarrassing...

 

My advice was going to be "don't crash - you can't win practice" but it looks like it's too late for the poor vette.

 

brake early, late apex. don't freak when the brakes fade, and don't put the parking brake on when you stop.

 

oh yeah. if you're going to continue, park your Ferrari and buy a race car....it'll be cheaper/safer/faster.

 

Cool picture! Before you know it you'll end up in the Ferrari Challenge!

 

Tiff can offer some advice. Found it interesting...especially at the end.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Bdu18vwQGyY

 

First advice: Read what Peter Krause wrote ten times. Second advice: Re-read what Peter Krause wrote ten more times.

This is the best part about this site: getting free advice from people like Peter Krause. (and if you aren't already a member, you now officially "owe" a Rosso subscription!)

Might want to think about race-spec brake pads and fluid.

Love the $150K car with a velcro fire extinguisher mount (and a $20 extinguisher)! Truth is indeed stranger - and funnier - than fiction. Most track day clubs require a hard-mounted, metal fire extinguisher mount, since it doesn't seem like you have much interest in DIY, your dealer/shop can set you up.

Let us know what you think of the Skip Barber class in comparison to tracking the 360. For many people, learning in a rudimentary (no traction control, ABS, etc.), lighter weight, low horsepower car is the best way to learn how to drive on a race track. Lots of horsepower can get in the way of learning how to corner properly because you can always make up time on the straights. But some people also do great learning how to drive in an extremely fast car.

Just be prepared – if the bug really hits you doing track days, you'll want to race in organized events before you know what'***** you.

Here's a great Peter Egan quote for perspective: "Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague longing for something salty."

 

D'uh. Because this thread was bumped up by the new posts, I wasn't paying attention that this started as an older thread (and also totally missed the second page)!

So you've already "been there/done that" – sounds like you're having a blast. Hats off to you for actually daring to drive your car as it was intended to be driven.

 

Interesting write up! Do you work in Fire Protection Engineering? You seem to know a bit about extinguishing agents.

Halon 1301 is effective indeed, but isn't it banned? I know for system use in buildings you're only allowed to refill cylinders, but no longer allowed to put in a new 1301 system.

And what about Inergen or FM-200 in an extinguisher?

 

Hi Jack,

now, as you have attended several track days with your 360, I would be interested in how it was in more detail because it's my long-year hobby too. I don't know how fast you go and I don't know the 360 (or any other Ferrari) on the track. Perhaps somebody else with longer track experience can answer these questions too.

Particulary interesting is: how do the brakes work on the track (assuming you use race brake fluid and race pads)? Do you have problems with the brakes in general? Do they fade after a while, do they get soft or anything like this? How often do you have to change the pads and the discs?

What about the engine? BTW - does the Modena have dry sump lubrication? Particulary interesting for me is the F1 gearbox. Does it stand race-speeds, does it need extended servicing?

And Jack, I saw on you public profile flying is one of your hobbies - what do you fly?

Best regards from Munich, Germany,

Martin

 

Hah! I'll have to put that testimonial on my page! <grin>

It's true, though. This is the most fun you can have with your clothes on. That Corvette was done in by "the loose nut behind the wheel." You sound like your sensible enough not to have anything to worry about. We're all glad you've "joined the club." <very big grin>

-Peter
www.peterkrause.net

 

record your track days, and always bring extra set of brake pads and some tools.

 

Even if they run the same lap times, would you rather track a Ferrari or a Miata?

 

Yep, that's probably true. As the bug bites harder (and you get quicker), you'll become more aware of the weight and the thrashing that your are giving your marvelous F-car. The idea of a Challenge cars is the natural progression, but there are also many purpose-built (not constructed initially for street use) cars out there that are a rush and follow Noel's credo. <grin>

-Peter
www.peterkrause.net