Pic of my 308 motor with the latest goodies!

Thanks . . . . so nice you're no longer a lurker!

 

Sweet...looks like you got a great pocket rocket !!

 

Thanks again . . . went for a glorious 3 hour mountain shake down this morning.

I'm probably going again tomorrow a.m. again. See So Cal section if anyone wants to meet up.

Sean

 

Install looks great. Im doing the same thing w/ a 034 2c setup, I'll be running a baseline map from a 3.6 audi V8 motor, going to run it rich at startup until we can tweak it. 034EFI hasn't cornered the market yet for ferraris, yet...

Keep up the good work. It's nice to see something outside the box on an fcar.

 

Thanks . . . I'm not familiar with "034 EFI". I'm interested in more info.

I'm planning on upgrading to an ECU that'll handle full sequential injection on a V8. I haven't decided to go the cheap route with one of the "DIY" controls, Haltech E11, or say WTF and get the Motec which integrates with the AIM data acquistion system.

Thanks,

Sean

 

Hey Luckydynes, What you have done and are doing is GREAT, taking something good and making it better, YOU are my Hero,, Can you fabricate NOS plates for a 308 carb motor ?, For now i will go back to looking at your pictures THANKS ERic

 

Thanks much and easy on the hero . . . that word is used WAY too much these days! FabBillyBob already did injection plates for carb'd cars years ago . .. he might even still have some of his injector plates . . . I remember him showing them to me years ago at a swap meet. With my EFI I don't have to worry about secondary fuel enrichment for the nitrous (I hope . . . depends of course how much I dump in, etc.). With the carbs, you'll have to add fuel with your nitrous which definitely is not a bad thing . . .. I'm just trying to keep my setup completely covert and this would be difficult with extra fuel plumbing with the nitrous.

Sean

 

Lucky, looks great,

So, if i am reading the map right, it looks like you have 36 degrees at 4000 rpm. What is the initial advance??

How about hiding the additional gas lines (for a carb nitrous) in the vapor purge lines under the throttle plates??

regards,
chris

 

Off top of my head 8-10 degees initial . . . can check if you want. I think I copied the euro 308 curve from the shop manual. FYI I'm near 12:1 compression and add about 1 gallon of toluene to a gas tank if it's hot out and I plan on pushing. She's running so good I've kinda lost the nitrous bug

Not real familiar with the plumbing layout on carb cars but FatBillyBob been there done that

Sean

 

Sean,
What bike model & year are those COPs from?

I've been thinking about going to COPs as part of my SC upgrade.

 

Never mind, did my homework (Searched for COP) & found that you're using HONDA 954 COPs. Picked up 2 sets + 954 ignition sub-harnesses from eBAY for less than $150.

 

Good deal

I think I spent that much on connector ends once I got the coils.

 

BTW Sean,
Did I read that you were able to find ends that matched up to the harness connectors for the Digiplexes, or did you just tap into the wires that go to the digiplex connectors?

 

Couldn't find any ends and the only thing I'm reading off the original harness now is "key on" . . . I was reading the stock triggers when I was running the dizzy's but can't use them to drive more than 2 coils FYI . .. the tach signal is in there also come to think of it but my tach's reading double so it's not hooked up right now.

Make sure you use resistor plugs with the stick coils if you go that route . . . how are you triggeirng all this? Did you buy Mark's setup complete?

 

Sean,

NOx....!! Neat-O
(But, that's gonna put some strain on your rear end.)
Does anybody make a lower ratio, bullgear set for our cars...?

Oh, and
does your wife know you stole her dryer hose?

Edwardo
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Hopefully Mark's engine tested the gearbox for us all

Thanks . .. now she knows about the dryer hose . .. she's probably lurking

Sean

 

Sean,

Maybe I'm missing something, but is there an air filter in that intake?? You might want to consider replacing that dryer hose with something a little more rigid and with less accordian folds. A friend of mine who is on here, Paul (PAD), turned the rear trunk into a cold air box by running the intake straight back from the passenger side opening to the trunk, and then running a straight piece from the trunk to the intake manifold on the engine, with a large K&N filter mounted in the trunk on the run to the manifold. Previously, he had a box in the trunk made of sheet aluminum to accomplish this setup, but after the body work from his Watkins Glen incident, he turned the whole trunk area into a cold air box. Interesting idea and works really well.

Steve

 

There's a K&N and adapter that holds the air temperature sensor on the end of the dryer hose . . . the hose is actually pretty rigid .. . the hose was intended to be temporary but it's been on there for over a year now . .. might make something out of aluminum that follows that route . .. I'm not sure I'm actually going to gain any RWHP doing that . .. the filter is sitting basically right in the passenger side intake duct . . . might just be adding weight You forget about the dryer hose pretty quick when you hear the intake and exhaust noise


Interesting thought on the cold air box . .. I really want to keep a trunk on this car but on the race car anything goes.

 

That's exactly what Paul is doing. His car is basically set up as a track car, but he does drive it on the street now and then.

 

I got about 95% of his setup. He hadn't decided to go with a V12 when I bought his, so I couldn't get his cam trigger setup, extra pins on the flywheel, or the HaltechE11 harness with the rest of the system. Then he forgot that I might be interested & sold the cam position setup on eBAY .

I'm going to do this project in stages. Current thinking is:

Phase I will be to pull the plenum, risers, throttle body, &CIS. Then do a major, replace a bunch of hoses, install the SC & get it running using an E11V2 with the current sensors, dual distributors & batch firing the injectors. Probably will select the SC pulleys to give a modest 7-8psi boost so I can stay within the stock clutch's limits. Can't rule out making a cam position sensor & going w/sequential injection. This should give me around 260 - 280 RWHP.

Phase II I'm planning to add sequential injection & an MSD-4 driving the COPs, so will need a cam position sensor. I haven't looked enough at the E11V2's documentation to see if I can program it to use the current 1-4 TDC & flywheel tooth sensors + a cam position sensor to run it. If not, then I've got to pick another trigger system design.

Phase III will be to plumb the intercooler up, install a high capacity radiator, replace the clutch with one that can take more power, & re-pulley the SC for more boost. I'm not sure if I have the cojones to go for the full 400+ RWHP that Mark was getting tho, might just go for something like 325-350 RWHP. That's still going to be one kick-A$$ street car.

At some point I'm going to have to buy wider wheels so I can get a larger rubber patch down, at least a wider rear patch. I'd like to keep it looking stock tho. Might see if I can find a wheel shop that can cut & widen my front Superformance wheels to become my new rear wheels & move the 8" rear wheels up front...

 

I forgot you on the cam position sensor, but I do have a MSD -4 going up for sale.

I'm pretty sure you can NOT simply use 1 of the OEM triggers. You need a pulse before each ignition event, using one trigger without adding 2 more pins to the flywheel would only get you 1/2 the trigger pulses you need. It is very easy to add 2 more pins to the flywheel or you can switch to a different type of trigger. I'm told the standard 36 or 60 tooth designs are better than a couple 2 or 4 pind becasue the computer gets rpm change data faster, it doesn't have to wait 90 or 180 degrees of crank rotation. 90 degrees may not seem like much, I never even thought about it, but I'm told it makes a difference. If you went with a 60-2 trigger say, you could run your waste-spark set-up and run the injectors semi-sequentail and not need a cam sensor.

 

You know you're already forgiven about the cam pos. sensor. & you've just got eMAIL on the MSD-4


There are 3 sensors: A TDC sensor for each bank, & one that pulses on each flywheel tooth. Was thinking that I could use the tooth sensor to give the high resolution info to the HALTECH, & a TDC sensor to give the 'home' info.

Oh, $%$, just realized that the TDC sensors are triggered at TDC & TDC+90 degrees, so can't be used for Home w/o pulling one of the flywheel pins.

Hmm, After scanning the HALTECH manual, it I don't see where you can specify an arbitrary number of pulses/crank revolution. Did I over look this capability?

 

bumping this for someone that asked me about the EFI conversion.

I'll post a pic of what the engine bay looks like today ... after 500 hrs of running .

cheers

 

Had to include a pic of one of my other Fchat inspired projects .

I added that plastic overflow tank to monitor what the heck goes on with the cooling system and will be replacing it with the aluminum model shortly.

cheers
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Lucky..

Who's a good supplier for an hour meter such as yours?

Thanx