Engine Removal for Testarossa

Here's a link to a CD of TR Workshop Manual on Ebay. Armed with that the whole procedure should be a snap.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8032704622&category=100939

 

Some information on the subject from Ric Rainbolt:
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No pics but very cool - I've been menaing to try this myself since I bought my TR - it almost sounds doable now

 

It really is easy. I used a two post lift and welded up a dolly with screw heigth adjustment to hold the subframe. Sneaky parts include: a couple of bolts on the top of the shock mount (look carefully to see which ones), a water line that feeds the heater core (folded mine in half but made a new one), special bolt that locks the trany in gear (so it can't be messed with), you'll need a cap for the brake line (or the fluid drips forever) and just go slow. YMMV

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86 TR

 

I wonder if some one could provide a step by step list on the removal? You know a first disconnect this and secondly disconnect that, and unbolt this procedure. I have asked a couple of members for this info and been told it would be forth coming and it never appears. I would think this would be a worthwhile "list" to have for the membership. I can rebuild engines and dismantle a car with my eyes closed............but this really intimadates me because of the huge costs that could be incurred by forgetting that one small nut, bolt, hose or wire! I would be willing to pay someone for their time and effort to be able to get a step by step list of the PROPER procedure to remove the TR engine and subframe assemblies..........Any help out there in F land? Thanks, Kerry

PS I bought the car from carguy (jeff) and he removed it a couple times...but...the same oil leak problem he tried to fix is still happening, (crank seal is leaking). I have a new seal and a ready sleeve to finally alleviate the sepage, which come to find out is a result of a small gouge on the crank end sealing surface. I have given up on Jeff, (it's been a year) getting me a list of how and what to disconnect to facilitate the proper way to remove, I'm sure he is busy with his new TR and has better things to do rather than mentor a newbie. Just looking for a comprihensive step by step for the do it yourselfer.....
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I've been intently watching the 512TR engine removal thread by Adam. So easy with the 512 to pop it out through the top. I use the term 'easy' because you can do it in a standard garage with an engine hoist.

I've got a pretty good shed, but no car hoist in there as in Australia, 99% or car hoists require three phase power (415V) and our homes only have 240V. Costs sh1tl0ads to get three phase connected! Full size car hoists are generally found in garages as 415V is a commercial power supply.

Can the Testarossa engine be removed like a 512TR, ie: out through the top? Would be much easier to support the car on jack stands 400 or so off the ground so you can slide under easily to get to a few things, then pop off the rear deck lid and lift the donk out using an overhead hoist or simple hydraulic engine crane. Is the Testa so much different to the 512TR?

 

Yes I think you can remove the Testarossa's engine out the top like a 512TR. I've always done it by dropping everything out the bottom, but after discussing this with another very experienced fchatter, I think the next time I do a service I will pull it out the top. It will allow the car to be movable which is nice. You could probably even leave the exhaust system in the car. Just unhook all fuel lines, water hoses, AC, Wiring, Shifter, Half-shafts, throttle cable, oil lines, vacuum lines, pull off the air cleaner, unbolt the 4 motor mounts.....and yank that puppy out of there.

 

Thanks for that beautiful picture. I think I will save it in my "Ferrari Pics" folder and try to convince everybody that it belongs to 60447!!!

 

Yeah that motor looks pretty good there doesn't it? I spent lots of hours on it. Some of the finishes aren't correct as far as "shade" of color but overall it looks nice anyways. I used stainless fasteners everywhere I could. The front main seal always weeped a little oil. I replaced the seal twice and each time it only stopped the leak for a few weeks and then it returned. I polished the small knick in the crankshaft snout, but I guess the change in the surface is just enough to allow oil to seep out past the seal. I even used a stronger spring inside the seal lip for more "squeeze" against the crankshaft snout to no avail. Kerry's idea of using a "ready-sleeve" should do fix it once and for all.

 

Yes, but, in addition to Jeff's list, the clutch pumpkin has to be removed as well (which also requires removing the exhaust system):
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Thanks Steve for that tidbit about the exhaust system needing removing. I thought that "just perhaps" there was just enough clearance between the clutch housing/drop gears and the muffler to raise the motor up and out, provided you remove the heat shield first.

 

Well it looks like this can be done. Actually good for two reasons.

1. Car can remain mobile for the duration.
2. Can be done in a home garage without requiring a full vehicle hoist.

Thanks guys.

 

After thinking about this thread, I'm having some confusion between 91TR's posts and my posts. Steve mentioned removing the clutch pumpkin as necessary for pulling the motor. My question is...

Steve, are you viewing this as pulling the motor off top of the gearbox and leaving the gearbox in the car? I was seeing this as pulling the motor/gearbox together. If there isn't room to pull the whole works straight up out of the car due to clutch housing/exhaust system interference....I feel it would be easier to drop the whole exhaust out the bottom first and leave the clutch system intact. Or could the exhaust system just be loosened and wrestled around a bit to get the motor up past it?

 

No -- and separating the engine and gearbox requires removing the clutch pumpkin first anyway (and resealing the gearbox-to-engine isn't something that I'd want to attempt in the engine bay).

I think it's strictly a dimensional problem. Although the back of the clutch pumpkin is about inline with the (fixed) rear cross support, the front of the engine actually extends under the rear window a bit -- or if it did clear by a hair, the chances of breaking the rear window are just too great. I didn't do this work personally, but that shop that did felt this was the best method.
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Well shut my mouth! I'm sorry I didn't understand before, that makes total sense now. Thanks Steve for clarifying this for me.

 

it's child's play, really.
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I am going to try this soon.


Wetpet, nice pic of your son !

 

So who has removed the engine from the top? Any views on your experiences would be great. I want to pull my engine this winter (UK) but am dubious (scared) about dropping the engine because of having to jack the car up?