77 308--leaking oil drain plug..

Teflon pipe thread tape....two or three wraps.

 

You'll want to know if there is a dent or debris in the washer or seat.
You'll want to know if there is debris (or a stripped thread) in the drain plug and/or block threads.
You'll want to know if your torque method/tool is accurate.

 

Yup, but use the oil/fuel-safe version (there are three types of teflon tape).

 

What is the correct torque setting for the oil pan?

JIM

 

Fram made a product that has been discontinued but can still be found on eBay. It's an oil bung that replaces yours, and has a valve mounted in it. When you change the oil, the bung stays in and it goes out the valve through the hose provided. When my Lotus bung started leaking I bought one and it's a really great thing to have! No more worry about stripping threads, and it's even easier to change the oil!

Ken

 

Not a good idea on the F-cars. I have used something like that on old Jaguar engines, but the drain plug is mounted on the side of the oil pan, not the bottom. On the F-cars, the oil drain plug is on the bottom. Those bungs with a valve in them stick out about 1/2" or more, depending on design. If something hits the bottom of the pan, it could sheer off the plug and then you are in deep trouble. Better to stick with the original bolt, as it sits almost flush with the bottom of the pan, reducing the risk of damage and potential loss of oil, IMHO.

 

Greg,

On my '78 308, I have used flat copper washers with good success, rather than the crush washers. I find that the flat washers seal very nicely in that application, and have never needed sealant or tape on the threads. Even with new washers, which I always try to use, I surface them by a few passes in a figure eight on 2000 grit emery paper on a flat surface, both sides. Also, I check the shoulder of the plug and around the drain opening and towel them clean before assembling. I put the washer on, insert the plug, snug it down and torque it, refill and never have so much as a drip. If the plug shoulder is flat, washer is flat and new, and pan is clean and undamaged, the plug should seal without the need for tape on the threads.

Steve

p.s. I always clean the threads on the plug with carb cleaner, and use a lint-free rag in the drain hole to clean the threads before assembly. The draining oil can have a lot of little particles in it that can mess up the threads if you're not careful. But it's the two sides of the washer that make the seal, not the threads.

 

I didn't think of that! It's true too; the brass cap is about 1/2" in thickness which is more than the original bung. I'll have to look at my car again and see if I have a clearance issue!

Ken

 

Greg I would suggest that you do a very close inspection of the pan , threads and the plug. I have never needed to use teflon tape on a drain plug. Something here is not right. Maybe a cracked pan or some bad threads on either the pan or plug or dirt or debri on the washer. I use flat copper washer that I got from T Rutland at .99 cents each. I bought a dozen a few years ago and have never had a leak (same as my condoms) . So do a close inspection and see what you get before you use teflon tape.

 

Sorry to hear that the dozen non-leaking condoms have lasted a full year.

 

I have 11 left. HAHAHHAHAHA

 

Kinda agree, I would get a new plug first. I replace my drain plugs every few years on my cars...they tend to get buggered up if you slip with a wrench or whatever...and I notice that a fresh plug always threads in much nicer than an old one.

 

I agree its not the threads , its the washer that contains the oil . ( unless the threads are stripped and the bolt is not tight enough ) Sounds like a small grit particle got in between the washer and the pan or between the washer and the bolt inner face . I use starting fluid to clean threads but only a tiny squirt b/c it is extremely flammable . I re-anneal copper crush washers with a butane torch when I don't have a new one handy .

 

I bought a couple of those. They are great. I went to the parts store to look for them and they didn't carry them anymore. Called Fram just to find out where I could get another one, Fram said they don't make them anymore. "Fram Sure Drain", there are a bunch of guys selling them on eBay. I don't know where you can cross-ref for your Ferrari?

 

Both are right on.

The drain plug has straight threads (like a bolt) the job of the threads is to hold the flat sealing washer between the shoulder of the plug and the flat surface of the pan. No sealing is done by the threads. Teflon tape or pipe dope is meant for tapered pipe threads where it is actually the threaded fastener that wedges into the hole, the tape or dope primarily lubricates the threads of this high-friction assembly.

If your plug is leaking there is something preventing the plug, washer and pan surface from meeting in a smooth, parallel fit. It could be a burr on one or more of the surfaces. It is possible that your sealing washer wasn't flat or just a milimeter too big (off-center).

It is also possible that there is a fine crack in the pan that is leaking even though the plug is tight.

 

If you continue to have sealing problems, even if things "look OK" physically, you can try adding a thin film of Loctite PST to both sides of the Cu washer sealing surfaces before installation (not the threads). Available in a lot of forms (stick, tube, jar and in different sizes so sort of a lot of different Loctite numbers) -- just do an internet search on "Loctite PST" -- here's one example (not a vendor I use), but I know it's available in smaller tubes too:

http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pm-12023-220-loctite-565-pst-thread-sealant-controlled-strength-50-ml-tube-37396.aspx

 

I bought a bunch of crush washers that have rubber "O" rings built right into them (both sides). I think they were less that $1 each.

Sorry I don't remember the exact size or part number but I have posted this before.

Anyhow the supplier is:
http://www.hydraulic-supply.com

But their website sucks so I suggest you give them a call.

 

I just use a flat washer that I got from Ace Hardware. It looks just like the one I took off the first time I changed oil. They didn't have the metric size, so I got a 7/8 ths. The difference in size between the 7/8 and the original is maybe half a milimeter.

Bob Wassam

 

I didn't know that Rutlands sold condoms.....

Huh, learn something new here ev'ry day!

JIM

 

Really? Didnt think teflon reacted with anything, including oil.

 

Get outta here....copper condoms....sheesh. Isnt that kinda too stiff??

 

If you look at a crush washer one side is flat and the other is rounded. Always put the flat side against the plug as it has a machined surface. It is less likely that this surface is bunged up. Place the rounded side against the oil pan because it will mate up better to any irregularities in the surface.

 

Just a little extra support. HAHAHAHA