You didn't see the trout grandpa caught? Huge!!! I never showed you my vacation pics from the beach last year either did I?
Here's a chip extender. With two and these (and cables at the same site) you can move the ECU chip socket from inside to outside of the Motronic ECU boxes, allowing you to swap chips without taking each Motronic ECU apart each time: http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=172
ND, I don't know how far you've looked into the TPS chips, but the M2.5 ones I have actually have differences in the code as well as the maps from stock. I assume they are good as the car they came out of was running, although I use that term loosely. I am not too keen on using them in my car as I can't actually work out (yet) what the code differences will yield. Dave
Have you downloaded an 8051 disassembler and simulator yet? They're free and on Google... (I did a thread on a TPS chip for M2.7 that had code changes, but it turned out to be a bad chip)
I was looking for a chip extender. I figured that there had to be a better way than opening up each Motronic ECU box everytime I wanted to change chips. And I found it (see link above). But while looking for that extender, I found the Ostrich at the same company...which allows you to program your Motronic 2.7 and 2.5 via your laptop. The Ostrich has flash memory. So your laptop downloads your chip image to the Ostrich. Then the Ostrich emulates your chip; it physically plugs into the chip slot in our Motronic ECUs. So with two Ostrich's, you could program your 348 while you were running on a dyno...or driving around town, for that matter. Of course, the cheaper solution is their chip extender. That way you just insert whatever chip you want (e.g. stock for street driving and a race chip for the track), whenever you want, without having to open up the Motronic boxes for every change. They also have a chip doubler; you put two "256" chip images onto one "512" chip, and a ground switch flips between the two maps (then the old Motronic ecu just "sees" one selected image)...clever, but I prefer the chip extender or Ostrich.
Correct. The wideband O2 sensor replaces the stock O2 sensor (narrow band), and the LM1 gets the full signal from the wideband O2 sensor for display inside the cockpit while sending the narrow band "interpretation" of that signal back into the existing vehicle O2 wiring as if you still had the original narrowband O2 sensor installed. So no cutting. No welding. Just some wire splicing.
