Bosch part # "0 280 213 012" is Ferrari 355 M2.7 part #154916 This is also found on the 1991-93 Saab 9000 B234 Turbo Bosch part # "0 280 212 018" is Ferrari 348/Mondial t M2.7 & M2.5 part #136374 SAAB pn: 78 72 393 SAAB pn: 88 27 453 SAAB 9000 16v Turbo CD (1990?) MAF rebuilders: Python Fuel Injection Corp BBA-REMAN Direct Auto: http://www.directautomotiveproducts.com/afmacv.html ================================================================ Our MAFs are expensive components. They are also important for precise engine operations at all temperatures and speeds. MAFs are wear components (OK, Bosch claims otherwise, go figure). Eventually they will have to be replaced (expensive!) or rebuilt. Shown below are the MAF locations for the 348 (Mondial t is similar) and 355 M2.7 versions...part #'s 9 & 6 respectively. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
To repair a Bosch MAF, first remove the silicon seal from around the top of the black plastic circuit cover. Image Unavailable, Please Login
With the top covers removed, an older Bosch MAF circuit is shown next to, but facing the opposite direction from, a Ferrari 348 MAF: *note: the older MAF has no MAF resistance adjustment screw, but sports the same microprocessor circuitry internally...and has the 3 internal connections (unused), for the variable resistance pot. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Interchanging parts from cheaper Bosch MAFs to our more expensive MAFs may be possible for quick repairs, however, you have to mach the MAF signal curves. I'm aware of 4 different MAF curves (shown below). If you have a working donor MAF with the correct signal curve, then you should be able to move it from your donor MAF over to your Ferrari 348/355/Mondial t MAF. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The 348/Mondial t MAF screw turns the internal adjustment bezel on the blue resistance pot. 348 MAF's are factory set initially at 383 Ohms resistance each. You can adjust their resistance (this resistance can be measured with the engine off by connecting an Ohm-meter to the outermost metal pins, number 1 and number 6, on the data connection) to or from this value via the MAF screw beneath a disposable blue/silver cap on each MAF sensor. Adjusting the MAF resistance value will change your Air/Fuel mixture setting. Turning this MAF screw clockwise with a flat-blade screwdriver increases resistance and leans your air to fuel mixture ratio. Conversely, turning the MAF screw counter-clockwise enriches your fuel/air mixture and **DECREASES** the resistance value that is measured between the outermost pins (i.e. pins #1 and #6). The lower the resistance, the richer the mixture.
383 ohms is the Ferrari factory preset value for the 348 and Mondial t, but this is more ideal for fuel economy and emissions testing. I consider 383 ohms to be on the lean side. If your mixture is too rich or too lean, then your ECU's will set off one or more trouble codes. As a general rule of thumb, both MAF's should also have identical resistance values, regardless of your preferred resistance value setting (typically close to the factory pre-set 383 Ohms).
Excellent thread and information, thanks! I've had two MAFs pack up on me (different cars) but that can leave you dead in the water. Good idea to keep a (relatively) cheap used unit at the ready - nothing like scrambling to get one, though of course if your F is a secondary car it's not the end of the world to park it for a few days.
It's close enough, but bear in mind that 383 ohms is already running a bit on the lean side for better emissions. So it wouldn't hurt to have a slightly smaller number.
Mine popped out (OK, I sort of helped them with some long nose pliers), but some need to be drilled, then insert a screw, turn, and yank.
Got them out. Does anyone have a chart for adjusting the mixture? What number would be desired for typical street use? I figure that running a little richer would be ok, but what number does that correspond to on the MAFS.....380? I guess the only way to truely know would be to put in on a gas analyzer to be sure. Thoughts?
From personal experience, 375 ohms to 380 ohms is absolutely safe for a stock 348. 370 may be a little rich for some, however.
Stock setting is 383. This thread has some pics for you. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142114
Sweet... I am going to remove the cats and muffler soon to install the race setup I bough from you. So I could probably go righer after I get the cats off.... At least I think so... LOL... I'll set at 380 for now and see how it goes.
ND, have you got a replacement circuit board suggestion? Mine smoked up. I tried to buy a 0280 212 017 as suggested on the 348 primer, but this did not work (known hood unit, set to 383 but acted as if the MAF wasn't even plugged in). If I disconnect the MAF then the engine bank shuts down (I thought there was a limp-home mode). I can't find a - 018 (original Ferrari MAF) to save my life anywhere less than $450 for new. Do you know if there is another MAF one can use instead? 383 Ohm is for the cat US model cars right. I have a stock non cat and at a dyno the MAF setting to give the CO and HC output as listed in the owner's manual was 342 OHM - Ernie, says this is MADLY rich, how much is very rich a few ohms less or a few 10's of ohms less? The plugs came out looking quite clean, with the heat band 1/2 up the strap, the electrode and insulator are slightly grey and the plug a dark brown/black - not sooty at all. The exhaust looks a little on the dark side of dark grey, but not sooted out... Marco
Marco, Did you try the Saab part numbers through Saab dealers/suppliers? That might help avoid the Ferrari tax.
Here's Marco's cool 348 MAF repair thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=137812643