I have a 85 QV GTB. Last year I had the rear calipers redone completely. After mounting them back, the handbrake just won't work. It hardly brakes at all. Anyone knows how to solve this? Or do all 308's have this problem?
Do we assume that you set the gap between the brake pad and the rotor? Also did you adjust the cable so that it pulls the handbrake levers on the calipers when the brake handle is half way up. Who rebuilt the calipers. Did they also rebuild the handbrake portion and are they dry (not leaking). The handbrakes on these cars are fair and should hold the car on a slight grade. Also if you remove the caliper you should be able to move the lever by hand and watch the brake pads move out. If not then there is a problem with the handbrake mechanism in the caliper. My 2 cents
I also am frustrated by my inability to achieve reasonable parking brake friction on my US 85 308. I think I have tried most every suggestion on this site. I am able to adjust the clearances and the arm does apply pressure on both calipers. I have adjusted carefully such that when I just first start to engage the hand brake there is drag on both wheels. But when the handle is at its full up position, that drag is just not sufficient to hold the car on a reasonable grade. I feel that if I could just continue the application of the hand brake farther, the result would be a good holding action. In other words, if I could change the amount of cable pull per degree of hand brake action I think the handbrake would work, but I don't know how to do that. By adjusting the turnbuckle too tight, I can get the barkes to hold, but when the handle is released they do no release completely and would heat up the rotors should I drive like that. Maybe I'll figure it out some day. Russ
I have had my 308 since 1999. It has never really worked on an incline. Kind of a pain when I pull out of the driveway and want to get something from the house before I go...I can't just put on the parking brake...I have to turn the car off and keep it in gear. Oh well, never been that big of an issue to me.
IIRCC, the rear ebrakes only press the inboard pads against the two calipers. Make sure the outboard pads are adjusted to the same clearance using a feeler gauge (make sure your handle is down). After that, maybe replace the cables as they may be frayed and/or stretching from tension due to old age.
Absolutely correct - legendary fault - in the uk for the annual test one used to have to effectively lock it on round the corner and loosen it off before driving home And yes a few people here say they have got theirs to work eventually
The same system was used by Fiat and Lancia (at least in that era). Brand new and on a good day they barely seemed to do the job.
Except that Fiat/Lancia used a push/pull sliding calliper which meant it pushed the inner pad on then pulled the calliper across and pulled the outer pad on - also self adjusting - shame they didn't use this type on the Ferrari. Just rebuilt my GT4 after a seal leak and I can't see how they wouldn't operate as when new really as there's not much to go wrong and mine had little sign of wear, so I guess it's down to clearance adjustment and other components like the cables. Lee '77 GT4 (rebuilt many Fiat rear callipers over the years!)
My experience, too, was that it worked OKish after a fresh adjustment but often needed readjustment at the caliper (not so much in the cables). Here's Ric Rainbolt's written description for adjustment (but, with a little experience, you don't really need to get all that fussy with the feeler gauges IMO -- nor can you on a slightly grooved rotor): Image Unavailable, Please Login
Many thx to you all for such great info. I am gonna give it another good try with all your advice! Many thx again.
Possibly brake fluid leaked and saturated the hand brake shoes and drum while doing the caliper job? Pull your rotors and inspect...very easy to do.
IIRC, 328 cars use separate little brake shoes inside the rotor, but the 308 series uses a ratcheting mechanism on the caliper piston. -Steve
In the state of Virginia the state safety inspection handbook provides the following standard which applies to my 1985 308: Is that achievable?
Only if you jam an iron bar between the rim spokes & the A-arms. My calipers have been rebuilt & extensively adjusted. The parking break just doesn't hold on any incline. Kudos to those who have been able to get it to stay. Not mine though.
After rebuilding just my right rear caliper AND cleaning/adjusting that side's ebrake components while I had it apart, mine holds on a 8% grade just fine. Have not tried it on anything steeper yet though. I may try that high-idle/in-gear test too to see how much it actually will hold. These pictures are examples of mine showing most of the critical ebrake components that need to be working PERFECTLY for the ebrake to be at all effective. Also, ALL rear disk pad to rotor surface clearances (both sides-both rear rotors) are critial and should be adjusted to specs - IMO. Later this Spring I plan to rebuild the remaining three calipers so I know the overall condition of my system personally. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have seen several after-market brake "Upgrades" advertised, do any of those address the hand brake problem? Do the hand brakes on a 328 work better? Are they interchangeable?
The parking brake on my 328 works well. As for converting a 308, the answer is, practically speaking, no. Too many parts to change over, including the entire rear hub. -Steve
Having parking brake shoes in the drum portion of the rear brake discs (like on the 328 and many other vehicles) works much, MUCH better than the system which squeezes the normal brake pads against the disc. This is my experience anyway, having had a number of cars with both types of systems. Can't answer your other questions with certainty but I would guess "no" on both counts.
