Carb Mondial update - a bit technical.

But please, for Gods sake man, don't cover up those carbs.

 

There is always the individual filter option; or braze some wire mesh over the top, but I do want some protection...

 

but are you going to do anything with the headers? Like Jet-Hot?

I love the chrome look, but will they discolor after some time?


Pizzaman

 

Those are not chrome - they are indeed ceramic coated Tubi European 3.2 headers. With time I am told the ceramic does darken a bit.

 

It's looks really nice! I can't wait to hear what you think of it and more important see the dyno results to see how your hard work paid off. When do you think it will be running, a couple days?

 

Looking for end of the week start-up with an initial dyno the following week. I do stress the 'initial dyno' as it has been my experience to slowly find a bit more as time goes by. I also am not sure if I need to be careful seating the rings and all and what that effect is. Moreso than the apogee of the curve (although also important) I am really interested in the shape as I mostly live 2750 - 5500 on a day to day basis.

Here's hopin' it all works! It's a bit more iffy than turning up boost.

Many thanks to Mark for all of his great support on this!

 

Russ,

Nice headers!! Did they come coated like that from tubi, or did you have them coated?

May I ask where to get them and what they charge for a set?

Mine have cracked (rear header became a 3 + 1). Got everything welded back up, but suspect it may not last a lifetime before it will crack again. So new headers are in my not too distant future..

Thanks!!!

Hans

 

Hans
Thanks - the headers came uncoated, and they were ceramic coated locally. Here in the US, the headers are special order only (and reluctantly it seems) with our suck-egg economy quite molto caro. I think you would have much better luck in the EU with availability and price. There is a tubi website with dealers. I cannot recommend the Larini headers, as I found them less good than the stock, but it seems Tubi does not disappoint, despite the high price.
best
Russ

 

Will be back in the car soon.

One thing that I really like is that we are removing a lot of wiring, such as the flywheel sensors, Microplex ECU, etc. Without all of this unused cabling, the whole engine and bay really cleans up and simplifies.

You can also see the high torque Gustafson starter, with that lifetime guarantee!

Another personal benefit to me is the amount of space there is to work on the engine now is also amazing - much more than an injected car and WAY more room than a 308/328.

As always, best goes to James and the great guys at Norwoods.
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A/C, accessories mounted and engine back in the car.
For folks unfamiliar with the earlier ignition swap, after THREE single bank ignition failures I wanted the most reliable ignition available, so an electronic Mallory Unilite single flat cap distributor with an MSD 6AL box and MSD hot coil was fitted - FIVE YEARS of reliable starting so far. Nothing fancy, but inexpensive, simple to do and reliable and works quite well. You can see the system in the photos. Not sure what the new car will take, but I was running the book recommended 34 degrees by 3500 rpm. I do have to run a hotter plug than with the K-jetronic, and it all works well.

The carbs are off for the motor installation, and will be going on with an improved center-pull linkage. You can also see the starter heat shield in the pre-installation photos.

For street use will use a variant of the stock carb air box with a very large KN cone filter that projects into the opened up starboard side air scoop. Cool air blown on the filter that is not used flows down the "V" of the engine to somewhat cool the Webers.

Without the K-jetronic, notice how (relatively) roomy the engine bay is.
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Russ,

It looks nice.

BAD TO THE BONE - AND PRETTY TOO.

I really want a ride, failing that, a look at the corrected dyno sheet would boost my spirits.

Mine is kind of an oil dripping hog, but it sure runs nice and handles well.

Keep posting photos and details,

chris

 

What can i say. I just can't stay away from this thread.


Russ is "The Man"

What a beautiful looking motor. I think i'm going to put that as my wallpaper.

 

You guys are too nice.
We'll try to get an initial dyno, then I will go tweak it for a while and we will get another a while later. If this goes like the initial carb installation, it takes a little bit for those last several ponies to be brought in. Lots of help and encouragement from great folks here at FChat, especially Mark E. (who has seen the light and gone to NA); And many thanks to Tate Casey at Carobu, Laurie at Webcam and the team at Norwoods.

 

In the previous linkage set up, it was a side pull on the starboard carbs which then turned their neighbors portside. While this worked well for 5 years, I knew eventually it might lead to twisting of the starboard carb butterfly shafts resulting in a slight progressiveness of the throttle openings. So, Norwoods is mounting a center pull throttle mechanism which prevents butterfly shaft twisting and gives a nice equal and smooth opening. It's much like the stock 308 arrangement, except rotated 90 degrees. The cable also pulls straight onto a pulley, reducing wear. The picture shows where James did a nice job welding a pedastal on the water crossover.

On an unrelated note, the water hoses, especially the long ones to the front, are being replaced with silicone.

The engine may actually start this week or next.
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As we close in on our Friday start-up date, the muffler is going in. The original plan was to make it as free flowing yet as quiet as possible. Now that it is in, it seems like perhaps that it may be too much.The weight is not so bad at 32 pounds, but intuitively it does seem like a lot of muffler. I take this car on very long trips so it can't be very loud. I am thinking about halving the muffler and just using two cans in series

Taking part inspiration from the TWM throttle body thread, the Heim joint center linkage worked out well.
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It's looking good.

I think you're going to like the muffler set-up as is...and aleast you only need 2. I also perfer a relatively quiet exhaust but have been avoiding even thinking about how fit 4 big mufflers on mine.....luckly my engine is still a year from done

 

Thanks - it's all coming together.
Forr the 4 guys still following this thread: James says he can stuff it all back there. I am amazed it is only 32 pounds, but the cans are pretty small and mostly air and stuffing held by s/s. I looked around at weights for other Ferrari exhausts, and it is much lighter than the V-12 systems and a little lighter than the stock mufflers, but not as light as the minimalist Tubi. It looks heavy I guess because it is stuffed in a TINY space - the 348s and later have much more room. Greg Calo and the guy from Harmony, both who do exhausts for a living, also said to go w/ the current set up if it fits.

I think we are going to start it Friday - I am planning to go up with my LM-2 and do some initial A/F to see where we are, which I hope is a tad rich.
I think the order will be:

1. Set the idle advance
2. synch the carbs (intra carb, intra bank, bank to bank)
3. Set initial max advance at 32 - 34 degrees
4. Ensure accel jets work well
5. Set Idle
6. Set Main
7. Set A/c
8. Determine if exhaust is ok (sound, hotspots, vibration, cracks), then ceramic coat exhaust
9. Rough initial dyno - my experience is we'll come in at 85%+ of best final number; Most attention here is focused on advance safety
10. Drive and map A/F on the road to fine tune
11. Dyno

Hope this all works - I was realizing looking at some other threads that really nothing done to the car is actually very radical or out of the ordinary, just meat and potatoes basic old school tweaking that you might do at any rebuild. Certainly mundane compared to the EFI/supercharger crowd and not like putting TR heads on a 412...

 

nice linkage setup Russ. you are going to like the heim joint adjustability and preciseness.......cool mufflers too

 

Slight delay
Norwoods is ordering some special mandrel bends for the exhaust, so start is probably delayed a few days. In the interim he will be doing the blending into the muffler boxes. The goal is to have very smooth and blended transitions andd turns. After the exhaust is mounted, we will do a sound check, and if ok, will ceramic coat the whole installation.
Each bank exits via a set of tubi headers into a collector for each separate side. Thecollector then splits into two pipes going through two dual in/dual out Magnaflow 11 x 4 x 9 mufflers, giving a total silencing volume per side of 632 cu. in, or a total of 1264 cubic inches total. Each dual out pipe terminates in a 3" OD resonated chrome tip. Very simple in theory, a bit tougher to execute. It is actually much like a 275 GT system folded twice.
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Well, after a lot of hand fitting, discretion was determined to be the better part of valor and the exhaust is back to the 'two can' plan which experiments with the concepts of resonant silencing, counterflow and alternating pulse silencing. It will also be about 16 pounds lighter and a bit higher velocity. The plumbing in the back became a bit restrictive with the 4 can due to turns and all, so on to the simpler backup plan. Here's hoping this works!
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Another slight, but aesthetically and functionally improved addition I think. To get the low resistance gentle pipe curves in the system, we've decided to bring the exhaust out a bit wider than the Americam grill holes. This will allow a bit longer resonance path and less resistance to flow, in addition to being more straightforward to build and install.ergo, it might just look better, sound better and flow better...or not. Here's hopin'...
Photos tomorrow.
Here is a photochop of before and after to give the idea:
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But Russ, what will i do when you finally finish and she's all done??

 

Drive it almost every day.
Take some very long trips, perhaps out to Concourso.

 

Russ,
Quit screwing around with the exhasut and drive it already!

I'm dying to hear how it runs