It's coming along nice, keep up the good work.
So on my original question... Anybody know if the center flywheel plates are marked for balance at all? Without looking closely, it seems they either have to go in one way, or 180deg. the other way, since the springs are different sizes and the assembly probably can't be installed at the 90 or 270 deg. position. Thanks.
Hey Rick, While you have your engine out, you may want to look closely at your cam drive gear and make sure the fences are on tight. May want to spot weld them on while you have everything apart... take a look here http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=137615396&postcount=145 DF
Make sure your belt tensioner has been updated and check the belt pulleys and the bearing on the pulleys. All three of those were shot on my car. Scroll to the bottom of page 1 of my 30K out thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165449
Thanks Eric. Interesting you bring up the oil pump tensioner... When I purchased the car in January, I had records of majors in 2000 and 2005. But no record that either that tensioner, cambelt tensioners, or water pump had ever been done. So I do plan to check all those, and already have cambelt tensioners from Ricambi. I hadn't been too concerned about the bearing, but will definitely check it while I have the covers off. BTW - on the pulleys, did you just have bending or deflection of the pulley edges, or was there cracking? I seemed to recall some discussion of the pulleys on other threads, but definitely appreciate the headsup
The edges were bent not cracked, but the worst part was that the bearing was shot and the pulley wobbled along the perpendicular axis to the back plate where it is attached. It was just a matter of time before the belt got loose.
BTW .... When buying my car in January, the PPI showed that my leakdowns were mostly 3-4% with 1 or two up to 5% So I seem to be in good shape there!
Been a while since I posted pics. Here are pics showing my clutch (worse than I thought from PPI), and flywheel repack. Everything went pretty smoothly. I'll post discussion and pics re: my flywheel and new clutch in the next note. I thought about getting the disks relined and the clutch plates resurfaced, but decided to go with a new one. On the Voich flywheel, I'm estimating I used around 220-230 grams after losses (grease on fingers, etc.). However, hard to say for sure, since the wheel didn't quite seat all the way in the first time, and I had to take it back apart and reseat it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Daniel at Ricambi asked to see my old clutch pics, and folks at Ricambi said "That clutch is a goner". Reconfirmed that I wanted to just get a new one. Ricambi had one in stock, and GT Car Parts beat their price, and then Ferrparts quoted me a Smokin' Deal!! Not sure how they did so good on price, but they included it in a shipment they were making from Europe. REALLY convinced me to just replace the clutch!! Dual Disk... new factory AP ... see pics. Clutch has "blue stroke" (per WSM) balance mark, and disk heavy marks "H" on both disks. Also included the factory setup height and data printout... The disks are not marked "asbestos-free"; not sure if they still do that, and I imagine it's now a standard.... can anyone confirm? A friend advised me to try Clutch Dr. locally to get the flywheel plate resurfaced, and they did a great job. Waiting for a couple seals from Ricambi, and then it'll go back together this week. On to the half-shafts!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks. Actually, the Lambo has been a project for over 10 years, and I haven't made any progress in many years. My first chore is to see how much more bodywork I can do myself. Did replace the bottom of the passenger door already, and a bit of rust repair underneath. Planned to get it it this year, but my purchase of the 348 delayed that!
Rick, wow. Very cool. I would think the bodywork on the Lambo would be the easy part. Finding parts for that car is probably another story... Do you have a lot of the parts? Any more pics?
The car was complete when I bought it in 1992, but had more body damage and rust than I expected when I stripped it. The drip rails on each side were basically gone, so I will have to find someone who can help me get those profiles so I can (hopefully) make new ones. A few parts are very hard or impossible to find, but most basic parts can be found.
She'll be worth the effort. If it helps, I know an incredible metal fabricator right here in PHX that might be able to help..
See pics below: Things moving fairly slowly right now. After receiving a new dual-disc clutch from Ferrparts, I debated on how best to assemble the clutch. Hill Engr. has an alignment tool, but as I recall, it's only intended for the single-disc clutch. Also cheaper plastic one on ebay, that might work, but not sure. I recall seeing a thread in which someone, I think Fat Billy Bob, said he assembled his on the car.. I thought I'd give that a try. Challenge is keeping assembly on splines, while having enough room to get to the cap screws in back to tighten the assembly. The stock cap screws are not long enough to compress everything, so I decided to get some 8 X 1.25 X 65mm cap screws, around 1/4" longer than stock. I installed 2 of these at 180deg, and installed everything on the gearbox output shaft. Was able to slide everything out far enough to keep it all on the splines, with just enough room to access one cap screw through the starter hole, and the other through the lower vent hole. The 65mm screws were long enough to allow me to tighten the assembly enough to keep everything in place, without bottoming too soon in the flywheel holes. I then was able to remove the assembly and install the stock bolts... of course I did all this without the slave/throwout bearing in place. Wasn't really easy, but it did work, but took me about 3 tries, since a couple times I slid the clutch too far out before getting things tight. I thought this might be of some help to some other owners. I've also shown a couple pics of my servo/throwout brg. assembly. This assembly is all iron/steel, and I rec'd 2 new seals from Ricambi. The small one was fine, but the larger one was not think enough to fill the groove. Daniel is thinking the different P/N listed on the '93 diagram may work, and is checking for me. Any other experience with this large diameter/thick seal? Not sure the one that came out was original... it fit fine, but was more like a crank oil seal, with groove in the back for the circumferential spring (but no spring in it). Any Thoughts????? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just for the record http://www.hillengineering.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=16_33&products_id=95 Will work on both single & dual plate clutches! Paul
Still making progress, although it got up to 110degF today here in the Phoenix area, so I only about 2hrs in the garage today. Triple seals... I bought new ones from Ricambi, and installed them. I saw some posts about heating them up in boiling water to expand them. I tried this for about 20min and checked dimensions with a dial caliper before and after. No expansion.... None... doesn't work. So I covered a magazine subscription card with wide scotch tape, wrapped it around the shaft, and just worked them over the shaft. Of course, they then wouldn't shrink back down, as several threads have noted. I didn't like the idea of forcing the inner shaft in with a mallet... was afraid the seals would get damaged. So I decided to wrap some thin cardboard (like on a Fedex envelope) around the seals, and used a pipe clamp to carefully squeeze them down. Worked pretty well! You do have to be careful that the cardboard is wrapped tightly so that it will not bunch up and kink the seals, and do it carefully. I did this seal by seal, not all at once. Shaft pushed in normally without need for any hammering. Also finished installing the clutch (except for the ringnut cover). I didn't want to use an impact wrench to tighten the ringnut, and also didn't like the idea of trying to tighten it on the gearbox. So I put together the attached setup to torque the nut up to the req'd 140 ft-lbs. Also used the ring-gear block, per the pic I posted above. At high torques, the Hill Engr. nut socket kept trying to climb off of the nut, so I had to use both hands on the torque wrench. This Rube-Goldberg setup worked like a champ! The gray bar is from a benchtop sheet metal bender I've never used. I have 3 of the CV joints back together, although I still need to tighten the cover clamps better. I won't put the half-shafts back on until I am finished cleaning things up and re-painting the frame in these areas. I used Valvoline Durablend moly-fortified synthetic grease on these. This grease is intended for CV joints, among other things. Found it at Autozone. Also, I removed the exhaust air-injection system. Mine was very noisy, and actually knocked and rattled a lot until the coolant warmed up enough for it to shut off. I decided the cleanest thing would be to just plug the exhaust ports, but finding 16mm X 1.5 plugs or even cap screws was very difficult online (and I tried the usual places such as Fastenal). I finally found 2 things... first was socket head cap screws from McMaster-Carr. These were pretty inexpensive, but I would have to shorten them a lot (shortest were 40mm length). Then I also found some hydraulic plugs at Discount Hydraulic Hose online. These were steel with anti-corrosive coating. These fit very well and should work great with use of a crush washer. See pics.... Next I'll be removing valve covers, and doing initial valve timing checks, and doing my own leakdown test to get my own baseline. I purchased a used Moroso tester on Ebay, and although the PPI leakdown and compression looked great, I want to get my own baseline with my tester for future reference. Also want to verify my valve timing methods before taking things apart! PS - Daniel at Ricambi came through on the servo seal that didn't fit as posted above. 139436 was not thick enough to fit the groove, but 151822 was a match for what I had originally. Weird seal... looks more like a shaft end seal rather than a groove seal. Anyway... it fits! Thanks Daniel!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
