Shock Absorber Malfunction Light - F355 | FerrariChat

Shock Absorber Malfunction Light - F355

Discussion in '348/355' started by RossoCorsaItaly, May 25, 2008.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. RossoCorsaItaly

    RossoCorsaItaly F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jun 9, 2004
    4,679
    LA & OKC
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    Mine just came on, car is driving fine and I'll have it up on a lift in about 600 miles.

    The light has come on before and then just went off, this time it seems to be staying on.

    Possibility it's just a fluke or if it stays on do I really need to stop driving the car?
     
  2. gothspeed

    gothspeed F1 World Champ

    May 26, 2006
    10,244
    U.S.A.
    Full Name:
    goth
    You can still drive your car, I just wouldn't do it for much longer. I think that pesky little gear on top of the shock has cracked like on so many other 355s :(.

    Daniel and Dave a Ricambi have the fix ..... :)
     
  3. 285ferrari

    285ferrari Two Time F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Sep 11, 2004
    20,950
    MD and NE
    Full Name:
    Robbie
    Mine came on the day at startup and stayed on for about 5 minutes, then went off...
     
  4. RossoCorsaItaly

    RossoCorsaItaly F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jun 9, 2004
    4,679
    LA & OKC
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    Yeah, it came on right after I took the off-ramp at about 90mph (recommended speed 35mph).

    I think I'm going to continue driving the car around and call Daniel on Tuesday.
     
  5. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,031
    USA
    If your speedometer is working, then the first thing to check is to remove each actuator on the top of each shock and inspect them. Look at the plastic gear on the top of the shock, and ensure it is in serviceable condition. Check the mating surface of the actuator with the gear. Reinstall, and secure with the wire clip carefully, and treat the electrical connector with Stabilant 22A.

    If any of the gears are damaged or suspect, order replacements from Daniel at Ricambi ($30 each).
     
  6. MRONY

    MRONY Formula Junior

    Mar 17, 2007
    707
    New York City
    Full Name:
    Mike O.
    Seems like 355 has it right to me... I had the exact same issue, and it was the cracked gear on top of a shock. Hope it's one of the rears, they are easy to access. If you look for my threads about it, they are easy as pie to replace(I mean it, anyone can do it, only the part about getting the retaining pin back in is even vaguely hard.)

    Ricambi has the replacement gear for $30. If you want more info, PM me. BTW, the dealer wanted $3500 to fix it -- said they could not source a replacement part anywhere& had to buy a set of new shocks & install. 99% of FCar owners probably would have paid it. Cost me $30 + shipping.

    If it turns out not to be the gear but an actuator, I have an extra one I bought just in case. You can have it at my cost if you want it.

    Anything else... good luck!!
     
  7. ferrariwalla355

    Sep 4, 2004
    40
    Austin, TX
    I have the same problem with my 1999 F355 F1. Would you mind posting more info (Ricambi part number, etc.)? The idea of saving money is great but am not very handy so any tips would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
     
  8. MRONY

    MRONY Formula Junior

    Mar 17, 2007
    707
    New York City
    Full Name:
    Mike O.
    #9 MRONY, May 27, 2008
    Last edited: May 27, 2008
    Under the engine cover there are two round red shock actuators, one on each side of the bay. They are showing through cutouts in a shroud. The first step is to remove the shrouds, which are attached by two hex bolts, one at the rear, and one at the middle (there may be a third at the front, but mine were not installed.) Once those bolts are off, release the actuator control wire from the white plastic guide, and the shroud should come out pretty easy, though they are kind of wedged under the lip.

    Once the shroud is off, I would first check each actuator to see if it is working. (You need someone to start the car to do this while you are looking at the actuator.) First, remove the actuator by pulling back the locking clip that is at the base. Note how it goes back in, seating in the two grooves on the sides of the actuator. Once it is off, you can remove the red actuator body by pulling straight up. If there is not enough slack in the wire, you have to unscrew the retaining clip that mounts to the side of the bay. With the actuator off, have someone start the car, and watch the interior gear. if it spins, just as the car starts, it is working. Now, examine the small chrome-colored gear sticking up out of the top of the shock. See if it has any teeth missing, or is cracked or deformed. If it is, that's your culprit. If it is not, you can check the other one now. Same procedure.

    If the gear is broken, you need to order one from Ricambi. They are $30, and readily available on the website (see above).

    To replace the gear:

    First, you must remove the tiny locking pin that is seated in the small hole on the side of the gear. This requires a small wire nail or driver. REALLY small. I simply tapped the pin out with a small hammer and a wire brad. DO NOT LOSE the pin. I put a piece of white tape on the other side to catch it JIC. I am told the replacement pin from Ricambi is too long, and it does look a couple thousandths longer than the OEM. Once the pin is out, the gear will pop right off.

    Now, get a 2" or so long needle -- a sewing needle--- or a tailor's needle is better - one with the pearl or plastic ball on one end so it won't just fall through the hole.

    Line up the holes in the replacement gear with the hole in the shock shaft. I used a small flashlight behind the hole to make it easy to see when they were lined up exactly. Pass the needle through the hole. Now, take the old locking pin and slide it onto the shaft of the needle.Slide it down until it lines up with the holes. You may be able to get it seated by hand. I had to retract the needle a bit then tap the pin with a small hammer to get it started in the hole. Once it was in enough to hold itself, I used a pliers with flat jaws to squeeze the pin in the rest of the way -- using the back of the gear for puchase and slowly working it in. If you can get enough room to use the hamer, you could probably just tap in in, though an off center strike could send the pin flying. WARNING - getting the pin in can be pretty frustrating. I tried 10 other methods for about an hour before I tried this way. It worked the first time! If you drop the pin, I suggest having a magnet probe handy to find it on the floor -- it's really tiny.

    Once the gear is on and the pin in place, put the actuator cap back on, replace the locking clip. Give a gentle tug to make sure it's locked in. remount the wires. If you're feeling lucky, replace the shroud (or do it after you're sure the problem is solved!) Now, start the car. The light will still be on. I took mine for a 1/4 mile drive, and cycled the sport/comfort setting a couple of times (light stayed on). Turned it off. Restarted, and the light stayed OFF. I believe the system rotates each actuator independently when the car is started, so it takes a couple cycles to get them synced. I'm not sure changing the setting did anything, but I couldn't resist trying.

    GOOD LUCK!!

    PS: I ordered a couple of gears, just in case another one goes. Seems to be common.
     
  9. gothspeed

    gothspeed F1 World Champ

    May 26, 2006
    10,244
    U.S.A.
    Full Name:
    goth
    Fantastic post Mike :)!!!!
     
  10. 285ferrari

    285ferrari Two Time F1 World Champ
    Sponsor

    Sep 11, 2004
    20,950
    MD and NE
    Full Name:
    Robbie
    Excellent writeup--I will take a look at mine very soon...
     
  11. 0.0.1.99

    0.0.1.99 Formula Junior

    Jan 14, 2012
    424
    Carolinas
    Full Name:
    Ken
    #12 0.0.1.99, Aug 17, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  12. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
    Sponsor Owner

    Ken - This is a great photo! May I use it on our website, and in exchange provide the SAG355 from your weekend order at no cost?
     
  13. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    I had a problem where the plastic gear was broken inside the actuator. I resolved this by sending it to Captain Z's (Corvette fx3 shock actuator rebuilding and repair) to be rebuilt. They replace the internal plastic gears with metal ones. I believe there is also a Corvette equivalent to the F355 shock actuator.

    - Tom
     
  14. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
    BANNED

    Nov 23, 2012
    16,047
    Orchard Park, NY
    Full Name:
    Dave Lelonek
    That's a nice offer Daniel.
     
  15. 0.0.1.99

    0.0.1.99 Formula Junior

    Jan 14, 2012
    424
    Carolinas
    Full Name:
    Ken
    #16 0.0.1.99, Aug 18, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Daniel - that would be awesome if you threw my photo up on Ricambi! What a generous offer...

    And Tom, you are exactly right, that internal plastic reciever gear inside the actuator was broken as well. It's already packed and ready to ship to CaptainZ. I hope that in the next year or two, 3d scanners & printers may provide some of these tiny parts that can cause large bills.

    I checked all other actuators and this was the only one with issues. Getting the clip back into the passenger side front actuator is a PITA.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  16. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    Just note that the actuator will have a white plastic ring around it when you get it back. They have to cut it open to get to the gears inside and then glue it back together with a plastic ring on the outside. It works great, but if you want a stock look, you will have to replace the actuator with a new one. Another option is just to switch it with a front actuator which is not visible.
     
  17. paulchua

    paulchua Cat Herder
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 1, 2013
    16,375
    Menlo Park, CA
    Full Name:
    Paul Chua

    I have a bunch of actuators I plan to send to CaptianZ but had a quick question. The units seem to be attached by this grey/white clip. They seem to be single-use. Do you know what the procedure is to remove them? Or buy replacements?

    Cheers
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  18. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    13,918
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    The units are held on with metal spring clips.... or are you talking about some kind of cable tie?

    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    paulchua likes this.
  19. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    13,918
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
  20. paulchua

    paulchua Cat Herder
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 1, 2013
    16,375
    Menlo Park, CA
    Full Name:
    Paul Chua
    Th
    Thanks for chiming in! It seems to be like a plastic clip/pin , I’ll take a better picture. I guess I can just bend it and pull it out, it looks like doing so would make it lose is firmness.
     
    Qavion likes this.
  21. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    13,918
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
  22. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,031
    USA
    The plastic clip you are speaking of just pulls out. And you slide it back in when reinstalling. I have never seen a source for them, so be careful not to break them.
     
    paulchua and Qavion like this.
  23. paulchua

    paulchua Cat Herder
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 1, 2013
    16,375
    Menlo Park, CA
    Full Name:
    Paul Chua
    Great, thank you so much!

    I appreciate you.

    Cheers
     
  24. radback

    radback Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 14, 2020
    712
    France
    Very informative thread, but it’s missing info about accessing to the front actuators…
     

Share This Page