Good technique on the triple seals, I tried something similar but didn't get it to work. I'm printing this tip out for next time!
Thanks for the feedback, Jay - I'm posting this stuff so that hopefully Brothers can benefit from what works, or even what doesn't work for me. As long as some Brothers still are interested in seeing how I'm doing, I'll continue to post. If I don't get any real feedback, I may decide to give up on the effort, though. What I should probably do is post these items separately, each under a different thread, so that anyone searching for a given topic can take a look at what I have, in case they're interested.
Keep on posting! These threads don't always get tons of feedback, but they're an invaluable resource. I'm doing the same thing in my engine out thread...although I've had little to report on in the past month. When I'm looking to do something to the car I always search and print out the good threads, but don't always leave feedback (sometimes they're a year old or more).
I'd keep all the info in this thread. It is handy for a future reference when someone wants to do a full major service. It is easy to skip items that are not going to be done. Good work. The old FedEx envelope trick, 'eh??? BT
Thanks Bill - Yes, I'll plan to keep all in this thread, but will enter a new title for each specific subject, so that it's easier for someone to find in a search. At least I think that will help in a search. I also have some transaxle pics (ring-gear nut topic) that I had posted in another thread that someone started, and I'll add those here.
I have used Orings instead of the seals for 3800 miles without an issue , greased 'em going on & no problems . My thoughts are , the seals always fail,every time , so why not try another aproach.........Pole jacks???
O-Rings are a good option to consider, especially if they're working for you! Do you remember what size you used?
Really?? Never thought of doing it that way. If it works for you, then I may give it a go when the time comes.
Rick: Nice work, but wasn't the major done on this car fairly recently before you got the car? You are doing lovely work. Scottsdale Ferrari should take a lesson!
Thanks Dino! When I was in my '20s, I tended to be impatient, and my quality probably suffered some. But I now want to make sure everything is as right as I can make it... in terms of mechanical. Helps having more time available I have receipts for majors in 2000 and 2005, but I couldn't document that either the timing belt tensioners or water pump had been replaced/serviced. I also was pretty concerned with all the 348 transaxle problems, and even the oil pump chain & tensioner, so thought I'd want to be safe and check those out. So although the PPI looked very good overall, I decided that to be safe I wanted to do the major. I also thought it would be a great way to learn about the car!! I'm having a good time with it. The car looks well-maintained, and the only thing I was a little surprised with was that the clutch was DUE for replacement. The mechanic mentioned it would need service sooner than later, but it was definitely due!!
I bought a cheap fluorescent fixture at Home Depot which cost around $7. Lights also around $7, so for under $15 I improved lighting a lot. Hangs nicely from shock mounts. Also bought a nice used Moroso leakdown tester on Ebay a couple months ago, so that I could get my own baseline numbers, for future periodic monitoring. I had planned to do this before removing cams and adjusting valves. However, the smallest adapter that Moroso has for this tester is 14mm, and I didn't realize that the 348 spark plugs are so small.... 12mm. So I'll have to fab an adapter up at some point. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had an obvious 1-4 cam cover leak, and during the PPI, the shop mentioned that the car also perhaps had a front main seal leak. Based on what I see, it seems the leak is from the belt drive pulley... there's some oil leakage from above the crank, and the traces seem to just follow the casting around the crank main seal. Main looks pretty good to me, so I'll replace the seal (or whatever) for the belt drive pulley. I guess some have had bearing failures here, so Ill need to check that also. I'll be removing the front cover to inspect the oil pump chain & tensioner, so replacing these as needed is not really an additional problem at all. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I measured lash on all valves. Many years ago, I picked up a set of angled feeler gauges... don't recall where, though. These really made taking clearance measurements much easier! Shop around and maybe you can find a set. Clearance specs are approx. 0.008-0.010" for Intake valves, and approx 0.012-0.014" for Exhaust valves. My worst intake was 0.011" and the worst exhaust was 0.015". Quite a few others at or near the upper range, so I will probably try to install new shims on at least a dozen of the valves, which should bring them all to mid or below the allowable range. In most cases, shims are available from Ricambi in 0.025mm increments (approx 0.001"). You want to make sure that each of the shims that are removed are returned back to the same valve, if they are re-used. So I decided to just tape them to a piece of cardboard as I removed them. Of course, to determine what thickness of each new shim I need to order for each valve that I want to reshim, I first need to check thickness of each of the existing shims. Attached a few other pics of the cams & tappets too... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Although many shims are marked with the original thickness on the back, the shims will become worn from use, so still need to be measured with a micrometer to determine the thickness of the new shim to order. Since I already measured which valves I'd probably want to reshim, I really only need to measure the ones I plan to change. But I decided to measure them all, so that the next time I check valve lash, I'll have a pretty good idea what size of new shims I'll need to order before I even remove the old shims to measure again. The attached shim is marked 4.05mm, but I measured it as close to a little over 4.03mm, so it it was worn close to 0.001". So rather than automatically going up to the next size of shim, measure the original, and you may just want to order a new one of the same size, that isn't worn at all. Although most of mine were worn at or below 0.0005", you never know. May pay to check! Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you haven't already done it during this major, please check a few things: 1. Confirm that oil weep hole for cam seals has been drilled. If not, they'll likely leak again soon. 2. Lower drive pulley for timing belt... replace it, or make DAMN sure the fences are welded tight to the pulley. 3. Oil Pump tensioner and bearings. You'll need to remove the front cover to verify the condition of the (delrin?) tensioner, but its well worth the time. Your original post referenced this, but no pictures yet 4. And heck, for grins and giggles, post a picture of the little 'pea pusher' guide at the top of your cam pullies. It's the doo-dad which shouldn't touch the belt, but keeps it from flapping around at the top of the path. I think PAP348 had one he found installed backwards. Even if the service takes an extra few days, the time invested is well worth it.
If you haven't already done it during this major, please check a few things: 1. Confirm that oil weep hole for cam seals has been drilled. If not, they'll likely leak again soon. Thanks.... I'll Check that. 2. Lower drive pulley for timing belt... replace it, or make DAMN sure the fences are welded tight to the pulley. Yes, I was planning to check them... I have read and heard about that problem. I see Potxoli mentioned that earlier in this thread but reminders are good!! 3. Oil Pump tensioner and bearings. You'll need to remove the front cover to verify the condition of the (delrin?) tensioner, but its well worth the time. Your original post referenced this, but no pictures yet Right... warm today and I was laying under the sump undoing the studs... was hoping I could remove front cover without removing pan, but apparently no luck. Pan is only thing so far that has been no fun and I found to be a PITA. I also removed the 2 large and 2 small studs bolted to gearbox, but it's still a bit tight... anything else to be careful of when removing? PS I disconnected the shift mechanism from the pan. 4. And heck, for grins and giggles, post a picture of the little 'pea pusher' guide at the top of your cam pullies. It's the doo-dad which shouldn't touch the belt, but keeps it from flapping around at the top of the path. I think PAP348 had one he found installed backwards. Yes, I recall seeing that, and saw in the dwgs the way it's supposed to go in. I saw in a thread that it's supposed to be adjusted to not touch but be real close. Mine do have a bit of rub marks on them. Even if the service takes an extra few days, the time invested is well worth it. Right!! Not taking ANY shortcuts.... BTW, I'd actually like to replace mounts, but I know they are super high $$$$$... Anyone ever just repour old ones with correct durometer rubber to rebuild them?
I made a piston stop, as recommended in a thread by Fat Billy Bob (Thanks FBB!). I decided to take some extra 6mm cam cover stud nuts and thread them on the studs to support the plate. Then used nuts on top of the plate to fasten it down. Here are also a few other pics that might be of interest... Water Pump, and Front of Engine after removal of timing belt, etc. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Save the shims Rick. The last time I did my major I would have had to have gotten something like 27 shims, but I saved the old one's and swapped them around. I mic'd them the same way you did, and then I matched up the one's that would work best for each valve that needed adjusting. As a result I think I only had to buy 8-10 new shims instead of the 20+. The old shims are really useful for making tiny adjustments to the clearances, so hang on to them.
Oh yeah, for future DIY'ers when you go to remove the idler bearing, stick a long socket into the opening of the bearing to use as the fulcrum for your puller. If you just try to pull off the idler bearing without doing this you will risk breaking the bracket on the back side of the cam cover. So slip a long socket through the hole, it really does make it easier.
Saving shims was also what I thought I'd do for that future purpose. I think I need about 15 new ones, and none of the old ones seem to line up well with anything I need. Thanks for the idler tip too!!
Rick: With all this great work, the old girl should be running like a champ! You had better let me take you to the track for some fun!
Looks like you are having fun there Rick!! Thanks for sharing pics mate. Makes everyones life easier when it comes time to do their own maintenance.
