308 belt change turning into huge job ?

Mr. Hammer,,,
That motor rocks!
I love the homade "Sykes Tool" also, , ,
I'm gonna copy it.



Your friend in Grime,

Edwardo

 

Its enjoyable when you get the car for next-to-nothing and you feel good about fixing it up but if you paid a lot of money for the car and have to do all these things you feel screwed

 

It's just a machine....but it is sad you were baptized this way...

OTOH I only had my first 308GTB a few weeks when the first header exploded to bits....all is well now.

The dry sump system in known as superior for track use...

 

Exactly. That's why any 308 that doesn't come with iron clad documentation regarding the engine work is only worth about $15,000 maximum in my book. They're 30 years old now, and who wants to drop a bundle on a project that continues to eat up time, effort, and money like a bad race horse eating hay and costing stable rental.

 

I think I will be following in the footsteps of this thread. I was pointed to this thread by hammerson. (thank you) I have a grinding noise that I now suspect is likely the same bearings. I just finished the timing belt replacement so it could be that one of the new tensioner bearings is bad but either way the timing belt(s) have to come off again.

It appears that the big pulley on the crank shaft needs to come off. I did not see It specifically mentioned but all the pictures show it removed. I have never had to deal with that on a Ferrari but I recall being difficult on other cars. I have an impact wrench and a socket that fits but it is not an impact socket. What can I expect when attempting to remove that bolt and pulley?

 

You can tell which bearing with a stethoscope
You can use a new big 1/2 inch regular socket but eventually the corners will fail and need replacement. Get one from Sears.

 

I have a stethoscope. Where do I touch the probe to listen to individual bearings? Kind of scary sticking the probe in there while the engine is running. Also kind of scary running the engine when it makes grinding noises like that.

How hard is it to remove the big crank shaft bolt? What are the proper tools? An impact socket of the correct size (I think it is 31mm or 32mm and an impact wrench with what capabilities? I am concerned that my impact wrench may not be powerful enough.

 

The cam belt drive pulley should have zero slop, nada.
The best way for the 36mm bolt is impact wrench, at 200lb-ft of rating.
Wiggling does it, but sometimes it takes a puller to get the main pulley off.

 

I have the first timing belt off (again) and I can't see any slop in the timing belt drive gear but I can feel and hear a little bit perhaps .1 mm or .15 mm. Is that acceptable, or is that in need of replacement?

If it needs to be replaced I'm not sure I want to tackle this job. What do you think a reputable Ferrari mechanic would charge for this repair?

 

I put it back together and the grinding noise is gone just a little chirping that I still don't like. I talked to the folks at FoW and they said bring it by and they will give it a listen. I need to take it in for the 30K service anyway so I guess I'll just bite the bullet.

 

There should be NO detectable by hand radial(side-side) slop. The drive gear will allow a small amount if normal axial(in-out) movement. If you've pulled the damper, then there'll be a very noticable amount of normal axial movement.

I'd say that you've got bearings with a fair amount of wear & caught it before it got really bad. I'll bet there are salso some signs of the grease coming out of the bearings. I'd immediately begin changing the outer timing drive bearings while I had it apart for the belt job. The inner bearings run in filtered oil, so have almost no wear.

Once you have the necessary tools, changing the front timing drive bearing on a car with the bearing outside the seal like your '85 QV isn't bad. Last time I changed them was a 328, essentially the same as your QV. it added about a day to the total timing belt change time. If things go really well, (seldom does) it would probably add less than 1/2 day to the total belt change.

In addition to the new bearings, you'll need 2 new woodruff keys. The keys are almost invariably in very tight & get ruined while being removed. Also you'll want a brass drift to work the old keys out with.

I'd also have a pair of timing drive seals on hand. If there's no obvious oil leaking out, then the old ones are probably OK & changing the seals from the front is a tedious & a bit risky proposition. It's doable, but not something I'd recommend unless a seal was damaged or failed. If you slip up & push one of the seals too far inside, then there's no option but to pull the entire timing drive assembly. That's about a 3-4 day job the 1st time you do it.

 

My car really does need the 30K service. I have changed the timing belts and tensioners but valve adjustment and valve timing is one of those tasks I would just rather pay someone else to do. I will have them to check these bearings and replace them if necessary.