308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

If I am seeing things correctly, niether of those two cams will work on the front head, and are in fact intake and exhaust cams for the rear bank.

 

They look ok...but it looks like you'll need a custo distributor drive fitted to adapt them.

 

Wow - looks like they just fit using the maximum contact patch. It would be interesting to see the same photos of the Ferrari racing cam, the P-6 (racing 308s, Comp Daytona), with 9.25mm lift (.364) to see what they did for short term race engines.

As to distributor drives, I did a side-by side comparison photo a couple of years ago. Depending on what you want to do, you may can use your original drive with the pin hole re-drilled to fit, or have one made up easy enough.
Here's comparison shots of a carb car distributor drive with a later qv rotor mount. Also posted is my custom drive for a Mallory Unilite electronic single distributor - the whole distributor costed less than ONE OEM cap.
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Chris, you could also avoid the whole distributor drive issue by going to electronic ignition with coil packs.

 

The big tube coming out you have circled I believe is your brake booster hose, which is at the clutch side of the motor. I think you can figure it out from there.

 

Yup, the one on the bottom goes on the rear head.

 

Very pretty!! SO what all got replaced in there?

JIM

 

Yes thats correct. I noticed there are no vacuum pipes going from runner to runner. Must be a pre-79 manifold or a Euro manifold.

 

In spite of the heat & humidity, I made good progress today.
Installed the speedo drive gear, sealed the rear cover w/518 & torqued it down.

The 3 control arms w/forks, control forks & interlock 'capsules' are also installed & being held in place by my prototype shift shaft alignment tool. Fasteners are just finger tight as I need to align the control forks to the right angle control levers before I can torque them down.

The end is getting to be so close, I may work on it this weekend just so I can say it's done!

 

brilliant! great thread!

 

I caught that....."prototype tool".....LOL!

 

You got the deformable metal tab on the on the middle fork? That's the one you want to line everything else up to.

You're welcome if you copied the tool I made .

Cheers,

Sean

 

Hello Sean,
I know how to do the alignment, have done it several times before. Was getting towards the end of the day & I didn't want to tackle the job while I was hot, sweaty, grumpy & impatient - A great recipe for disaster, or at least a lot of frustration.

Didn't know you'd made a tool, is it posted in Fchat somewhere? What does it do?

I've been sketching out this tool for 4 or 5 years, but this is the 1st time that I needed it badly enough to make one.

I basicly copied the section of the sump cover that holds the detent springs, with 8mm screws below each spring hole. The screws can completely compress any combination of the springs & lock the corresponding shafts into place. Only thing is that the balls don't completely guarantee rotational alignment of the rods. I'm going to make 3 rods the OD of the balls with ends that closely fit into the selector rod notches. The rods will replace the balls, & when tightened down, prevent the shafts from rotating.

 

Verrell . . . I think you have to lock the one fork down that has the deformable tab BEFORE you put the other forks/rods in there . .. I don't think you can get to the bolt with the other shift rods & forks in and even if you could I think its' a MF to bend the tab to lock the bolt in place . . . obviously info that's not in the manual . .. keep us posted.

Also keep in mind when you have the "capsules" (good name) out you can engage two gears simultaneously to torque the ring nuts . . I've said before I think these are the parts that make shifting weird when old (edit: cold) and this is what I spent a lot of time thinking about how to make a tool to line everything up to the one shift rod which kinda acts as a datum.

Makes sense when you're in there and you see how the capsules have to slide against gravity, etc.

 

I posted pics and you commented on it . .. it's what you described only with 3 pins with pointed noses to act as the detents to apply pressure to the rods to align them . . .I found that just relying on the springs and balls was too little tension and the rods could still easily rotate.

edit: added pic . .. the piece on the left is for the shift rods . . . the block on the right is what I use to line up the "swivels" that contacts the shift rods . .. pics posted in another thread when someone was questioning alignment.
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http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170036&highlight=shift+rod

the original thread . .. you're welcome

 

You have aligned shift rods several times before? After having a gearbox completely tore down? Don't you have to lock the one fork down first with the retaining tab? There's no adjustment on that one . .. atleast on the boxes I've done . .. please share if I'm missing something here. It's a crappy design locking the one fork down that way instead of with the pinch bolt but betwen me and my tool maker buddy we just figured it was a clearance issue in the design . . .they would have preferred to do the split collars style I think on all the forks but just no room . . .what d'ya think?


Sean

edit: I just remembered it's not the fork but the actuator piece . .. anyway it's tight and you have to lock that one down first and line all the others up to it which is what the block on the right is for . .. I don't think you're there yet or this would make sense.

 

I made a tool for the alignment out of wood as well. Always impressed by the skills of others posting here .

 

Been thinking 'bout how I've done it and see if you agree after looking at it unless your gearbox is different.

1. tq down the one bolt that hold the actuator that has the deformable tab/shoulder bolt arrangement . .. I think you can bend the tab later but step 2 complicates things.

2. install the "capsule" and a tool preferrably to line up the shift ro detend . . . the capsule should be lined up also

3. tighten this shift fork for this shift rod.

4. now you can install the other 2 shift rods and forks and "actuators" . . you need that "block" tool to line these up to the shoulder bolt "actuator" IMO since these have the pinch bolt . . but see 5.

5. observe and see if you can bend the tab for the "actuator" installed before on shift rod #1 . .. it starts getting cramped and it's easiest before tightening the shift fork on that shift rod 'cause you can rotate the rod, get to it with a tq wrench, and bend the tab . . and then line up the shift fork.

I think you have to do it something like this . .. since you're going thru it right now you'll be able to see if you can really leave everything loose and tighten it up at the end . . I just think you have to commit on the first shift rod you install which has the shoulder bolt arrangement.

Cheers,

Sean

 

Sean, What I did yesterday was similar to what you suggest:

1) Installed 4th-5th shift rod w/fork & control fork able to slip. Coated 4th-5th interlock pill w/petroleum jelly & inserted it.
2) Installed 2nd-3rd shift rod, torqued down control fork & bent locking tab, left fork able to slip, & installed 2nd-3rd interlock pill as in #1.
3) Installed Rev-1st interlock pill as in #1 (it goes in the gap between the shift rods.
4) Installed Rev-1st shift rod w/fork & control fork able to slip.
5) Installed my tool w/all 3 detent springs fully compressed to keep the detents in place.

I'm not positive there's enough slop in the 2-3 control fork bolt fit into the fork to let it be miss-aligned with the pill holes, but if there is, this would take care of it. IF there is indeed some slop there, either the interlock pill being slightly miss-aligned, or the 2-3 control fork being slightly missaligned could account for the infamous 2nd gear shifting difficulty until the tranny web gets hot to let things fit properly.

After sleeping on it, I'd do step #2 differently to ensure the 2-3 pill is precisely aligned with the holes in the web when the 2-3 control fork is aligned to it's right angle rod:

a)leave the 2nd-3rd control fork barely loose enough to slip,
b) insert a piece of drill rod, or a drill bit exactly the size of the pill into the hole for the pills & thru the pill hole in the 2-3 shift rod. This will precisely align the 2-3 shift rod to the hole.
c) temporarily install the plate w/right angle levers
d) fine align the 2-3 control fork to it's right angle lever.
e) Remove the right angle lever plate
f) Tighten the 2-3 control fork bolt, & bend the locking tab.
g) remove the drill rod
h) install the 2-3 interlock pill.

While this sounds like more work, you have to do most of it anyway at some point in the process.. All that's added is inserting/removing the drill rod.