308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

YES

I've aligned 308 shift rods after one of the rods slipped in a fork enough so that the gears it controlled wouldn't work right. Also had to do it to correct a shifting problem that only affected the gears controlled by a single rod.

NO, not a 308 gearbox, but have worked on jag & rx7 gearboxes where the shift rods were all out.


Could you tell me how you use the 'block on the right' to align the R-1 & 4-5 control forks to the right angle levers & the locked down 2-3 control fork? I'm having trouble visualizing it's use.

Or, does it just drop down thru the control forks to align the R-1 & 4-5 control forks to the locked down 2-3 control fork?
If it just does this, how do you handle rotationally aligning the control forks to the right angle levers?

 

Think about it . . . how do you line up all three "control forks"? The one is locked in place as we discussed with the deformable tab/shoulder bolt . . . the other 2 are free to be positioned anywhere. You want to lock the rods in position and then lock the 2 free "control forks" in position with the "block on the right".



There's slop in the pill . . I even noticed a small burr that had worn on one side of the pill hole (center shift rod) that didn't let the pill just fall completely loosely thru . . .did you feel the fit in the center shift rod? This was a low mileage box that I noticed this on . .. the pill wouldn't push completely thru the hole on one side.

Here's another thought . .. the pill really only detents that first shift rod. . from memory I thought only one shift rod had a thru hole . .. if this is the case you are relying on the ball to locate it and I really thought it was difficult to tell if the rod was truly centered in the detent with a round ball which let the shaft rotate a bit even with load . . . like it could push it one way or the other.

Make sense?

 

by eye . . . this is yet another variable which is why I made the tool with the flat ends for the detents to make sure the shift rods were at a nominal location in the detents. See if you can wiggle the one that's installed already with the shoulder bolt while you've got your tool installed . . .if you can you need to upgrade your tool to what I did.

 

I found that out yesterday, That's what I was saying i was making:

As far as I can tell, I ended up independently duplicating your detent alignment tool!

I understand how the block tool works.

BTW, the shaft with the pill hole thru it is the 2-3 shaft that you're going to be aligning everything else to. That's why I think it would be a good idea to drop a rod down thru the pill hole.

 

but when you saw my tools last October you posted

Maybe I deserve just a little credit eh?

Cheers

 

WOW!
I don't remember seeing that thread or writing that post! I guess I am really loosing it!

OK Sean,
You built it first & mine is sort of a varient!

Honestly, The tool I built is the one I mentioned in that response, ie: I duplicated that part of the sump housing, then added thru-bolts to jam the springs so they forced the balls against the detents. I came up with the idea about 3 years ago when I had to replace my shift bushings & realign the shift shaft. Just never got around to building it. However, the idea for the cylinders with the ends that exactly fit the shafts clearly must have come from seeing your picture.

 

Gorgeous!!

 

Yuk! - that's for sissies!

 

Chris, Cavallino is in 5 months, you should beable to drive it there!

 

Chris,
if it makes you feel any better, after re-looking at your cam photos, that cam looks like about the max lift you should run anyway **safely** so the cam contacts squarely on the follower. I think you are in pretty good shape.
best,
Mr. Ultra Conservative

 

Chris do you have any pictures of the other side of the head?Looking at doing a valve stem seal replacement with heads on and want to know if the spring depresser will fit down the well.Could you tell me the diameter of the well?Thanks

 

Aren't those cams stock carb cams? I have a carb motor I'm rebuilding and a rough measurement of the cams looked like about .350/.360 lift . . . shouldn't be any reason those cams won't work . .. actually begs the question why you didn't sell your car and buy a carb car with a motor already in it like what you're building . .. at least you didn't stick with those low lift cams you had custom ground . .. seems like there's a variety of advice coming from cam grinders as to how much cam you can put in these motors . .. I started at .406 and am down to .380 on . .. I think you were told you can't run this much by the same people that made mine (sigh) . .. I guess I should be flattered that they're using my "real world" experience .

Cheers

 

why so soon?

 

Chris,
You're going electromotive, right? Plug the end of those cams and problem solved on distributors! Distributors are so 20th century, no matter what Russ says.

Birdman

 

Hey! I like the simple and reliable middle ground - electronic distributors (preferebly only one).
I undersand the 'advantages' of the Electromotive system - but it just looks so Rube Goldberg and out of place to me; and diminishes the aesthetic of the engine.
OBTW, what century were our cars made in?
best
crotchety old man
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I dont know,I believe that the original seals didn't sit well with the aftermarket valves,but thats only my theory.

 

The verdict is still out for me as well.....I would prefer distributors because to me they just look better and also give me more ECU options.....but there is something to be said for getting rid of them too.

 

What's the difference between the engine you're building and a stock carb engine . . . more compression? Did you get the heads ported? Any more info out there on porting results?

 

hee hee . . you Chris.

luv to see flow numbers on the heads if you got 'em ported . . so much mystery there . . . did you go with bigger intake valves also? would like to see pics of the valve seats after grinding/cutting 'cause there's so little room.

thanks,

Sean