DIY: Full Fluids Change

Please post pics and details.
Thanks in advance.

 

I assume I'll be doing these types of things myself as well; would be interested in seeing somebody take a crack on the full suite before me.

I think for clarity, I would think splitting them into seperate threads would be easier on the reader and easier to find if searched. Oh, and I'd stick the threads in the tech forum, too.

Good luck and take lots of pictures!

 

Make sure to remove the rear bumper and clean the gear box filter!!! Really doesn't do a lot of good to change fluid and not clean the filter. I know of a couple of instances were not cleaning caused the gear box to sieze! Not good!


Robert

 

Please do post, would love to see the DIY instructions. Why would you need to remove the rear bumper to get to the trans filter?

 

This might be helpful to some. See attached PDF:
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You don't.

 

I've been looking for DIY infoz like these too.

 

Yes, please do, thanks so much!!!

 

+1 [Separate threads would also be my vote.]

John,

I just noticed you're also in Campbell - Do you have the WSM CD? [I'm not sure you need it, but I do have it "locally" if you want to take a "look-see".]

cheers,
Ian

 

Alright, you're on the hook now. We expect detailed photos, great write-up, and all error documented. I can't wait~

 

In this thread or did you parse them?

 

Your post is the reason I never touch my car. Who (maybe evveryone else here) would have thought to remove the rear bumper to change fluids? I can see myself intending to "enjoy" the hands on experience (like washing and waxing) doing a "fluid change", but instead, suffering an anxiety attack scratching or otherwise severely damaging a $3,000 bumper. So much for (Zen and) car care. On reason I chose to specialize in intellectual" property was my early recognition of how dangerous I can be with tool in hand. It never ceases to amaze me how much I don't know and how often I am "saved" by something posted on this site. Best

 

Funny, just yesterday I did my oil in the 360 for the first time. Found that when I pulled both plugs they were both silicon-sealed. Thought this was odd, but whatever. When I went to re-install the plugs I found that the rear, brass plug was stripped! Well that explains the silicon. Called Daniel and have one coming right away ($27). Also found that the front plug had previously been stripped in the block and that a heli coil was already installed. Man do I ever hate heli's for oil... they always tend to leak. Guess that explains the silicon on that plug, too.

BTW, for reference: rear plug is the brass/magnetic plug requiring a 14mm allen wrench and the front is a pot metal plug requiring a 12mm allen. In my case, the larger of the 2 crush washers goes on the front-most plug. Buying the oil change kit from Daniel gets you the filter, both washers, and a replacement front plug. Unsure why you need a replacement front plug since it's metal and the one I received was shorter (less threads) than what I found in the car. If anything I think the rear plug should be in the kit since this is made of brass and tends to get dirty when the magnet collects junk. But of course this plug costs a fair bit more (and thus the kit should be priced accordingly).

Anyway, aside from my little problems, the whole task isn't that hard. I did not screw around with the screen nor oil lines though (as I've read in other posts). Anybody have any detailed info on those items? I'd love to see 'em.

 

Yep. That looks familiar.

BTW, I too thought it was an aluminum plug, but they are attracted to a magnet so they really are some sort of steel (Daniel, got any info on this?).

When I stripped the brass one I was really tempted to replace it right on the spot with my other "front" plug since (a) I had 2 of them and (b) they would both be removable with the same 12mm allen tool. But....... I just figured I'd go with what the original design called for. Not sure exactly what the magnetic plug is suppose to attract, but if Ferrari placed it in the case I figure that's good enough for me. When was the last time I designed/built and engine!

 

Thank you for sharing the information.

Have some questions:

(1). What engine oil did you guys end up going with? I could not find any 5W40 grade Quakerstate oil....
(2). What gear oil did you guys go with?
(3). The gear box mesh filter was it dirty?

 

I changed my oil also, and tried to follow the factory spec for tightening. Well, one of the plugs stripped; talk about a heart sinking moment; I thought I had stripped the threads in the case, but luckily it was the plug that took the hit, and stripped, and no damage was done to the sump threads. I called my dealer mechanic friend, and he said the torque value in the manual was way too high, and that they never torqued them that much.

Along the same lines, he said they don't drain the oil cooler during oil changes, nor do they clean the screen in changing the trans fluid, so I'm learning to take everything the manual says w/ a grain of salt. Also, the gearbox is a closed system that has no byproducts of combustion. My friend invented a fluid changing machine that's in every jiffy lube, and in his research for the project, found that little, if any, material is ever found in a screen trap like on an automatic transmission. This isn't a very scientific experiment, but after many track miles on my 993 between changes, I never saw anything on the magnetic drain plug that a mesh screen would catch, so I'm inclined to leave the screen alone, and just change the fluid yearly.

David

 

David,

I know of a couple of 360's that have had gear box failure as a result of NOT cleaning the filter screen. There are always pieces of metal floating around, not to mention the original silicone in and around the screen. If you track the car at all, you are playing with fire for not cleaning the screen! Talk to any 360/430 race team about the issue and the need for thorough maintenance.

Robert

 

It certainly can't hurt to try this. I didnt know there was si in there. I'll be curious to see what's in the screen when I change the fluid in a few months. Robert, have you seen metal caught in the screen?

 

Yes, and it is not uncommon or alarming to find, as well as the silicone "junk" from the factory install. The screens are about the size of a finger nail, not hard to get clogged. The trouble is you have to remove the rear bumper to remove the filter or you risk braking it in place and this has happened as well. Many don't want to pay the extra or take the time, eventually it can turn into a huge mistake.


Robert

 

Ok, now I'm starting to get confused. I was only changing my engine oil, not gear oil.
What do I need to do? I removed both drain plugs and was under the impression that the ENGINE has 2 drain plugs so I'm sure I didn't also dump the tranny oil.

So what is this screen in question? Is this for the engine or gear oil? And am I suppose to be unhooking hoses when changing the engine oil?

Guess it would help if I had a shop manual.