F355 starting problems

Tactical & Robbie (285Ferrari),

I want to thank you guys, and everyone else who give non-Ferrari alternative parts info to the forum. Bummer that a cross-reference link gets stopped, but if the parts keep getting discussed like this, search functions should be a next-best thing. Thanks to guys like you two, owning these crazy cars is affordable. Well, sort of.

Seriously, thank you both!

John

 

Bloody hell i am filling up here mate You are quite welcome
Yep Robbie is a good guy for the Ferrari 355 community. I remember the negative comments a few had about the idea he had about starting a 355 registry. Some pointing out to him how it will be a bloody hard slog gathering the information, (like he did not already bloody know that) But now look at it

 

Yep, FChat rocks. Robbie, I have been keeping a list in Word from all you good guys/gals on FChat and what I have found. It includes the source and part numbers. I'll PM you. BTW, a lower wattage bulb for the reverse light can be found at www.sylvania.com/catalog/automotive lighting - minature incandescent lighting then sleect S-8. You'll find bulb 1141 at 1.44amps instead of 2.1 amps

 

Hi Rory,

Check out my old thread "F355 Cold Starting Difficulties" for many suggestions from others to hlep you narrow the problem down. My problem is just cold starting. Once warmed up, no problems until engine cools down again (about 5-6 hours). If you have eliminated all fuel starvation and ignition issues then it can be one of your camshaft position sensors (they help determine the proper pulsing of the injectors). I just confirmed it today by repeating a tapping test for the third time. I started 0tapping the top of the sensor lightly while my partner cranked - started right up each time. Previously, I had t crank at least twice or more. If that's the problem, it's any easy fix by replacing the sensors for about $80 each yourself. One hex bolt secures it in place at back end of the valve cover. Hope this info helps you.

 

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh, ok.

Cool cool. Are you going to replace them now??

 

NOPE!! I like to crank my cold engine twice or more to start! I'm convinced it's the camshaft position sensors. So, the obvious answer to your question, YES! Ordering two now as we speak/write. If it's not the solution, then I'm going to pull all my hairs out (that is, what's left).
LOL

 

You may just find that they are dirty, or have oil or grease on them when you pull them...and, that cleaning them up, and the area they work in as well, will do the trip. Make sure you let us know what the wind up is...

Thanks,

Mike in Kuwait

 

Thx for the suggestion,Mike. However, in the engine out service, we had them all cleaned up. So I am faced with ordering new ones.. Will post results when done.

 

Well here's the results after replacing the 2 camshaft sensors. I still have the problem. If it sits for close to 24 hours, then will never start on frist crank no mater how long you crank but always right up on the 2nd. Otherwise, runs perfectly and restarts easily when warm. I've checked for continuity of the wire harnesses to the ECU's, cleaned and lubed all connectors. My partner has named it "Cranky" . Any new ideas from you guys out there?

 

Burn it!!

 

getting very close to that!

 

Have you cleared the codes and let the ECUs reset?

Mike in Kuwait

 

Simple. Just drive it every 12 hours, and you'll never have the problem! (If that's too much trouble, drop it off at my house and I'll do it for you.)

 

Thx for suggestion. Will have that done this week. Didn't clear codes after installing new camshaft sensors..

 

How about buying mine? And take up the challenge.

 

Well, Mike, we checked and ECU was throwing code 1121 both sides(we assumed it would reset after installing the new sensors). Anyway, we canceled both codesand it restarted right away on first crank so let it run for 10 minutes. After 26 hours, tried another cold start. It continued to struggle to run for 10 seconds. Turned off ignition and immediately started up on second crank. Will check tomorrow if ECU's will throw a code. She's appropriately named "cranky"

 

Rory,

Are you getting sufficient fuel pressure on both sides? At least start eliminating fuel supply end. What happens on second attempt to start?

 

+1 - do you turn the key on and let the pumps do their thing for 10 or 15 seconds before you start it? I do, and it seems to make a difference.

Mike in Kuwait

 

Rory,

Sounds like you next best move... sorry hear of your troubles... I know how frustrating it can be.

Mike in Kuwait

 

Me too! If it doesn't start at all, I would suggest beginning your investigation with the fuel delivery system.. Have you tested with starter fluid? - Give a 1 second shot in each intake. If it starts right up without any struggling, it may not be fuel problem but a fuel pressure test is still needed. If it doesn't start, check the fuel pump relays. Let me know what happens.

 

You are right. The pumps operate for about 10 sec. only. Makes no difference to my starting problem. Generally, if car sits over 24 hours, it won't start on first crank but always on second right away. My engine lights do not come on while driving. I checked codes for past few days. Always throw code 1121. On checking the manual, the error type is RPM sensor which makes the camshaft sensors suspect. However, reading on, page C66 says'"Engine rpm and TDC sensor (error always present with engine switched off) seems to explain why it always shows up after each drive (I did erase each time). So I'm back to square one! She's just plain old Cranky! {sssh- like a woman}