328 Oil Level question

Hmmm, I have never had to wait for mine to read full, just the longer I wait the more overfull it reads. Is it possible some of you are running low, or am I possibly running overfilled and too high? IIRC I put in about 11 quarts on a change. The second car someone scribed a line farther up the stick and after its sat overnight the level would be up to that mark but I still always started it and after it ran a few moments shut it down and re read it. In any event its never cause me trouble or appeared to run like it was overfull. Usually if the oil gets too high in an engine you'll spin the crank through it and smoke like a frieght train from dousing the rings with oil. I would always prefer to be a lil too high and risk dunking the crank in high G manuevers than get low enough to starve the pump and suck air.

Looking at parts diagrams for the various cars I have assumed the basic engine and lubrication system remained unchanged through the model years, maybe they are not? My God, now I dont even know what im doing anymore, lol.

 

11 qts is a lot for one of those. But as long as it isnt burning it or getting too much crankcase pressure it is probably OK.

All these posts though are the reason I always say RTFM. Not everything is intutive even to someone with a good grip of the subject.

 

You're not kidding. I track mine about 2-3 times a year and have for 11 years. Way back in the beginning I never had an oil psi problem. Never. Then I took a few driving courses AND slapped on a set of shaved track tires. Guess what happened to that oil needle then...

An Accusump only helped a little. The oil sump bafflle really did the trick. It is a MUST for these cars and not just for the track either, really.

 

Better idea. Gilmer drive the alt and siamese another belt to drive the pump. If you used a modern little bitty alt there would be room for both under the A/C.

 

if you say so I am sure it is but at how much $$$ difference vs that little piece of metal baffle?


Nice to have you back, by the way...

 

I have to admit I have not tried one but will be installing one in the winter. I have heard reliable reports both ways on them. I have always been a see for my self person though and figure it is worth a fair test.

But I sure like dry sump systems.

 

Better him than Jesse James

 

Putting the pump on the outside is what the restoration guy I was talking too wanted to avoid and I don't know how you could do that without a bunch of external line which is what I think you mean by "Foose" . . . I can get a pump made pretty reasonable that's similar to the factory dry sump pump so that pick up tubes connect right to it . . it's just that chain drive/tensioner that needs working out.

Thinking about it more if you don't care about it looking "concourse" the timing cover shouldn't need much machining 'cause you can run the feed to the port where the pick up tube use to connect . . . I'm pretty sure the stock cover will work and modifying just for the tensioner mount doesn't bother me as much as welding and machining a big port for the line fitting on the outside like the factory system is.

Where should the tank go? . ..

 

There is really only room for the tank where the factory put them and that is the space for the coolant tank and below it. They sat vertically in that corner which is close to the cooler so that works out well. The coolant tank would need to be more like the early cars in shape and go on the firewall above the end of the air flow meter housing where the intake hose comes off for the throttle body and just under the torque strut. In fact you could make it mount at the torque strut attaching point.

If you do not think it a big deal, putting the pump internally is best. The scavange line did come through the side of the block behind the alt so that would be an easy conversion. The supply line went in through the front cover. I have the drive pieces and that would be a piece of cake to make. Even a chain tensioner would not be a big deal. The 360 uses one that is very much like the 308 part and would be easy to adapt.

It is not that I think it needs to have a concours quality to it. I just hate mods like this that look like everything came from the Earls pegboard at the speed shop. I prefer to do it like the Italians would have done it appearance wise.

 

I don't believe I ever got more than 8 quarts in, whether it was my 308, or the later 328. I would usually overfill slightly, so I ended up with 8.5 quarts tops.

 

what's the factory pump bolt too? . . . I have a standard block here and from memory when I looked at this before seems like there were bosses on one side and then did they use a boss on the main cap?

 

me either .. 11 qts sounds about right for my 1 qt over at shut down GTSi version

 

I would have to look at the block and it is in storage but one or two of the mounting points are studs sticking out of the top of a main cap where they faced off a small pad.

 

yeah I thought so . . . there's bosses on the main caps on the wet sump block and longer studs could be put in the windage tray mounts in there was concerns about distorting the cap or something.

I was checking out my exploded views and notes and looks to me like the line comes out of the front of the block and the tank's on the front side of the engine? .. . there's also a boss on there on the wet sump block I have.

I like the idea of just running a line/adapter to the pickup tube mount on the timing cover to feed the factory gear driven pressure section . . . just requires another hole being blown in somewhere . . . any thoughts on where this second line should go or other option is to try and tap into the timing cover from the outside?

 

also maybe you could explain the assembly/disassembly of the chain tensioner .. I would think no master link so you put the chain on with the pump and drive sprocket and then is there a spring on the tensioner? . .. kinda like cam belts you lock it down?

 

Going in through the dipstick hole will get in the way of one of the two pickups that will be in the pan. The hole through the side of the block on the other hand will allow the plumbing to pass between them.

I think running the supply hose to the front cover would be best way.

 

That is the way you assemble it ...Yes

For the tensioner arrangement have a look at Ricambis web site and look up the 360 oil pump drive/tensioner in the 360 parts manual.

It is a very similar design, is readily available and would be a slam dunk to use on a 308

 

I wasn't referring to the dipstick hole, but now you mention it that might be a good way to exit for the scavenge pump and feed the pressure pump thru that casted boss that the standard dry sump uses for scavenge exit . . I was looking at an earlier carb block and it doesn't have the boss on the outside like the later blocks do FWIW.

like you said gotta see where the pickup tubes and everything end up in relation . . since I'll be making all that don't think that should be an issue.

I'll check out the 360 tensnioner . .thanks

 

Reed, you should leak the story on what your really up to.

 

Hello from Germany,

I just thought I could post some pictures of my factory drysump lines here. I took them two weeks ago during removal because I will have new ones made. I'm talking about this in a different thread
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208278

Best Regards

Martin
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thanks