Kick Starter :D
Even better! I can convert to an F1 trans and use the clutch pedal as a kick starter! With you guys helping I'll have this thing running in no time
How about a shotgun-shell starter off an old radial? It will add that certain je ne sais quoi that will really set this project above those run-of-the-mill quattrovalvoe V12 3x8s
Can you imagine firing the engine back up aftet being stopped for a traffic infraction and the reaction of the police officer on hearing the shot-shell blast from the starter? I daring say it wouldn't be a run of the mill reaction
there was some pre-war 12 or 16 cilinder engine that could self start, there would be a cilinder with some fuel vapor and when the ignition was turned on, sometimes it started to run.
You can do that with direct injection and direct fire ignition if you have 5 or more cylinders. Just keep track of the position of the crank when the engine stops rotating so you know which cylinder to squirt some fuel in and ignite to get it turning.
Nope, I think I'm going with the Chuck Noris aproach I'm pretty sure that once the new starter shows up it will work with the 360 rig gear and I'll be all set.
Ive had a cold the last couple weeks and havent felt like doing any actual work which is why there is so much planning type stuff going on. Last night I gave the oil pump a bit of thought. We talked about this a bit a while back but I gave it another look last night now that the block is back. I want to go with a dry sump .well probably need to go with a dry sump is a better way to say it. I lowered the engine so the pan wont hold as much oil and the engine is wider so the oil it does hold will slosh more making the normal 308 oil starvation problems much worse if I try to stay with a wet sump. Id really prefer not to add an external scavenging pump if I dont have to because it adds a belt to worry about, clutters things up a bit and it would end up mounted higher than Id like to see it although I could mount it directly on the end of the crank and that wouldnt be too bad, but Id need to do something custom with the damper to shorten everything up to a practical length I had a vague plan that I might use a 360 oil pump because I have one available to me and its set up to mount inside the engine and uses a chain drive just like the stock 400 pump ..but that is just not looking good space wise. The engine sits with the crank over the frame rails and I just dont have enough room to fit the pump under the crank but over the frame. I could maybe run an extension shaft to get the pump past where the frame is, but then it looks like it will be tight to the shifter shaft that runs through the sump. My next thought is that I could keep the stock oil feed pump and buy an after market 2 stage scavenge pump that I could run with an extension shaft. By leaving the feed pump on the outside of the frame the scavenging pump would be easily short enough to clear the shifter linkage. The only question I have is if the stock pump sits low enough for me to be able to put the scavenging pump on the same centerline (required to share the drive without adding a gear box or another chain) and clear the crank .I think so .maybe .I need to get my hands on a pump I guess before I can really finalize anything, but Im likely this idea because it will be very clean and neat and have a stock external appearance vs the crank mount set-up that will look like a race part I think.
Hi Mark What about just using the scavenge side of the 360 pump , won't that shorten it enough ? The pressure side feeds top and bottom but the scavenge is from the side maybe that's better from a piping clearance point of view . Just a thought
Um....MK_E ...um feeling lucky? http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212680 how about boosting that to a W-24?
I could break it apart but then it would need a drive support housing of some kind and it seems like a waste of a ferrari part. There is clearly no way iot's going in the space as is....and the more I really look at the situation my shaft idea won't work either without lowering the stock external pump because a shaft on the stock centerline will run into the bearings......the front of the crank is looking better and better. I guess I could modify the front housing and move the pump 2-3 inches to the side, that would give me the room for the 360 pump....but I'd have to rework bothe the timing cover and the transmision case (again). I'll have to think about that some more. Tomorrow I'm running up to my buddies in NY to pick up my QV heads and test the TR head on his flow bench to see if my bench is giving the same numbers as his since I know how numbers from his bench compare to the simulation software and to actual dyno results.....and the drive will give me plenty of time to ponder oil pumps. Image Unavailable, Please Login
no no no! no more cylinders, no supercharger, no turbo charger....I just want it to run again at this point
Ford makes some nice little gear reduction starters as well and you can get them with a few different pinnon options if you find the Chevy doesn't do what you need. Find a local starter rebuild shop and ask them to show you what they got. I've had good luck with a place here in MD in the past.
If you go external on the oil pump check out Pegasus Racing and look at some of the pumps for the F2000 engines. The newer formula cars have gotten very narrow and they have had to make some of the pumps smaller dia if that helps.
Don't be tempted to go undersized on the scavenge pump. I used the stock pump for pressure on my 365 GT4 drysump engine and Pace specified a 2 stage scavenge pump which turned out to be too small for the job at continuous high rpm. Clearly the standard Ferrari pump flows a lot of oil. They were amazed, but their biggest scavenge pump cured the problem.
I've got a personal contact with a dry sump pump manufacturer . . I'm gonna be going and seeing him about my internal 308 scavenge pump so if you've got an envelope in mind maybe I can bounce it off him. cheers
The most significant envelope requirement involves my budget, if it's cheap it will be the correct physical sive one way or the other Right now I'm thinkingend of the crank is where it will end up do pysically I have quite a bit of room. The main concerns I think stem from the fact that is will spin engine rpm, no more, no less. So it must be safe to 9000rpm and also must have a useful flow rate at crank rpm....or couse I don't know what that flow rate is. I guess I could spin the oil pump and measure it's flow rate then I think the sump pick up needs to be about 1.5 times? Maybe your guy knows the anser to that question too???
more is better . . 2 times pressure pump volume I recall being told . . if you're spinning at crank rpm you won't need as much pump . . generally they're geared down so if you go using something make sure it's good to 9000 rpm not 4500 rpm that some would design for.
I got a very strange result yesterday on my buddy's flow bench. The head came out at 137 cfm, not the 150 I had measured. I checked my calibration plate which I read at 131 and he read at 130.5. We tried the calibration plate with and without the cylinder adapter, same answer. I just re-check the head on my bench and again got 150. When I built the flow bench and made the calibration plate I didn't expect the head would go over the 131 so I didn't calibrate any higher....at 131 and down it's basically right on with no calibration correction required. Very strange. I'm going tomorrow I'll try to find time to make a larger oriface plate to calibrate at least up to 150 and see what I find. I may have to mail ti up to Vic to see what he gets with the bigger plate too.....I know what number off his flow bench mean on actual engine dynos so whether it turns out his calibration is wrong or it's my calibration, I'd like a correction factor between the 2 benches if nothing else. I borrowed a seat cutter to cut proper valve seats with nice blended radii and I'm thinking that should add around 10cfm which will get me almost right back to where I though I was to begin with. I'll need to make the intake manifold and mount the actual throttle body before I do any additional port work I guess too becasue the 60 degree v angle means there is not a lot or room in the valley and I'll have to put a curve in the manifold to stop the TBs from the 2 banks from hitting in the middle and that will absolutely change what the flow likes.
