I don't have any good way to weigh it. Quite a bit of weight is coming out of the engine bay and off the 400 from stock. This engine will be lighter than the supercharged V8 for sure and I think it will end up lighter than the stock V8 set-up. I guess I could use the bathroom scale and a lever to get close once it’s an engine then I just need to know the weight of a QV engine for comparison.
I made a list of what I can see that I still have left to do......sh*t I'll be at this at for least another year....I hate lists
post your list . .. makes all of us with on going projects feel like we're almost done before we start . cheers
It's on my other computer, I'll post it Monday. It's probably more scary to me than most becasue it's pretty general like "make headers" , but making headers for this thing is probably a 40-80 hour job and I need them finished before I can do the exhaust porting on the heads. Tonight I just about finished the cam drilling. 30 minutes tomorrow and that will be done. Then I just have to ajust the intake cam journals and they are ready to ship. I should have them on there way tuesday or wednesday at the lastest I'm thinking.
Simply Fantastic! It's is going to be so much fun put all of those beautifully made parts together for the final build. Also, what a blast to drive. Got a cigarette!
Fab work flywheel bell housing drop gears Starter Mods Head studs dry sump pump oil tank oil lines cylinder liners pistons Headers exhaust clutch master brake master hydraulic lines brake calipers ECU Select ECU sensors wiring harness Heads porting intake intake manifold Move intake valves Exhaust porting Cams Drill/tap resize intake journals Grind Assemble engine assemble trans
Everything has to match. The head will flow differently with the intake manifold and headers attached than it does without them, so for the numbers to mean anything the head has to be tested in the configuration I intend to run. I know a lot (most) people don't take this step, but it's pretty important.
I got the drilling finished up tonight and everything looks good. Notice my cams are slightly smaller OD on the flange than the stock 400 cam, that allows the pulley to be mounted backwards which save me the room I needed to put the chain in line. I also got the 22 intakes in the lathe (just barely - notice the tail stock only 1/2 way on the machine) and cut 1mm off each end of the bearing journals so the oversize and re-spaced buckets won't run into them....but they'll be close by my math, .010"-.015" I think I thought I was going to pack them up but I realized I still need a cross hole at the end of the 2 intakes to pin the distributor drive in place if I decide to run it. I have to change the setup on the mill and I'm tired so it will keep until tomorrow. It looks like they will ship to the grinder Wednesday. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So I just spent a few freaking days making a shifter knob for my project 442, and I log on to see you've made your own cams... I'm going back to Legos! Shiny Side Up! Bill Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm thinking it that would have beed the easier way to go at this point...... After one of those "oh f*ck this" days at work I spent most of the night on Moster.com before moving on to the car and packing up the cams.....when I ran out of packing tape boxing the cams....one of those days. The flywheel is in the shop. I beefed up the ribs on the back a bit so now it's up to 7.5 lbs. Hopefully they'll be able to get at it quickly so I can get going on the bell housing. The new larger TB hasn't shown up so the porting is still stalled, although I do need to try cutting the seats with the new cutter and see what it does for flow. I might have at the QV heads and get them ready to sell to recharge the account while I'm waiting....Lana won't be happy to see a cam grinding bill and an empty ferrari account.
I had a head start, I was just working on drilling bolt holes the last couple days. The shifter knob looks great...I wish I was up to replacing the shifter knob
When you start to think about mounting the clutch master cylinder make sure you don't overstroke it. The Tilton and the Wilwood have about 1.125 inches stroke. If you mount it so it bottoms out when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way down the master cylinder won't last long and the spring in the Tilton pressure plate will get weak prematurely. I've made both of these mistakes. An adjustable pedal stop should be used but that may be something you don't want to deal with on a street car. If you can mount the pushrod on the pedal at a point where you get about .875 to 1.000 travel full stroke it will have a real nice feel. Probably way down the road after you get the motor in the car but figured someone else might read this and learn from my mistakes.
I think the relatively long length of the header tubes will give you a less realistic picture than if you just bolted a short straight (matched) tube to the port. Actually a bell mouth might be more realistic. There's no way you can simulate the extraction effect which the headers will produce in real life, and they may actually impede flow artificially on the bench. This is of course just theory which means very little....
Titlon makes a big point of this....there was even a seal on the throwout bearing box that said a pedal stop is required. My plan is to do basically exactly what you sugest. A .700 bore master is just big enough to work and needs about a .900" stroke. I'll use that and adjust the attachment to pedal point to get the correct throw....I think.
