How To: Disassemble 328 Steering Hub to Switch Assembly

I didn't take as many pictures on this one so I apologize in advance.

First off buy yourself the steering wheel extension from Daniel at Ricambi. You won't regret it.

- Remove the six screws that hold the steering wheel and remove the wheel. Once you have the six screws out go slowly. You will have to disconnect the horn ring wire.

- You will see the nut that holds the steering hub on. I made a custom socket out of a 1 1/8" socket. I used a 4" grinder but you could do it with a Dremel given enough time.

- I highly recommend you use a second person. Have one person on the ratchet (with a long breaker bar) and the second person pressing on the socket into the hub.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now, to remove the hub.

- Leave the nut on loose. This is in case you damage the threads in the next step.

- Have your helper pull on the hub assembly while you use a brass drift to hit the steering shaft. One good whack and it was off for me. (Thanks to Verell for this suggestion!)

- Now you can remove your hub. This is what you will see.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The horn ring now needs to be removed.

- You will see some plastic hooks that hold the horn ring. Press in on them and remove. Keep note, there is a thin metal ring that acts as a bearing. Don't lose it!

- If you want to remove the entire switch assembly, there are two screws that are easily removed. You will then have to disconnect the harness and remove. This is what you will see.

- Notice the corrosion on my contacts. My switches worked fine, but I was troubleshooting a different problem, but I cleaned them while I was at it.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now I cleaned every contact with 2000 grit sandpaper.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

If you choose, you can remove the plastic hub that has your VIN on it. There is one bolt on the lower right side. You can then take a great picture!
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Interesting thread... I just had to do the same thing. One of my stalks broke down inside and had to be re-cast. Verrell is a tremendous resource for recasting broken parts!

I ended up making a socket just like yours, and one other tool to get the hub off more easily.
I took a piece of flat 1/4" x 1" x 5" long steel, drilled and threaded a 1/4-20 hole in the center, then drilled two holes out from the center to match the two threaded holes in the steering wheel hub. I used two long metric screws to attach the steel piece across the hub, then threaded in a long 1/4-20 screw in the center to push the hub off the steering column shaft. It only took 15 minutes to make (after a quick trip to the hardware store for the metric bolts) and I've used it three times already.
Thor

 

I was going to make a very similar tool, but that is when Verell told me to use a brass drift. I'm lazy so I tried it. You should post a pic of your puller for future reference. Thanks!

Gene

 

Gene,
Glad it went well, Good pix!

BTW, a std steering wheel puller can be borrowed from AutoZone or purchased from NAPA, then if it doesn't come with them, you just need a couple of metric bolts, & maybe some washers. Easier/quicker than making one.

 

Got my puller from Sears. Works great

 

Some questions on this. Is it OK to just rely on the steering wheel anti-theft lock to keep the wheel hub from turning? Are the ring nut threads standard (i.e. lefty loosey)? Someone's obviously been in there before on my car so I don't want to mess up the nut anymore than it already it. Does the hub just pull straight out?

I had some stereo work done and the jacka$$es broke my horn wire (and of course said they found it that way). After almost totaling my car last week because an idiot woman in a Mustang on a cell phone never saw me and almost ran me off the road, I decided no more driving the car until the horn is working.

 

I relied on the anti-theft lock and it worked, although I'm not sure that this was the best thing to do. I'm not sure how I would have clamped the steering wheel without damaging it.

The threads are lefty loosey, just like normal. I remember because I had my wife holding the breaker bar with a pipe attached, and she was pulling down on it. That thing was tight. I was pushing on the socket to ensure positive contact while pulling. Good luck!

GT

 

Don't put breaker bars on your ratchets if you can avoid it. Not on sliding T-bars either as they'll bend.
Don't know what you call them in the states but they're an Adjustable Offset Handle here. They're designed to take the force applied. Ratchets aren't.

 

Well, I got the bolt off. Now it looks like I'll be going to Sears tomorrow to buy a steering wheel puller. It's always baby steps.

"Dammit Beavis, you gotta have the right tool for the job!"

 

You don't need a steering wheel puller. A nice brass drift will work. Put the brass drift on the center shaft (the one with the threads) and give it a good whack. It's out and done, one hit for me. Don't take it from me, Verell giave me that tip and it worked perfectly. Trust me.

GT

 

Well, I don't have a brass drift either, so I'm still headed to the store.

 

Cut 6" off the ground rod of your Residential electrical Service, and reattach the clamp, use that for a drift.........j/k there may be stray voltages present....


Nice thread Gene!

 

Anyone know what size the two bolts are that you put screws in to use the steering wheel puller? This is turning into a nightmare. Apparently, no one around here uses brass drifts because I can't find one. I tried using the puller with the steering wheel mounting holes and that's just bending the steering wheel mounting ring.

Sound on Wheels in Huntsville, Alabama sucks A$$!!!!!!!!!

 

I'll ship you my brass drift if it helps.

If you are looking for a tool, call your locat Snap-On dealer. They will carry almost anything you need on their truck. You'll spend a few $ on tools, but you will get what you need.

GT

 

Don't tighten so much as to damage the hub, but tighten the puller as much as possible -- then strike the center screw on the puller with a hammer (this gives the same effect as "Have your helper pull on the hub assembly while you use a brass drift to hit the steering shaft"). If it doesn't come off, loosen and retighten the puller and strike again, etc..

 

I bought some at the local hardware store. The ones I found worked were metric. I can check in the morning what size they are as I don't remember.

 

Success! I finally got it off after another trip the hardware store this morning. The mangled ring nut was an indicator it had been accessed before and it looks like for the same reason I'm getting in there...the horn wire has been soldered before. Thanks for the input guys.

 

Great to hear!

GT

 

Good to hear.

For the future, the bolts I used were 8mm with a 1.25 pitch. Make sure they are at least 70 mm long or they will be too short to use with a hub puller. They fit with just a bit of slop but worked well.

 

Yep, that's exactly what I picked up at Lowes this morning.

I also noticed that the plastic base for the windshield wiper lever is cracked. Plastic in a 20 year old car just doesn't hold up. Well, at least I have puller and a procedure now when I have to pull it off again to repair the plastic.

Off to Hooters....