FWIW I've been running the E6x now for over 3 years. Can understand wanting the flexibility of the E11 for supercharger projects, but for naturally aspirated the E6 has been working great. I'm not running sequential fuel injection but I am running the 8 motorcycle coil on plugs. Also I bought the terminated wire harness for the E6 which made installation pretty easy as these things go. I personally have not played with an E11 but it's next on my list ... I'm glad to hear SMG2 got it all working ... I thought you weren't happy with the Haltech ECU? ... what ended up being the problem? cheers
build software bugs, and GM wires the coils completely different than haltech, used the mitchel guide to figure that one out. they have a power/ground but use two signals high/low, where as haltech is power/ground/ground and signal.
Seems like I'm spending all my time making tools for this project. Realized that 60-80 psi in a cylinder is going to make that piston want to move fer shure, so made a tool to lock the flywheel (1st 3 pics). Spent a bout 8 - 10 hours machining this tool. It grabs the flywheel teeth, is narrow enough to allow it to align with the flywheel no matter the flywheel's position in the access opening, & the 2 allen set screws lock the tool firmly against the bell housing. Also wanted to make sure that the valve seals weren't cocked when they were pressed down onto the valve guide, so made a tool that presses the seal on using it's brass rim (last picture), this one only took a couple of hours. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just came across this. Didn't know if it had been discussed before... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-308-328-Supercharger-Kit_W0QQitemZ200255809354QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item200255809354&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
Yes - that is the kit FChatter Lou Gaudio developed last year for 928 Motorsports. A couple of excellent threads on both his and other great installations by McGee and Charness. Verell's version is a modified application of FChatter mad scientist and politically misguided genius Mark Eberhart who was really the envelope pusher on blown 308s.
Thanks Russ. The 'search' feature will be enacted! Will look for the installs; an extra 100 can't be all bad.
I haven't been here for a while. A couple of people picked up my old supercharged 308 thread and, after nosing around a bit I found your thread. I wish you great success with it! FWIW I'll throw in my 2 cents. My car started out as a Euro 2 valve which is different from your car in many respects but I also used a Lysholm type supercharger which, like in your case, meant relocating the oil filter and modifying the plumbing under the intake manifold among other things. I mounted my remote oil filter (downwards) to the rear distributor mounting flange cover. I consider the 308 "oil cooler" to be an engine warmer since it blows the heat it takes from the oil right back at the engine. I installed a Setrab oil-to-water oil cooler against the bulkhead between the engine and passenger compartment and use the left air intake to feed more air to the induction. In order to still have AC, I removed the marginal stock water pump and installed an electric Mezier pump behind the radiator and only have a single serpentine belt running the AC, alternator and supercharger. The AC compressor was replaced with a GM radial unit which comes with a serpentine pulley. I installed a 100 amp Ford, one wire alternator (which also comes with a serpentine pulley) My set-up also employs an air to water intercooler. The coolant is pumped by a smaller Mezier unit and the heat exchangers are modified Ford AC evaporators that mount under the headlights but mounting them behind the rear wheels might be a good place too. I was interested in moving weight forward but the plumbing was quite a hassle. BTW: What ever happened with the reproduction defroster vents? Wil
Today we pulled the front wheel well plates to see what it was going to take to mount the intercooler radiators. Doesn't look encouraging. The space under the headlights is a lot smaller than I remembered(sigh). I think they fit mk e's car because he's got a 288 GTO repro front spoiler that's deeper than my deep Euro spoiler! Also pulled all 4 cams, I'm ready to start removing the valve springs, testing them, & installing the shims I mentioned earlier in this thread. I'm a bit bummed out, While looking for another tool I came across a nice valve retainer insertion tool that I'd forgotten that I owned. It's design makes dropping the retainers very unlikely. It requires inline access to the valve stem. My oh so carefully machined valve spring compressor has the lever across the top, would take quite a bit of redesign to use the retainer tool with it. I guess I'm going to use the valve spring compressor as is & see how bad using my fingers is(sigh).
Thanks Wil, that's a good tip. I hadn't thought about how far down that lip protruded. It also sweeps a large arc that has to be kept clear.
Finished up my valve spring compression tool & the extended fitting to let me air pressurize a cylinder so I could shim the intake valve springs. The tools worked great, but I still had a heck of a time getting the the retainer to release the keepers so the would depress the springs leaving the keepers free to be removed. I was actually able to depress the valve against 135psi of air pressure w/o breaking the keepers loose!. Finally discovered that rocking the valve spring tool side to side while keeping pressure on the spring released the keepers. Anyone have a tip for getting the retainer to more readily release the keepers? Once the keepers broke loose, it was still a PITA to get the 1st one out of the retainer. Took a magnet & small pick type tool while depressing the valve spring. A 3rd hand would have clearly been helpful! BTW, the retainer seems to need to be cocked off-center to get enough clearance to remove/insert a keeper. Glad I did this tho, when I removed the valve stem seal, I found that the part that slides on the stem had split off from the part that fits over the valve guide! I'm sure that wasn't helping my oil consumption, but probably was giving some extra upper cylinder lubrication.;^) I'm breaking for lunch now, hopefully it'll go back together w/o much fuss & I'll have better luck getting the other keepers to break loose. Will post some pix tonight.
Put some pressure on and wack the tool with steel hammer......tapers get very tight and are a pain even with the heads off the engine.
Check out the Sir Tools porsche valve spring compressor tool. something like that would free up your hands. Part #P7I or P7E, they look the same to me. http://www.sirtools.com/porsche_iii.htm
Back from lunch: Drat, did NOT want to go back together. The bottom of the valve spring well was only machined flat out to about 29.8mm OD, the shim OD is 31.4mm[1.25"], so the shim is sitting proud of the bottom of the spring well. Need to either find smaller shims, or else a way to hold these so I can cut them down by about 1.6mm. I may have found a really good match: Dura-Bond #6043/Silver Seal A408: OD: 1.140"[28.96mm] ID: 0.570" [14.478 mm] Should have them Thursday! Meanwhile I've got to go back & reinstall the springs & keepers as I don't want to keep the engine under pressure till then...
Not my day, the cage that depresses the valve spring while providing access just bent. Furthermore It's just slightly oversize so it tilts the retainer sideways so the keeper won't go in. Back to the mill & lathe to make a correct sized & stronger one. Meantime compressed air is keeping the valve up in place.
Still a bit of machining left on the revised spring compressor. Made it out of 1" black iron pipe. Wall thickness is about 3mm, should be plenty strong. BTW, just sprung for the last major piece of the system, a Tilton 5.25" 3-disc carbon clutch! Tilton p/n 6753USORA-P12 with -07 (1-1/4 x 10) spline. This is their current equivalent to mk e's clutch. A pic from Tilton's web site is below. For pics & description of what's involved in installing it see mk e's thread on his original setup: Installed a carbon-carbon clutch in the 308 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4309&highlight=clutch I'll have to duplicate his intermediate lever as well. Price has gone up a lot since mk e bought his. Even with a 5% discount my wallet is now thinner than a sheet of notepaper! On the plus side, this clutch is strong enough that I'll probably never wear it out. Even if I do, Tilton will rebuild it for about $300! mk e, BTW what did you do about the pedal stop Tilton reccommends? Image Unavailable, Please Login
No need to duplicate it, you can have it. I’ll drop it in the box with the throw-out bearing adapter which I haven’t shipped yet. I’m using a hydraulic throw-out bearing on my V12 to save space so I don’t need this stuff. You shouldn’t need it with the new lever. I was afraid modulating a racing clutch for smooth driving on the street would be a problem and wanted all the help I could get so the lever is designed so that the entire pedal travel is require to get the correct travel at the clutch…and if anything the pedal ends up sitting a touch high once you get everything adjusted so the clutch isn’t dragging as I recall. How much has the price gone up ballpark %?
Verell, we use this clutch in our GT-1 Mangusta (Huffaker). Great clutch and stands up to 800+ naturally aspirated HP pretty well. We keep enough spring platess, discs and steels to do quick rebuilds in the trailer. I know this will sound a bit counter intuitive... but I'm just a little curious how it will stand up to regular use in a street car? We really only use the clutch for launch and stops. Using a Hewland wide gear trans behind it, once engaged you never touch the clutch in the race car so the clutch doesn't see the cycles a street car does. Or do you have straight cut gears? Rick
THANKS!! Greatly appreciated. Just put them in a priority mail flat rate box, s/b cheaper than UPS or FedEx. >mk e, BTW what did you do about the pedal stop Tilton reccommends? That's good news, one less thing to fabricate. I'll start with it. I like a clutch that releases/engages at about 50% pedal so after the main project is finished I can always make a lever with a different ratio & add a pedal stop if I don't like it. Almost 40%: Tilton's List is now $4950.00!!!! The Tilton person who helped cross-reference the model you got warned me to not expect much price flexibility from the distributors as 'we just can't give them much margin on the carbon clutches'. I got the same story from the distributors I called for quotes, only 1 gave me a modest break & I had to twist his arm quite a bit to get it. Any suggestions on the spring, or do I just measure my OEM one & get one with about 1/2 the spring constant? Mark drove one in his supercharged QV for a couple of seasons, including a fair amount of autocrossing so he can comment from experience. Tilton tech support seemed to think that because I'm only running about 50% of the HP & torque that particular 3-disc clutch configuration is rated for, and also since most of the time it'll be driven on the street, it 'should last forever'. BTW, I tend to get a lot of life out of clutches. The original clutch in my Rx7 TurboII lasted almost 100K miles which is typical for me. I didn't exactly baby that Rx7 either, it was running quite a bit more boost than stock for most of it's life.
The spring I have is very light compared to stock, 5% or less I'd guess. You could go a little heavier but this one seemed to work fine. I'll send it to you wirth the other stuff. I guess I put about 10k miles on it and it hadn't worn enough that I felt I needed to adjust the pedal. It seemed pretty good. It will chatter a little under certain conditions, but not bad and not hard to avoid. I let several others (all non-ferrari people)drive the car with just a quick "the clutch is a little sensative" and no one had a problem or even commented abdout the clutch feel. The one thig I recall was the center hub was a bit tight on the shaft and I touched it up a little with a file or sand paper over a file, I don't recall.
