I know that feeling bro, I was busy as hell a few weeks ago, dropped off now a bit thank goodness. Best bet is to leave it till you have the time, jack it up and take a look. It could be as simple as a fuse though.
Thanks!! It was that pesky 7.5 fuse. No jacking for me!! Motor is good, all is well. I now have lights and can motor about after dark!!
Watch out, if you replaced it with another 7.5 amp fuse, it WILL blow again...maybe not right away, but in the coming weeks or months. I finally got fed up and stuck a 10amp in there a year and a half ago....been fine since. Only on the right side was giving me trouble...left still has a 7.5 amp.
I wonder if this is due to the gears in the lift motor drying up and binding, therefore putting more load on the motor and drawing more current? No real issue I guess, if the 10amp fuse solved it.
Thanks. I bought a 5-pack of 7.5s. If it proves to be persistent problem, I will ask James (@Norwood) to look at it for me, or just replace the motor. As James-NZ stated, it could be the drying of the lubrication and/or gears that causes an increased draw on the system. If the car was designed to have a 7.5 fuse for that operation, I think there is a reason. I tend not to second-guess engineers, but these are Italian cars. I think that the temperature may also be a factor. We will just have to wait and see.
Yes, the grease is probably getting hard or sticky or something causing the higher amperage draw. But the 10 amp is a solution, a few of us have proven it. You could tear it open and attempt to clean it up and regrease. The problem is that the initial starting amp draw is higher than the 7.5 amps, causing the fuse to blow....it would be nice if you could buy ATC/ATO fuses in a "slow blow" type like the AGC fuses. Then they could still be 7.5 amp continuous rating, but handle the higher amp start up draw. If the 10amp ever started blowing, then I would certainly not go higher, I would either fix or replace the motor. Note that Ferrari as f'd up before. Recall the air injection pump motor for the 355 has a 15 amp fuse originally, but FNA and the dealers have since replaced them with a 20amp. That is the factory fix for that one. Surprised they never replaced the fuse listing sticker on the cover showing a 20amp. I can see future owners replacing it with a 15amp and blowing them all the time again...
Thanks for the info, I've also bought a kit with numerous other amperage fuses in case something (more) vital fails!!
Hey, can we get an expert opinion here! I am having this exact problem as well and the 10 amp fuse does seem to have solved the problem but I am seriously concerned about using the 10 amp fuse. Any opinion, from those with professional knowledge would be really appreciated. Rifledriver, Goth, Dave Helms please tell me what you think so I can sleep at night without thinking my car is going to burn on the side of the road or worse in my garage?
I must be leading a sheltered life back here, I rarely see this type of failure. I dont think 2.5 amps difference on the fuse will make much difference but I would have to look at the wires and the connectors in line and calculate their capacity to be sure. I think folks jump on the "too stiff" idea way too quickly as I have not yet read about anyone checking voltages at the motor. Back to basic diagnostic work before assumptions are made... Constant load at lower voltages = higher current draw. Way too easy to say the constant has changed, I want numbers before I would believe that in this case. Just my backwards thinking 2 cents Dave
