removal and instalation of engine

Following a previous thread where I rasied an issue with "valve shims and cam wear" , I have decied to remove the engine in order to remove the heads and sort the problem. I have started to follow the procedures on page 19 of the work shop manual "removing and instalation of engine". I am keeping diary and will endeavour to keep this thread up to date and inlude some of the more unanticipated issues as they arise. Rather than wait until the job is done and then report back with a neat report, thought it would be more appropriate to capture the real time aspects and issues. Real time may be several months.
Kevin
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I did mine last week. After everything was off I pulled it alone in 2.5 hours ( could have done it in about 2 if I had pulled the alternator first). This is the second time that I have pullled a dino motor and I will tell you a few time saving tips. #1 ( a big one) use PB blaster on all the bolts, nuts etc before you start to remove them. Let is soak a bit. The time that fasteners came off with this was simply amazing (really) vs what it took with WD40 #2 you can use a nylon rope threaded through the lifting slots (holes) on the head. You wont bend anything like you would with a lifting chain. I was terrified that mine would slip so I had a safety chain & another larger rope on as back ups- I didnt need em-probably paranoid but worked. You should take the carbs off to pull it as you can then pull the rope flat to the head & you get more vertical lifting room. Also you will need a fairly long boom. The rear of the car to the center of the engine is approx 45" and you will need a crane that can extend that far. The bell housing side is tilted down and the water pump side is tilted up on removal of the engine. Mine is now sitting on an engine testing stand and If I can connect the water hoses together tonight I will run it tomorrow. I had a lot of fun doing this. Jim Selevan gave me all the tips and I reviewed OMGJON's work a bunch. Good luck!!

 

I hope I speak for F-Chat: thank you for documenting this work!

 

Thank you, Tom, for the kind words. Kevin - the second time will take about half the time. As Tom mentioned, a nylon rope through the four "loops" in the aluminum heads offer a lifting point that I have used numerous times. HOWEVER, there is a warning. A good friend, John A., who knows everything Ferrari, suggests that these "lifting" loops in the heads were not designed to lift the engine, but were used to lower the heads onto the engine during factory assembly. Many have used them and I have yet to hear of one shearing off while suspending the weight of the engine and transmission. That said, I have gravitated towards supporting the bulk of the weight of the engine with nylon rope or strap under the crank behind the pulley, and under the bell housing where it cannot slip off. As a safety one can run nylon rope through the head holes.

I prefer nylon rope or straps merely because chain will have a tendency to scar the aluminum wherever it comes in contact.

Other tips:

1) The more you remove while the engine is in the car, the easier it will be to lift the engine out of the car. Hence, distributor, oil filter base, heat exchanger, rear header, front header WHILE halfway out, carburettors, etc.

2) DO NOT FORGET THE CLUTCH CABLE. Do not forget the clutch cable. Don't forget the clutch cable. The cable is easy to forget, and you will wonder why the engine is not lifting. It is easier to remove the clutch cable while the engine is hanging on the cherry picker a few inches. This allows one to remove the clutch cable from the bell housing without having to pull it into a tighter bending radius. You will understand when you do it. It is difficult to remove the thin, large diameter nut that holds the cable to the clutch housing. Take your time. Get a slotted (19 mm I think but check) DEEP socket. You will turn it with a crescent wrench.

3) Remove with three people. Two to fend off while one operates the picker.

4) Watch carefully as the front header shears off your fuse cap and or fuse box on the firewall. Unless you pay very close attention, you will shear off this fuse box.

5) Don't forget shift rod pin removal. Leave the car in 2nd gear, AND DON'T EVER, EVER, take the transmission out of 2nd gear (once removed). If you take the gear rod out of 2nd once out of the car, it is likely that the rod will rotate and you will lose all knowledge of where the forks are. This will require removal of the gear box lower plate to reset these forks. Just leave it in 2nd gear.

6) Remove all aluminum water tubes running from the center conduit to the heat exchanger and the thermostat. These tubes will get in the way.

More to come.

Jim S.

 

Great thread everyone.

Thanks Kevin for starting it and Jim and Co for joining in with tips.

Having seen the detail of your previous threads Kevin I am really looking forward to this one!

Good Luck

Dave

 

I have made a little more progress. Nothing difficult. Iron debris in gear box oil was a little surprising.
Kevin
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and the exhaust removal
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Chaptc, Jim, Dave, thanks for the heads up on these, will comment back when I get to the relevant stages.
Kevin

 

Incidently, in case you are wondering, I am not following the precise order of the workshop manual. I have only completed the items listed above so far. This is partly beacuse I wanted to work in the pit first before putting the car on axle stands and working from top and wheel arches.
Kevin

 

Kevin:

I had my car up on a lift a couple of weeks ago for an oil change. While nosing around, I noticed the same handbrake cable / exhaust flange interference. As mine is a one-owner car that has never had the engine removed, I'd say that it's a normal Dino "quirk".

Very interesting thread, BTW (and good photos).

Dan

 

Hairy metal debris on the magnetic gear box drain plug is normal (at least in my experience). Hand brake cable is designed to rub against exhaust manifold-muffler flange. My Dinos all do this. This is a secret trick to allow the headlights to work properly!!!

Getting the muffler out over the right (passenger) side of the A-frame suspension is facilitated by jacking up the wheel a bit to allow the bend in the muffler pipe to exit straight out rather than having to lift and twist and twist and lift.

Jim S.

 

I'm not clear on how you got your exhaust out, esp. how you cleared the exhaust forward section "U bend to flange" from the square body tubes. With the car jacked up, the wheels removed, exhaust mounting brackets and flanges disconnected, the only way I can see to successfully remove the exhaust is to pull it straight out, rotate the muffler 90 degrees CW down to clear the tubes and wiggle it out past the "U" and flange. To do the rotation means the car must be about a meter off the ground, right?
I'm there now and haven't been able to remove it with the car on jack stands. It seems that a lift is required to raise the car high enough to do the rotation...unless you can help me understand a method to remove the exhaust while it is simply on jack stands.
Any help is most appreciated, Thank you.


A small amount of fine filings on the trans oil magnet is normal and expected in gear driven machinery. I don't believe you should be alarmed at the findings in your gear oil.

 

Scott,
I have removed and re-insalled the exhaust about 4 times and each time have used the same proceedure. Lets assume that the setup is the same as your car.

1) In my case, the car was on the floor and over the pit. I have done same with car on small axles stands, wheels off and no pit. No big difference, exhaust follows same route, except one person has to lie on their back and reach both flange joints to guide them out.
2) remove the three bolts on each of the two exhaust flanges. I could not removed the two glands untill exhaust started to move and then they dropped out.
3) remove the two triangular flexible mounting brakets completely, ie. each has two nuts on the exhaust and each has two nuts on the lower rubber mounts. remove the mounts from the car.
4) the exhaust should now be free and lying gently on the chassis rails.
5) one person kneels down facing the rear of the car and holds the two polished tail pipe bundles. They have to do little just follow and take instruction from other and the end weight.
6) the other person needs to be able to guide the two flange ends through the chassis. The long one (first white circle in the photos above) is the one to take care with else it will scratch the chassis. I slid the triangular flang coupling forward along the exhaust tube by about a foot to help clear the lower side of the drive shaft.
7) the exhaust comes out inline without any sideways or horizontal movement. The front flange clears the transverse chassis square section first.
8) The rear polished tail pipes then need to dip down by about 10-20 degrees to lift the long flange end over the chassis. The polished tail pipes are always well clear of the ground (approx >5") with car wheels on floor.
9) The tail pipes are then raised so that the pipes are very close to the painted body work.
10) Then level tail pipes to normal position for final withdrawl.

Once the bolts were off, it took me about 2min to guide out. Not easy to decribe further, but mine was very straight forward. Hopefully your car is set up similarly.

Kevin

 

Scott,
That is not a stock Ansa muffler. Might have slightly different bends. You can pull engine and leave muffler in place. Just pull rear header first.
Kevin,
Hope you have studied omgjon's web site pictures. www.dinorestoration.com Lots of good ideas there. Brake cable does touch on my Dino. Wore through at about 120,000 miles. I spliced cable with a piece of steel tubing brazed to ends of cable. I slit tubing so I was sure braze wetted all the way. Tubing now rubs but will take a long time to rub through again. It is a good idea to grind and polish the flanges where things rub. I could not get clearance without grinding through flanges so just polished where rubbing occurs. So far, so good. Hardly ever use emergency brake, just leave in gear when parked. Little tension on cable.
John

 

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Kevin
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Kevin
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Hey guys - as mentioned in my first post of this thread, removing the muffler is easy once the right rear wheel is lifted a bit with a jack.

The "U" bend on the long muffler pipe prevents the muffler from coming straight back. Hence, on first approach, everyone tries to rotate the muffler and find a geometry that will let it come clear of the chassis. However, if you simply place a jack under the right rear suspension and lift the A-frames through their upward arch, this will allow the U bend to slide out easily.

Jim S.

 

John,

yes exhaust and manifolds are not now standard, althought the one I originally removed was a steel and I think ANSA/I (attached). It is a two owner and full documented history car with then 40k miles. As far as I can see the one removed was original. I used the same method as that I have described to remove. I layed orignal? ANSA/I next to new stainless and they looked very similar. Jim's comment on jacking to raise A frame makes sense to me, although did not have to do so with the exhaust I had.

Yes Omgjon's web site is a gospel and I have gone through many times. Thank you Omigjon, simply brilliant.

Noted your hand brake comment.

Also, made a classic mistake of forgetting to loosen the rear wheel bolts before jacking car. However, used handbrake to lock wheel to undo and found that left rear turned slightly while right rear held. Had previously set the handbrake balance, obvioulsy not well enough. Will use this approach to check and adjust on reasembly.

Keep the comment comming, I am learning.

Kevin
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Kevin, not exactly about engine removal, but, how does the stainless system sound?
Sources?
Thank you and great pix by the way...
Regards,
Alberto

 

Alberto, I think it does sound slightly different to the steel one, perhaps a little lower on the low frequency, but unless you have both side by side to listen two, its hardly an issue. Sounds fabulous to me.

Exhaust from www.quicksilverexhausts.com
Manifolds from www.superformance.co.uk

Kevin

 

Todays activity.

All fairly straight forward. Not quite sure how best to drain the coolant out of the engine block, as rear tap has been broken off (not me!) and the rear one 1) looks impossible to get to and 2) can't see a way of attaching a pipe to drain, looks like fluid is going to poor out all over bulk head and chassis.

The reason for removing the engine was to address the valve clearance issue raised in a previous thread. However, I am now beginning to suspect that I may have a head gasket problem to the front of cylinder 6 (see photos).

Anyone know: where I can get new block drain taps from. Have others had problems drainging the block?

Kevin
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