I have had enough of hoses. These slides show the worst news so far. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Last action of the day. Hopefully tomorrow will have everying detached and ready for lift off. Will then be a slight delay as need to sort out the engine crane. Will report on the crane issue separately! Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login
Does anyone know the weight of the engine? I can't find it in the books and would like to check hoist equipment.
Yes, sounds as though you have a head gasket leak. Water in the crankcase blow-by cannister on the firewall is not a good thing. Water in the oil has evaporated and then condensed in the cannister. The drain plugs are easy to find. The hand-turned wing nut screws into the nut that goes into the engine block. I believe this is a standard part and has pipe threads. You should be able to find it at any fastener shop or good marine hardware. Check McMaster-Carr - page 433 or search for "drain cock" - I am sure you will find the part. I do not have the thread size at this moment. Check it out. Jim S.
Not acheived as much as I would have liked today due to other activities. Still not sure cleanest way to drain the block. Let me know if you have done this part before. Also anyone know the weight of the engine? car is 1080kg, my guess is that the engine is around 600kg? Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Kevin: A minor correction. What you have labelled as the "oil pressure sender" is, in fact, the switch for the low-pressure warning light. The sender for the gauge is located elsewhere. How do I know? Mine is busted (I have the replacement part to install at the next oil change) and the gauge still works but the warning light does not. Dan
This evening was a bit more challenging. the first set of slides shows the removal of the last coolant pipe, after i had removed the heat shield. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This really is the last action of the day for me. Need a beer and a few plasters for the knuckles. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nearly ready for lift. Draining the coolant from the block was less of an issue than anticipated. Since the rear manifold was removed, the drain tap is fairly easy to reach from under the car. I was worried that he coolant would spray everywhere. However, flow from the tap was quite slow, more of a dribble than jet. It took 1/2 hr to drain, and probably something like 2-3 litres. All helps to reduce weight and mess for the lift. Have studied a number of pictures on the web showing Dino engine removals. All are using a balance bar between the crane hook and straps/chains to get the tilt. I will get one. Noticed that Omjgion www.dinorestoration.com used chains bolted to the block between the heads on removal, then, lifting straps on replacement. The straps look more comfortable/safe to me and less likely to damage. However, Omjgon has the straps hocked around all four engine mounts. Since my intension is to remove the engine with draive shafts still attached to the hubs and car, it looks like I may have to remove the rear engine mounts, which means I can't then attach the straps to the mounts (see my photos above of the CV's). I may be able to lift slighty then go forward away from the CV's up a little then back, but won't know until i try. Started fabrication of engine stand an need to get that ready. Will show dimensions and pictures shortly. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Over the last few days I have been building and engine stand and sorting the engine crane out. Will cover this once I have finished the thread on removing the engine, gear box connections and ready for lifting. Made a bit of a mess disengaging the gear shaft linkage despite Jim's warning on this. However, nothing broken, just a little more work to do. Will cover this in due course. Just the clutch cable and engine mounting bolts to go. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
last few slides on gear linkage issue. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is a fantastically professional looking presentation! Thank you very much. Just beautiful. Manny
Kevin - I believe I understand that you are going to remove the rear engine mounts to clear the half-shafts. This is not necessary. Do not remove the engine mounts before lifting the engine out of the car. The half-shafts will flex upward and provide ample room for the engine mounts to pass by. Am I understanding your comment correctly? In any event, I prefer nylon straps or nylon rope. Chains may scar the aluminum wherever they come in contact. A nylon strap under the main pulley (place the pulley back on with the bolt snug - not tight), and a nylon strap under the bell housing close to the block (where is will not slip off) will provide good pickup points. The gear shift "forks" are easy to align once the plate is off the bottom of the gear box. BE CAREFUL when removing the gear box plate as there are several detents controlled by springs, ball bearings, and cups. They will pop out when you remove the plate. In your case, since the engine will be out and the heads off, I would attack the gear box issue with the engine upside down. Looks like you are making great progress and learning/teaching a great deal. The 2nd time you do this it will go much faster. Jim S.
Thanks for the drive shaft clearance information Jim, I will now leave the mounts on. Just bought the straps and engine lift level. Waiting for a few more bits, then will cover the lift equipment lift ratings, dimensions, set up and engine stand. Kevin
Action over the last few days. Everything now disconnected and ready for lift. Lift will probably be next weekend. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And here is the engine stand. It is a bit posh, but wanted to be able to use is for other stuff as well. The engine will sit upright on its flat sump. Should be a nice working height. I will be covering the engine crane issues next. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login
Kevin Dont forget the engine mounting arrangement as you took off. If I remember correctly the Workshop Manual is wrong in the position of these mountings relative to the brackets!!! Nice stand by the way Dave
Kevin - it is such a pleasure to help someone out who actually reads, and then appreciates subtle comments vis-a-vis raising the engine a bit to help pull the clutch cable. This reduces the radius and allows a straight pull down. Just don't forget to do this as I have tried to lift an engine while forgetting to pull the clutch cable. Not a pretty sight. Your stand is worthy of a brandy snifter. Having fun yet? Jim S.
Thanks for the reminder Dave. I have previously had the engine mounts off the car with engine still inplace. I did this for cleaning and painting. I had taken plenty of photos, so at least knew how they were previosuly mounted on my car. However, spoted the difference in the manual and tried to put them back accordingly. I only noticed the issue when I cam to close the engine lid. It simply would not close. only 1/2" or so out, but confused the hell out of me for a day or two. Put them back as they were, problem solved. I wonder what else is wrong in the parts manual. Kevin.
Buy the tap from Dino parts.de at about $25 USD or for $2 at harbor freight as it is a standard air compressor drain valve plug. The Dino parts takes 17mm wrench, the HF takes a smaller one (15mm?) Alternatively, I avoid the engine plugs and just drain as much as I can from the radiator then refill with distilled water and drive it for several temp cycles then repeat and finally fill with a 50/50 mix. BTW - Your posts are embedded graphics, and although they look nice, they render the text non-searchable and a bit of a hassle to respond to requiring that I re-state what the topic was.
The engine is out. Went perfectly. Will load up step by step photos tomorrow. In the meantime, here are some of the preparation issues. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
