Disaster averted, but I still have a problem!

Hi Jim,

Just seen these updates to the thread since I last posted on this one.

What happened to you is absolutely exactly what happened to me and a few other folks I know.

I hope I am going to save you some time and frustration here, but your probably not going to like what I have to say........

Your cam drive gear has been slapping hard against the drive shaft and woodruff (evidenced by the damage) each time the engine rotates through the cycle, it is very likely that the tolerance between your cam drive and your drive shaft has gone out of tolerence (I really hope not for your sake, but based on your note above it seems you might). The only down and dirty way to check is to slide the cam drive back onto the shaft and ensure that to do this requires an "almost" a pressure fit between both parts. Do this with the shaft hole ( minus woodruff) and cam drive gear woodruff slot both in line. If it is not a pressure fit you have wear.

Secondly (and it is very difficult to do) you need to be sure that the movement of the cam drive in and out along the shaft ( as a result of the loose lock nut) has not worn the inner section of the threads on the shaft ( the only way to really check this is to take the other lock nut off the 1-4 bank and "feel" whether it takes the same amount of hand torque to tighten the same nut on both shafts, to the point of the lock nut section biting. If it is looser on one (even for part of the tightening), you probably have thread damage also.

There is not point in proceeding in trying to fix your engine if either of the above is the case without replacing the drive shaft, the cam drive gear and the lock nut and the belt. It will come loose again no matter what loctite you use, and you will find that the cam drive does not centre properly on the shaft and you will get (if you use a stet on the engine) a grinding sound from the lower bearing on the bank due to the non ovality of the cam gear on the drive shaft.

I grappled with this for 8 months with various "fix its" including proper cylinder tolerance materials from loctite etc, loctite on the threads/ new ock nut, trust me .... nothing works and you run the risk of more serious damage to your engine. Eventually I pulled the engine and had it fixed properly by Colin in Superformance in the UK, had high comp pistons put in at the same time (in for a penny in for a few thousand!!!), just got it back on Christmas eve.

I hope for your sake you have been more lucky than I was, please try all of the above before deciding a course of action.

I have a couple of spare pulleys and 4 spare shafts (none of which are new, but are usable, you are welcome to test them if you need parts, or have trouble finding them)

All the best

Tom

 

I believe that oil is intended to splash into the non-Sealed bearings,
that is why they have an external lip seal and not an internal one.

The SKF Italian Bearings I just purchased had seals like you show, but they are easily removed with a pick to the factory "Nonsealed" style.
Good luck,

Edwardo
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Be nice to know if the mechanic removed the rear seal from that bearing so it gets fresh lube as Edwardo mentioned. You might be thinking the newer cars have sealed bearings so no issue but those bearings are further out on the shaft so don't see as much load ... just a thought.

Sean

 

Thanks for sharing this ordeal.

 

You're in danger from Dairy Queen ice cream?


Glad you got your tick fixed.