Differential output seals

Good data with the part number. I did a search on the web, and the SFK part number states OEM, but not for what vehicle. I'll go to the local parts supplier with the SKF part number and compare the the price to what I get from Ferrari.

Do you have the part numbers for the bushings and rest of the job you did?

So far, it's been over 1 week just to do the CV boots. Long, leasure winter projects.

 

Scott (smg2) I have a question concerning yur comment
"and then using the porsche flange plate that keeps the cv grease in the cv. "
Do you have any photos of this flange plate or how it fits in the system? I just got all the CV Joint bolts out on Saturday and will be working on a list of the parts I need to replace.

 

I called around and nobody seems to have this seal, apparently it is discontinued.

skf 564129

The closest I found is one with a metal outer wall, not with the rubber wall shown in the picture. The lip doesn't seem to be the same.

Ferrari doesn't show part numbers. Where can I get it? I'd like to get an upgrade, if possible.

Thanks in advance.

 

Amazing. The same seal is $55 at Ferrari, $6.70 at Applied Industries and $3.60 at Motion Industries. All SKF. I'll have them next week.

 

I'm not trying to justify the parts price difference, but all seals are not created equal.

The Ferrari (Gaco Angus brand) is made of Viton and is directional...and typically has a soft outer dust shield protecting the actual lip seal. That's not to say that the difference is worth $50...

However, in a high heat application like a Boxer, I'd rather have the higher temperature material...

The same logic could be applied to using non-OE cam seals, where many alternatives exist at a much lower price. Considering the labor involved to change them...and the consequences of them leaking, I'd prefer an identical seal (of identical construction, type and material) before I'd replace it with a generic seal.

Of course...opinion may vary.


David

 

+1

Viton would account for a noticable portion for the price difference. The differential is going to be operating pretty close to the top of Nitrile's temp range:

Buna-N (aka: nitrile) is used in oil applications. Temperature range is -35° to +250° F.
Viton resists chemicals and oil. Temperature range is -15° to +400°

Given the amount of road & brake dust the differential is exposed to, I'd strongly want a 'double lip' seal (sealing + dust lips) that would keep dust away from the seal area to increase seal life, & to prevent dust from abrading the half-shaft flange surface the seal is working against.

 

The directional aspect of the OE seals is an important one.

Parts substitution is possible and with a savings too but way too often specs are ignored.

Ferrari did not spec a directional Viton seal by accident.

 

A double lip seal is my preference as well. I went through several catalogs and I could not find a metric seal with dual lips, rotational or higher material ratings than the proposed SKF seal. I'm following Brian's lead that his is not leaking.... after 1 mile.

I'm using RedLine in my transmission and the original 25 yearl old seals are not leaking. If the SKF seals leak, I'll let the list know.

 

I just purchased seals from TRutlands-- these do not have the double seal, but have a spring on the ID seal- anyone have a problem with these-- 78 308 gts- can provide pic is needed.

 

You are an absolute party ANIMAL!

 

pic of the seal sold by TRutlands
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Cam seals and crank seals I can understand being rotational, but diff seals??? What happens when you reverse the car then ?? cams and flywheel - crank always turn the same direction??? Just my 2 pence worth.
cheers
Mark

 

Unless your doing 50mph in reverse often then a directional seal on the diff output would make sense.

I find my diff seals leak if I take the car over 90mph but I'm over working on the car for a while and will just keep it under 90 till I'm more motivated or the leak gets worse.

Cheers

George

 

Brian - sent you PM

 

Brian, you said that you put a very thin layer of sealant on the out side of the oil seal before you pressed it in, i am ready to redo my driver side seal- what sealant did you use? I have the ultra black sealant for the spines and the bolt, but does the seal itself need additional sealent? or is that just to ease the press in process as a lubricant- then seal? All i hove found on the web is products like thread lock (blue, red, green)

does everyone use a sealant on the outsite of the seal?
I'm using the TRutland seals.
dave

 

I was about to replace the seal on the driver side- still not convinced that that was the source of the oil (very clean- but smells different from engine oil)leak. Once i had the car up on two floor jacks and fully underneth the car with mirrors and lights, i found that a) oil was not splatter all about. B) the flange at the differenctial was actually dry. My oil leak drips or flows down- straight down, it does not get spun around the flange. Before, i thought that the oil leak was the seal, and that it leaked on the outside of the seal, same as Brian's. But since the oil did not splatter or was not hitting the flange i'm not convinced it's outside seal. As far as i can see, the seal is also dry.

I think the source is at the diff -the workshop manual- see table 25, part 62 --does this make sence? Look at the third pic at the beginning of this thread. Once you take that last flange off with that bolt that Brian had trouble with-- there is the next part (part 62- i don't have the parts book in front of me to give you the actual part #)

Long story to get to my point,, what issues do i have here if i just take the bolts off? My thinking is that i just take the bolts off, apply new sealent- book calls for Hylomar- then rebolt- simple enough?

Then is see there are issues with "preloading" on assemble. Interesting, the workshop manual( for the gt4- can't find a real workshop book for a 308 gts) states that on reassembly, seal the housing, put on the end piece(#62 on the workbook) then preload it. Then is says to take off the item 62 with the spacer, apply the sealent again and reinstall the lateral piece.

I'm thinking that this lateral piece and the spacer(item 62 on the workshop book in table 25) can be removed, apply new sealent, then replace and torque it down is all that is required.

Is this too simple? or do i have major issues(for a weak mechanic) in removing, and just resealing?
thanks in advance
dave