you got to love the peel and stick CF. Chris, you missed ity AGAIN! Now you need to wait another 998 posts
Nooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Seth how could you???!!!!!!! It was my destiny to be the 2000 poster. Why man........................... WHY!!!
Regarding finishes....................... I have had very good results using Molykote-Multigliss. This fluid product is absorbed by the aluminium surface, my company uses it on aircraft parts which are not painted. Some guys with trials motorbikes at work use it on their engine castings and all the crap washes off real easy, even the salt on our roads doesn't get through if refreshed once a year. It is invisible (no yellowing or pealing like a clear coat will). It can be patched or re-done at any time with no dismantling necessary. Just a further choice and maybe worth reading the spec sheets, it is made by Dow Corning, I found it on their German website but not on the .com one. Try this for a start.......... http://www1.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/090007c880002d15.pdf Nick
Nick, Does it change the appearance at all? WD-40 darkens the part a bit, wheel cleaner tend to whiten a bit. I may pick up a bottle of wheel clearer and see how it looks after....I generally like this stuff and I'd be happier with a little less grey color to the part.
That was after mk e treated me to left-overs ;^) & a cold brew for dinner. That'll teach me to drop in on 45 minuites notice! Actually, The chicken goulash w/a side dish of vegetables was quite tasty, & really hit the spot after an 8+ hour drive in frigid weather! Mark, It really was nice to meet you after interacting via Fchat, eMAIL, & phone for so many years! Thanks for a wonderful visit & taking the time to show me around. 1st pic is mk e & Victor. BTW, Victor was also a great host, made sure mk e kept me well supplied with cold brews! When my bottle would go empty Victor would be pointing it out to daddy! I couldn't believe how big he is & how well he's getting around. He will be helping mk e in a couple more years fer shure! Then some pix of the shop & V12 in no particular sequence as I was wandering around & snapping at random. Thought I had a picture of the lathe & some other things, but guess I just thought I was going to take them(sigh)... Hmm, thought I'd taken some of the flow bench, but apparently I was too intent on discussing it with mk e. Nice piece of work, well thought out. Mark, thanks again for being a great host! Whenever you're in MA plan on coming over for dinner & some cold ones. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's what always happens....you see it on the news all the time, "he seemed like such a nice person, I had no idea what was going on in the basement over there"
This is insanity! I love it. You're living the dream, man. Can't wait to see the finished product, but the journey is fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to document and post, this is exactly what Algore invented teh Interwebs for!
Yeah, but looks can be deceiving! Rumor has it that he had to eat that poor child to get rid of any proof of what he is doing down there. Has anyone heard from Verell since he posted the pics yesterday at 10:03pm? I didn't think so..... LOL! JIM
You're going to need to bead blast and scotchbrite (with WD40) the paint on your car if it sits there much longer. Cheers, Paul
I got an email from the cam guy yesterday thanking me for my patience and telling me he should be able to get going on them in a couple more weeks. That should be good timing wise if it happens. I want to do the headers and intake before finishing the heads so I can flow everything as a set and it would be best to have the cam specs before selecting a header design .at least according the people at burns stainless who will run the engine through their software and recommend a header design but they need to know what cams it has among other things. Also I need the cams back and done before I can finish up the timing chain cover and all the other stuff on the front of the engine ....I love that the words finish up are finally creeping into the discussion
I'm pretty sure you're right, but it's all good becasue I've got a month of efi side job to do then back on my car I still need to heat treat and finish the drop gear parts, fix the drop gear cover to add the new bearing and move the existing one, make a flywheel cover with a crank trigger pick up mount, and mount the starter to FINISH the left side before I'm right to move back over to the right side when I'll need the cam.....so that's a solid 3 months (which means 4-6) I'd say before I need cams and that should exaclt match the cams guy "couple more weeks". And did you see? I used the word finish again
After seeing a monza block used to create a duplicate spare block, I can't help thinking about casting duplicates of your bell housing. Would save the guys bolting 400 motors to 904 transaxles in their 3x8s a lot of effort and expense. Will see if I can gather more info on how they copy cast the monza block. It might not be all that problematic a shrinkage problem.
It's not that hard to make copies. The way I would do it is to send the part to someone with a CMM (coordinate measureing machine) and have it digitized. From there the digital image goes into a cad program and can then be scaled for shinkage as well as fix a few things I did for easy of fabrication that aren't ideal or make it very difficult to cast. After that the mold can be do as and SLA (stero lithograph) or cut in wood, then I would be ready to make all the parts I want.....the problem is of course that I would never actually be able to sell more than 1 or 2 sets after having tied up $50k in tooling and minimun run quanties. There just isn't much call for these kinds of parts, even the bolt-on stuff doesn't really sell. I've build and sold 4 (3 1/2 really) superchargers in 8 years and now there are 2 offer guys making them who've each sold about 2....not a lot of volume. A 400 could and has been put in a 308 with a stock bellhousing, I just got a little crazy (ok, al ot crazy) lowering the engine, swapting drop gears for a better ratio and such.....this could be done a lot easier.
You ever decide to move out here, give me a jingle and I'll show you how to deal with them. Not a problem. We'd be honored to have that 308 wearing Cali plates!
I was on the phone a lot today ordering stuff for the side job, having the ecu plan for my car called into serious question(a long with my overall sanity for even trying this nonsense ), talking someone about 1/2 into trying the TR engine swap Newman nearly talked me into, and stuff like that. I was thinking the other day that distributors would really look the best.....oh to be at a point where it actually mattered.......
Being that I'm on the EFI side project that is using a haltech E8 I had to go download the software and manual .which lead to also downloading the manual and software for the latest and greatest haltech ecu. It's just coming out so the only thing they had on-line at this point was a plug and play version for the 350z, but it appears to be a major step forward for them. Hopefully they will have the full-blown version available for download soon. I was told the new unit will have a traction control feature and looking at the 350z software it does appears they've added the ability to read wheel sensors (required for traction control) and a host of other things. I've been really questioning how driveable this car is gong to be with 800hp when the 540ish hp version was already a handful and I was planning (and had started) to upgrade the ecu to add traction control to tame it a bit. Motec has all the stuff I would need, but it ends up very pricey because they charge extra for everything. You want to run 12 injectors? $500. You want a wide band O2? $500. You want data logging? $500. You want traction control? $500. The killer is those are just activation codes, the hardware is all the same so they charge you to use the hardware you already bought ..and I need 2 ECUs to run the engine the way I want to run it. I don't want to end up spending $10k of electronics but even more I don't want to do the electronics buying, wiring and tuning twice. The Haltech starts out about $1000 cheaper then the motec and comes standard with many of the features motec charges extra for (12 injector capable, wide band O2, data logging) .but motec has options available that no other ecu does. If I want to run 12 sequential injectors with the haltech the only ignition option is distributor (which I do like because an 80s engine should have a distributor to look stock), but the motec can run anything up to direct-fire coil on plug (with the purchase of additional hardware, $500 per 8 cylinders so I'd need 2). The motec has traction control for sure while the haltech is still a maybe at this point, but I could add a stand a lone traction control unit if I had to I guess .and a pair of VEMS ecus are still really cheap. I'll add this to the list of stuff I don't really need to worry about just yet .I get a little OCD about having a clear plan at times. The current project plan calls for me to find at least $10k and possibly as much as $15k for the car over the next 12-14 months while somehow maintaining domestic peace and harmony. Changing to haltech ecus would add about $2500, changing to motec would add about $4000-$6000 it looks like ..completely off topic, but did I even mention Lana was born in the year of the Dragon?
