Alright, to add to my problems, I now show codes: P1448 - Catalyst bypass flap circuit - malfunction P1451 - Secondary air pump circuit - short to ground along with my original problem: P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor Undervoltage I found http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108962 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115587 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115362 I removed the panel with the valves and airpump on it, cleaned all the connections and checked all the hoses. Everything looks fine, but I have no vacuum. When I pull one of the vacuum lines, I can't feel any suction. What is the best way to find a leak? Sorry...I'm not a mechanic. My bypass valve used to work fine, but now it is not engaging.
My guess for the by-pass valve issue is the 'silicone diaphram membrane' inside the canister may be split/ruptured and causing the vacuum leak ... ................... verify this by pulling the by-pass hose (engine off) then use a 'one man brake bleeder pump' to pull vacuum on it to see if the by-pass valve actuates ............ you can also use your mouth to do this ..... if it doesn't disgust you.
I verified that the bypass valve works fine. So you think it is a membrane in the large canister next to the air pump? Is there a way to verify this?
No, there is not membrane on the big reservoire, only the 'actuator' diaphram. If you have one of the plastic reservoires, it could be cracked. If that checks ok, then you may have a 'sticking' solenoid valve.
Tom, Is there proper vacuum going up to the solenoid valves? There reason I ask, is it could be an issue with the valves. Also, (if you are following the thread on the "water temp sensors"), there are issues with intermittent and failing Amp connectors, and that is what is used to connect power and control the solenoid valves.
There is no vacuum on the small hose going into the front of item #13. I also checked hose #35 right where the indicator in the drawing points. No vacuum there either. If I start pulling hoses off of the various locations while the car is running, could it damage anything?
Tom: This is most likely a stupid question, but have you used a multimeter to ascertain whether you are actually getting current at the auxiliary air pump, valves, etc. Check fuses and relay, also. As a EE, you've probably already done this, though. Off Topic: I feel so bad for all this BS happening to you. I noticed that you don't have a set of Scuderia Ferrari shields on your Spider. I have an extra set of Yoshi shields (the high quality, thick ones) at home, that I was going to sell on eBay. However, if you would like them, they're yours. I hope this may brighten your day somewhat.
Actually, the air pump seems to work fine at cold start. I haven't disconnected the wires to the valves with the car running yet because I wasn't sure if it would create other problems with the car. I am interested in the shields. Right now I have the resin ones because I didn't have the $$ for the Yoshi's.
Tom: Yeah, I think I paid around $300.00/pair for these Yoshi's. Please send me a PM with your shipping address and I'll mail them out to you tomorrow. I hope this somewhat attenuates all the problems that you've been having. Smile, brother, it can only get better. All the best, Scott
Actually ..... you will not get vacuum at #35 unless someone really gets on the throttle, as that line only gets vacuum to actuate the 'bypass valve' ...... and ........... #13 will only get vacuum during a 'cold start' for a short amount of time. So likewise you will not get voltage to the corresponding solenoid valves unless the former conditions are apparent.
So where is a good place to verify vacuum? Hose #33? Hose #37? Can I disconnect these while the car is running without causing problems?
Yes on #37 but there is no need to disconnect #33 ....... as that one is the 'cold start air pump' path to the exhaust manifolds. So if you disconnect #37 in a quiet environment you should hear a faint hiss of air rushing into the vacuum reservoire.
If you have no vacuum there could also be because of a leak or stuck non-return valves (item #20). As you can see on the diagram, a leak on the complete vacuum circuit may also affect the operation of the fuel pressure regulators (no vacuum means a too high fuel pressure at partial loads) ... are you running in closed loop at idle and are your LTFT parameters OK? If yes, the problem is probably after the NRvalves (including them), if no, the leak could be before the valves. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'll need to hook up my computer again to get the LTFT graphs and numbers and check to see if it is running closed loop. I'll try to do that tomorrow morning, but if I don't get to it, I'll have to do it next week. I'll be hitting the slopes at Lake Tahoe this weekend
Things seem to be going downhill. I disconnected 12 from 13 at cold start and verified by the change in sound that 13 was working. I reset the computer and P1448 came back immediately. I verified that the system was running closed loop and collected some data. I will send the data in a separate message. I removed, cleaned and reconnected all electrical connectors attached at #8. I reset the computer again and the code was gone. Went for a short drive. As soon as I started to accelerate (~6000RPMs), the engine sound changed. It seemed like it was missing out so I slowed down and went back home at about 2500RPMs. I checked the codes and now I get P1240 injector Circuit No. 4 (Bank I). Still no P0102 MAF undervoltage or P1448 bypass valve like I was getting before, but this sounds worse. Comments? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some more data from before the P1240 code. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I noticed some black oil drops on the driveway where I was letting the car warm up. So I checked the oil with the car running and hot and it was at the min line. I added oil and now it is about 2/3 of the way from the min to the max line. I remember something about a 2 finger rule, so now I'm thinking a may have added too much. Anyway, I think the P1240 code is more important for now.
It seems like my issue is almost exactly like the one in this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108962 in the posts by F355Bvc Except, I do not have hyperflows. I have stock cats, headers, and a Tubi exhaust. I also have four new O2 sensors (see http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201140 for all the drama with finding the correct, or I assume correct, O2 sensor part numbers from Bosch).
Tom, Please call Dave Helms and order his kit to refresh all the Amp connector pins and boots in your car. I had a long term issue with my cold start idle, and recently a pending code for #5 injector. I replaced every Amp connector pin (boots were replaced last year) in the past week, and now my car starts and idles perfectly cold, runs smoother than ever, and I will never have to worry about intermittent connections causing these annoying CE lights or codes. I used to clean and treat the connectors once a year but it was a hopeless exercise, and worked for a while, but this is a permanent solution. Gold plated connectors, and new, thicker silicone boots that fit tighter to the wire loom, sealing out moisture.
Yea, I've been talking with Dave Helms for a while now. I have been waiting for his kits to come in. Now I am just waiting to see the installation manual that he is finishing up so that I can verify that I can perform the work myself. What makes me nervous about the injector code is that the car started running very roughly as soon as the code showed up. The exhaust has a much choppier sound now. Anyway, I hope to order the connector kit this week.
Tom, If I can handle it, it will be no problem for you. I am probably one of the least qualified people here. Just go for it, if you need any assistance, I would be happy to give you my cell number. Dave
Two other possible causes to check when the bypass valve is inop. Having not read the whole thread, maybe you have done this already. I have seen numerous times where someone swaps the small hose connections in the lower area in the right rear where the one small hose is spliced with a small plastic inline splice and where the hose meets the aluminum tubing, easy mistake to make and a bugger to find. Make sure the routing in this area is correct. Second, look at the plastic splice....I have seen them melt and seal off any airflow at all. The kit was refined to the point where anyone with patience and the want to do things properly can do the job. Its not for everyone, takes time, patience and the end results are proportional to the effort put into it, for some it is best left to a trusted mechanic. Hugh has helped a great deal with this regarding suggestions of items to include to make things even easier. Its easy for a tech to overlook these little details as we walk to the tool box and just grab a tool that many likely do not have at hand. With feedback from two DIY blind testers, I believe this is now refined to a point where it is truely viable. I would have prefered to have made this available many months ago but having it perfect the first time was more important to me than shipping them out early. I am quite pleased with the results we have seen with this kit installed properly and are now doing it as a preventitive measure when the engines are out. Dave
