Guys; If I vacuum out the old fluid from the master cylinder and perform a standard two person brake bleeding to replace as much as possiable of the old fluid do I need to bleed the clutch also? I know they share the same fluid but I have read so much on how tough the clutch bleeding can be and how air can be a bear to get out of the line as it has hills and valleys. If the clutch is not depressed while I perform the fluid change and brake bleed do I need to also bleed the clutch. I know I should bleed the clutch but I don't want some great amount of air sucked in as I bleed the brakes. I searched all the posts and very few say how easy it is to bleed the clutch.
Yes clutch fluid should be freshened up. I'll always remember getting some nasty blackish crap from a 355 one time. A pressure bleeder works the best, such as an Ammoco (see link), but it can be done with the two man operation. The biggest impediment to the two man operation is that the hose from the fluid reservoir to the master cylinder goes up above the level of the feed on the reservoir and traps air. I just tucked the hose down during the operation and it worked but took a lot of pumping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ammco-High-Pressure-ABS-Brake-Bleeder-7301-NEW_W0QQitemZ220353619488QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item220353619488&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
I did the "two man" brake/clutch bleed Chris. Was VERY easy to bleed the clutch brother. Here are some pics. Have the key on, bleed the brakes starting from the wheel furthest from the master clyinder. Then bleed the clutch. They share the same master clyinder so keep an eye on the fluid level. Here are some random pics. I flushed my old fluid out 6 months ago. It was the 1st time the fluid was flushed since the last major.........5 years ago. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Bleed the clutch too. make sure to not allow sucking air in because the clutch inlet is about 1.5" below the cap on the reservoir. Also only open the clutch bleed 1/4 turn because it is so lame it sucks air too. Fill res to the top and bleed out about 4oz and by then you should see clean fluid. If not stop and refill and do it until clean. If you suck air then you got problems but they are easy to fix just post back here and we'll tell you how to fix it. No big deal.
Agree, if you change the fluid in the brakes it is a good idea to do the clutch as well, not a big deal. If you get an air lock in the clutch and it wont come back from bleeding the rear bleeder, try cracking the connector it the left rear wheel arch. This apears to be the highest part of the clutch system after the cylinder and seems to attract air.
Thanks for all the good info. I ordered a Motive power bleeder to get all that nasty fluid out. It should also help with the clutch which some think is very hard to bleed as anything more than 1/4 turn allows air back in. Pap that fluid looks like Coke apporiate that you used that bottle. I bet I can give you a run for the money. I have a sick feeling that mine is about the same. I will post pictures once I get the new bleeder.
I use one of these for all my brake / clutch flushes: http://store.motiveproducts.com/shared/StoreFront/product_detail.asp?RowID=34&CS=motive&All=
Side note(s) on the power bleeder Test the seal between the bleeder cap and the fluid reservoir before filling up with fluid. Just attach and pump up, see if the pressure holds. I've talked to people who never fill their bleeder with fluid, just use it to pressurize the system. IMO kind of defeats the main purpose. Check the line with each use - leaky hose on the bleeder will make a mess. Has not happened to me after five years of abuse, I've heard of it happening to other people Do not over pressurize. My background is mostly with the Porsche 928 which has a very difficult clutch to bleed. The feed line to the master is gravity fed, no hose clamp. Too much pressure it blows off making a mess and a real pain to replace. Maybe the 355 doesn't have an issue like this, better safe then sorry. IIRC 10-15psi is what most recommend. If the system is really stubborn, sometimes I still have to pump the brake / clutch to get things moving along better. Just watch the fluid level.
