348 Front rotor removal !@#$%^

Finally decided to replace my front rotors. Got past the fact that Ferrari makes it harder by hardmounting the brake lines, thus forcing the bleed to be done afterwards, but the gol-darn ding-dang furshlugginer rotors don't want to come off. (Yeah, I removed the two mounting bolts.) Any secrets here? WD40 done, prybar firmly applied done, heat next? BFH? TNT? Enzo lube? KY? Any suggestions glady taken.

 

This kind of depressed me reading this as it was one of the things I was going to attempt this Fall...hmmmm.
MB

 

A BIG ****EN HAMMER!!

 

ditto

 

Really? I'd just cringe looking at a hammer anywhere near such a car!

If you must, then mind you don't hit anything unintended with your swing.

All the best,
Andrew.

 

When you say the 2 mounting bolts I assume you mean the caliper mounts?

If so have you disconected the line and pushed the pads back? Otherwise it aint going no where....

 

A big hammer with some big hits is about the only way to get them off without damaging them!

Have tried various large pullers, but they just bend the pullers arms. I dont think I ever got one off using a puller.

99% of the time I get them off by bashing them with a big copper hammer, without damaging them.

A few times before Ive had to oxy cut them off because they are seized to the hub.

I have also hit them before to get them off and they have cracked in half like a cookie! Done that many times before too.

 

+1 ....... Is there pressure in the line? I would loosen the caliper bleed screw then try to open or remove the pads altogether. Then carefully pry the caliper out.

 

I think he means the bolts/dowels on the front of the rotor.

 

Im sure Plugz has removed the caliper!!

 

Eeeee-yeppppp. Maybe I'll just use these rotors til the vanes show. They should really grip then! $%^&*

 

Big assed copper hammer, hit from the outside on the edge of the rotor in multiple places, you don't have to hit it that hard, just get it vibrating to break the corrosion bond.

 

Ok another procedure not quite as brutal to try.

Normal operation brakes get hot (no... really..?), then they expand and leave a small gap between the disc and hub.

This gap fills with brake dust/rust/crud when the disc cools down the gaps close up and freeze the whole lot together..... the more energeticly the brakes are used the more dust and heat so the harder they grab the hub.

You just neeed to reverse the procedure.

Get a can of "freeze & release" an oxy set or lpg torch and a pair of welding gloves.

Heat the disc flange (I think you call it the "hat" it the US), up black hot spray the "hub centre only" with Freeze & release and pull it off, may take a couple of goes but should work.

 

If l get that off in 2 minutes you buy me breakfast at Joe's?

 

Yes, but only a normal size breakfast-less than a pound of food!

 

Hahahaaaaaaaa!!!!!

 

.............. oops .............. ok then it is time to soak it with some penetrant ......... hit it as one rotates the rotor ..........

 

OK...leave it the way it is and I'll come by Thursday for breakfast. I can be there about 9:30am. I'll get that thing off... promise. Any you other stooges want to have breakfast?

 

Time for a measured application of violence.

The biggest dead-blow hammer you can find, hit it repeatedly while rotating.

 

I have to work or I would be there for sure.
I am planning on changing my rotors out in a few months with Bruce's help hopefully so it's good he is getting it perfected.

 

Hmm, I might make it, but I ain't chippin' in for the fbb's breakfast tab.

 

I wouldnt either........unless you want to wash dishes out the back for a week to pay for it!

That dont call him FBB for nothing!

 

Some guys have sandwiches named for them. FBB has a whole section of the restaurant dedicated to him.

 

Lol lol lol!!

 

Pap... How many bars have sections named after the Papster?