OH No My Rear Window Is Flaking

Your post doesn't say if your rear window is an original, laminated glass window with a built-in defroster grid, or if it's a replacement window made out of some kind of plastic. I can't think of any reason that an original window would "flake" apart. They come delaminated sometimes, but that only gives the cloudy look to it.

 

If it's an original glass rear window, it should have a Ferrari emblem and a "Sigla" brand etched on the bottom center, and defroster lines embedded between the layers (at least my 348 rear glass has these features, I would think that the 355 is the same, but I don't for absolute certain).

I suppose you could do something like the "hot pin" test to see if it's plastic.

 

Any photos? Maybe someone put a clear UV blocking film of some sort on there? Sounds like it is plastic from the description of the symptoms, maybe a competition window if they were available? Any info in the service history?
BT

 

I just replaced my glass / defrost 348TS rear window with a Challenge window. The glass window had the defrost vertical lines in it and had the Ferrari "Sigla" brand etched into it. The Challenge window has no "Sigla" or other markings. Plexi will not delaminate or flake, so my guess is you have glass. It should be easy to tell if the rear is glass or plexi with a simple tapping with your knuckle. If you need to replace the glass let me know, I just went though this install.

--Mike

 

my rear glass is starting to delamanate to, why dont you post a pic of the problem so others can see it.

 

I bought a plexi rear window as a standby, but haven't installed it yet. Is it a DIY job, or only meant for a specialist?

Thanks in advance!

 

While I love doing my own work, in this case I would defer to a specialist who has the proper tools and experience to remove the OEM glass window without damaging the window mounting channels or interior trim pieces. I've heard the OEM adhesive is tenacious and the windows can be a real b!tch to remove.

 

You can do it yourself, I just did. I would never attempt a glass window do to cost, but the Plexi install is not bad. You have to remove all of the rear interior parts and the outer surrounds. I was able to remove the old window without hassle and keep the OEM moulding for reuse. Let me know if you need help.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229872

--Mike

 

It's glass. You have, what I believe glass techs call, crazing. It's (generally) due to a defect during the manufacture of the laminated safety glass (e.g., improper cooling). I really don't think there is too much you can do with it, but you might try using the kits they sell for machine polishing automotive glass (I think Griot's Garage has one). You just may be able to polish out the superficial layer of crazed glass so it looks at least tolerable. I've never seen such a bad case of crazing on such a "new" car. You're probably going to have to replace the window.

BTW, notice how it's the worst at the areas of the acute bends.

 

Acrylic/Lexan/Plexiglas does not craze, it is a homogeneous polymer. It scratches, it will get a white haze on its surface, and it will form white "ghosts" if it is over-bent. You can follow Jeff's initial suggestion and heat a common pin (held with pliers) with a lighter and touch it to some obscure area of the window. You can also try to gently tap on the window using a metallic object - if it's Plexiglas it will have a dull sound compared to glass.

 

Although I would like to agree with Scott, I think you have a layer of film applied to the outside of your glass and this is whats peeling. It is a easy way to a tint or UV protection film to be applied to such a complex window (read, lazy tint installer)

I had this exact problem on my BMW and just use a nice new razor blade to remove the plastic film and all was well. This is what I think it is from the photo's, give the razor a try, nothing to loose.

 

Wow, James you might be right! Good reasoning! I didn't think of some lazy window tinter not wanting to apply the tint to the inside of the window due to the really tight bend. How long did he think the tint would last when exposed to the elements? Although the OP did say he has tint on the inside, maybe it was also applied to the exterior of the window. I hope for his sake it is just window tint material.

 

I wish I took photo's of the BMW window, it look exactly like the photo above. I know a few tint installers, very possible they took the easy route. Could also be a UV cut film that was applied to the outside, if it lasted a couple of years it was good value compared to the extra cost of labour to apply it to the inside. The film its self is cheap compared to the cost of the labour to apply it.