355 reassembly | Page 7 | FerrariChat

355 reassembly

Discussion in '348/355' started by tashier, Feb 9, 2009.

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  1. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean

    For me axle nuts can be a gamble. Sometimes they come right off with my impact, sometimes they don't. If they don't then it can be a huge job with big cheater bars etc. Since I haven't done Ferrari before I skipped it. Taking the hubs off was a piece of cake.

    I am NOT dissassembling the CV's, nor touching the bearings. Just putting in fresh grease.

    FUEL LINE GASKETS? Not sure what you're referring to.
     
  2. nunov

    nunov Rookie

    Oct 26, 2006
    42
    #152 nunov, Feb 27, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You will have to remove the metal part to get the boot out which will expose the entire bearing assembly... you should clean it all out. The old grease should be taken out if you want it done right. Also inspect the bearing while you are at it, look for wear spots that can hang the bearings. Someone else has posted some great pictures in the past on the forum. Look for cv boots, I think it was on a 348. If you need I have some great documented photos when I did them last.

    There are two very delicate gasket when you attempt to put the fuel lines on top of the engine back.. they press fit in then clamp in place... Make sure you dont score them as you will leak fuel. The vaseline will help them in case they start to pinch. You will know when you get there. One is high pressure and the other is low to the fuel rails.
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  3. nunov

    nunov Rookie

    Oct 26, 2006
    42
    Oh I did not tell you before you need to remove the ring buried on the grease after you pry off the end so that the boot slides out. You got the right kit with the ends on it right?
     
  4. 288gt-uh-oh

    288gt-uh-oh Karting

    Dec 30, 2006
    91
  5. nunov

    nunov Rookie

    Oct 26, 2006
    42
  6. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    I already have the caps and the boots off with the CV's still assembled. Didn't need to take them apart. I got the kit with the caps from Ricambi.

    Manual says Molykote BR2. I didn't look at the tubes in the box yet. If they aren't compatible then yes I will have to clean them out. :(

    I think I MIGHT know what you are referring to on the fuel line gaskets, if it's what I'm thinking then they are already damaged. There was a small very thin metal gasket in the bags of parts I got from the shop. Looks like a pull tab from a can of soda and paper thin. I didn't know what it was but maybe this is it? If so, I will need new ones for sure.
     
  7. nunov

    nunov Rookie

    Oct 26, 2006
    42

    I dont remember them being metal.. they are small rubber diameter of a dime... yes dont reuse them, get new ones for sure.. its cheap insurance a leak there is gravity away from the headers.

    Cleaning the joints is not big deal you have done all the hard work. just messy.
     
  8. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    Maybe you could point them out on a Ricambi parts diagram?
     
  9. nunov

    nunov Rookie

    Oct 26, 2006
    42
  10. nunov

    nunov Rookie

    Oct 26, 2006
    42
    #160 nunov, Feb 27, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  11. enginefxr

    enginefxr Formula 3

    Aug 20, 2007
    1,753
    S&R Exotics
    Full Name:
    Gary Sharpe
    Yes,
    I feel like what we're doing valve/guide/liner and piston wise will be a long term fix to the common problems on these cars. When you go from a liner coating a few microns thick to a coating .008-.012" thick, it can't be all bad. Add in better guides, better valve materials and lighter pistons with a better ring package, I think they'll run for a long time without issues. I wouldn't have invested so much time in parts development if I didn't feel like we were offering a MUCH better product.
     
  12. jetfixr

    jetfixr Formula 3

    Jun 14, 2007
    1,016
    northeast
    Full Name:
    Gone
    #162 jetfixr, Feb 27, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

    Jan 3, 2004
    4,629
    Full Name:
    Dave Helms


    another perfectly good thread.....jetfixr blowing through the side of a community 8 holer in his redsled. Tip them...yes, but drive through them?

    Where's Cooter?
     
  14. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    Anyone tell me where to find or what are the torque specs for the exhaust headers? I don't see any exhaust section anywhere in the WSM or torque specs for it.
     
  15. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
    Sponsor Owner

    I would think 25Nm... but that's just my educated guess.
     
  16. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    All I can say is for a car who's engine has to come out a lot, they don't make it easy. Feeding that harness through was not fun. Even worse were the radiator hoses. I removed the rear lid for a better view and after looking at the hoses it was enough to call it a day. I think I may be regretting putting on the air plenums, fuel lines and P/S reservoir because there is NO friggen room to get your hand in there to connect those. I might pull that stuff off tomorrow unless there is an easier way. Dunno how the pros do it but I'm sure it's a closely guarded secret.
     
  17. 288gt-uh-oh

    288gt-uh-oh Karting

    Dec 30, 2006
    91
    awww...cutie pies...You should get shots of the kids with wrenches in hand going about their "work" putting the engine back together. It'd be hilarious. Little tyke mechanics wrenching on their first car, a Ferrari!
     
  18. jetfixr

    jetfixr Formula 3

    Jun 14, 2007
    1,016
    northeast
    Full Name:
    Gone


    Yep, its a pain. But with a lift and my *special* cradle I am actually able to fully secure all hoses to the engine and lower the chassis down to the engine all the whille slipping the hoses on the chassis connections.
    Without a lift you may have a tought time hooking these up. Good luck....You're almost there!
     
  19. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean

    I was thinking about that method this morning, however I've got every bolt in already and those front mounts are pretty tough to get some of them in. I should have started those hoses going on when the chassis was a couple of inches away and inched them on like you do.
     
  20. nunov

    nunov Rookie

    Oct 26, 2006
    42
    Take off the rear deck.. it will make things easy. Now you know what I was saying about spraying the hoses with silicone. It will make the job a whole lot easier.
     
  21. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    Yes, took the read deck lid off, first thing I did. Then pulled off the fuel lines and PS reservoir. The removed all the radiator hoses from the engine side. With all this out of the way I wrestled the ECU harness up enough until I was able to get the rubber grommet in the hole near the ECU. Connected the ECU and other stuff behind the seat. Then starting from the bottom essentially installed each radiator hose after lubing it up generously with silicone lube. They actually went on without too much difficulty, though I did manage to ram the back of my hand into something and now it's swollen and bruised. Both my hands are pretty scratched and cut up now. Then I made a boo boo. The small 1/4" line coolant line had a cracked end which I thought I could just trim off. After doing so I looked at it and thought 'what the hell'. Inside diameter is now like 1/16" a half inch or so in. Not just regular 1/4" hose. Now it won't fit on the stub. Need to order another one... Just one of those things about being a newb I guess.
     
  22. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    Can't upload any more pics. I am maxed out I guess with my free membership.
     
  23. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    #174 tashier, Mar 1, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  24. tashier

    tashier Formula Junior

    Sep 8, 2008
    573
    Oregon
    Full Name:
    Sean
    #175 tashier, Mar 1, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Two connectors, two different CAT temp control modules and no way I can tell which one for what. I am guessing the modules may be the same but they are different colors, better to be safe and not assume. Anyone know what module is what and which connector goes where?
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