What type of oil and coolant for 355?

The F355 came from the factory with, Shell Helix Ultra SAE 5W-40 (API SH/CD CCMC G5/PD2).

The car also came from the factory with, Shell GLYCOSHELL coolant mixed at 50/50.

 

I have used Redline oil for about 15 years in my fcars and use BMW coolant with a bottle of water wetter. I use the water wetter more for the extra additives, ie; lubrication for the water pump seals. The oil weight I use is 5-30, my car is a CH and has 2 large oil coolers it takes a little longer for the oil to get to operating temp so I have used the lesser weight but for your car I would use the 5-40 stuff. I used that weight in the 348 seemed to be fine. Always be careful not to rev the engine to much past 3000 until the oil gets warm, remember you have 9 qts you are warming it takes awhile.
Also think any good syn oil is fine, everyone has their brand preference so use the brand you like but I would use synthetic vs, conventional.

 

Has anyone discovered a reasonably priced source for these Shell products??

 

I have had about ten years of experience with Mercedes coolant. The mechanic that did the last major on the car had never seen such a clean cooling system. And I have also been using the coolant in about five other Benz's without corrosion. I am not religious about changing the stuff. FWIW.

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr

 

Nope. The couple times I have had the oil changed at the dealer I noticed it foams like crazy, making it difficult to read on the stick. I am going back to Mobil 1 very shortly, as I am due for change.

And same for the oil filter, there are no cross references, so you must use the factory Purflux filter.

Most that are changing their own oil are using Mobil 1 0w-40 synthetic. A few others are using Redline, Amsoil, Motul, or Valvoline synthetic 5w-40.

 

Thanks Dave:

Yes, I tried to cross-reference the Purflux filter - no way. I am leaning to Redline for engine and gear lube. Although I read Dr. Ali Hass's post and I live in a warm climate, I think I'm going to stick with 5W-40 for the engine. Brake fluid - probably Motul. Coolant - Mercedes pre-mix with Redline "Water Wetter". Do those seem like logical choices to you? I've also purchased the Hill Engineering oil filter wrench, spark plug wire puller, and shock wrench.

 

Need it? No, but it does make life easier and you can snug the filter down perfectly with even pressure being applied around the entire circumference of the filter gasket. Just my opinion.

 

My thought as well. I have been using a simple rubber strap wrench to remove/install the filter for the past four years, but recently went and bought the Hill Engineering wrench from Daniel at Ricambi. Figure it wouldn't hurt to be able to use a torque wrench and install it exactly right.

 

Contact your engine builder as to what type of oil he requires you use.

Usually that is not an open choice.

 

I have been using 0w40 mobil one (5 k change interval) and honda 5 year coolant ( change it every 2 years) in the 355.
If I track the car I use 5w50 mobil one....in your climate....I would probably use the 5W50 wt in the summer and 0W40 wt in the winter.

 

I swear by Motul... very expensive but really shows its worth when you break an engine down and compare. The Challenge teams use it. I have a video of a great Ferrari Factory trained mechanic raving about the oil.

Mercedes Coolant, great lubricating properties.

 

15/50 Mobil One Synthetic Motor Oil.

 

I highly recommend Mercedes-Benz coolant is it is phosphate-free and contains buffers that hold the pH neutral for about 3 years. This is very important as high pH (alkaline) coolant and/or coolants that contain phosphates can eat away at aluminum parts and cause embrittlement of plastic cooling system parts.

I also think it is very important to mix your antifreeze with distilled water that can be bought inexpensively at Walmart to keep minerals from forming deposits reacting with the different metals in your cooling system.

IMO, money saved by putting in a less expense coolant is often lost in the long run with clogged and corroded components replacement, possible overheating, and additional coolant flushes.

 

+1 on the Mercedes stuff. Not too expensive.

As for oil, just stay away from anything labeled GF4. That's the "new" standard with low ZDDP levels which some "experts" claim is not the best for cars with flat tappet lifters.
On the flip side, some are blaming zinc for the premature failure of catalytic converters, which is why new oils are having the zinc (ZDDP) levels lowered.

My solution? Yank the CATS off and run a high zinc oil YMMV

Here is an interesting comparison:

Part 1

Part 2