355 ENGINE OUT (with 4 post hoist) THE SAFE WAY with pictures

And this is the mod to the flanges mentioned above.
The output pipe on the race tubi is aproximately 2 1/8" - 2 1/4".
By cutting off both ends of the generic flange (and welding in flat steel to restore the flanges integrity )....the overall width of the flange is reduced to aproximately 4 3/8".
This reduces the overall muffler width by about 7/8 ".
And this allows the muffler to slide in and out effortlessly.
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This mod not only eliminates the need to remove the rear bumper for service......but it allows you to angle the tips to your exhaust opening in the bumper.
The race Tubi tips are very large and there is perhaps only 3/8" clearence around them.
Many here have complained about their Tubi tips not aligning with their bumper openings (the cure is to cut off the tips and reweld them in the correct location).
With my mod, the tips can be angled up/down about 1/4" (then tighter 2 bolts) allowing your tips to perfectly fit the exhaust opening.
And if you wish to install a new set of stainless tips?......just pickup another flange, weld it to your new tips and you have updated your exhaust with no re&re of the muffler.

 

Your welcome......I have found several other issues that could cause driveability or emissions issuses with these cars and will post photos.

 

Anytime, I will post more photos as I get the motor ready for re-installation.
I am still waiting for one more part (waterpump)....and this has put everything on hold,

 

In the last major service the mechanic bent the aluminun air injection pipe (which goes to the exhaust manifolds)...which resulted in it rubbing on the exhaust y pipe.
The subsequent rubbing between the air injection pipe and the exhaust y pipe caused the air injection pipe to suffer a hole.
This results in a cold emissions failure .....(& possible intermittent check engine light on obd 2 cars).
This will not affect driveability once the motor is warm however.
It is simple to repair.....I just bent the pipe back straight and then welded the hole shut.
Note: this is also easy to check with the motor in the car.
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Its being refinished as we speak.

 

The silicone lines (10 in total) from the plenum chamber to the intake manifold may appear to be ok but on close examination I found that 2 of the 10 had split where they slide on to the fittings.
I went to the dealer and they quoted me $49.00 each (x10)????

Instead I went to the local hot rod shop and purchased bulk silicone line used for high performance motors for around $4.00 foot. Oh and you can get it in black,white, red, yellow or blue.

I didnot notice this problem when casually looking into the engine bay but the hoses are easily checked/replaced with the motor in by removing the inner fender liners.
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Thanks Mario,
I would like to finish this asap but am still waiting for a replacement waterpump.

 

I found that some (2) of the 4 vacuum lines had split as well......checked all and replaced all 4.
While I did not notice any driveability problems it was just a matter of time till I did.
The lines looked like they were the original lines in the car.
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The 348 & 355 targa's and coupes can develop paint stress cracks where the buttress panel joins the fender panel.
As I was planning to do my own engine out this winter, I decided to inquire at the F dealer about my car and was advised that some coupes and targas did indeed develop paint cracks during the engine out service while the car sat apart on the hoist for a week or two. Some here believe that tracking the car may cause the stress cracks as well.
The dealer was advised by Ferrari to weld the inner fender/buttress panels if this problem occured.
Sure enough my car, at the first service in 2000, developed the paint cracks and the F dealer welded the inner fender prior to bodywork and paint (blew in the panel).

I decided to look for the welds and thought I would find a nice mig or tig weld the full length of the inner buttress/fender area(this is what I would do ) but rather I found a rather crude spot weld (every inch or so) for the full length of the buttress.
Regardless the weld works, so the cosmetics are irrelevant.

I noted that the paint on the welds after 9 years was starting to flake....to prevent any rust... I used a scrub pad and brake cleaner to clean up the area prior to etch primer and final paint coat.
I am enclosing pictures of the panel and welds for those of you who may have this problem or will have this problem when your next service is done......to fix it once and for all.

Well, its been 9 years since the repair, I also track my car, and the paint cracks have not returned
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I guess the F dealer is not sharing this information with its customers which is a shame because the repair certainly works.

 

They are not running a solid bead of weld.....rather they are putting spot welds at 1-2 inch intervals in the seam of the two panels with regular cooling off periods between the welds to minimize heat damage.
They are not using any reinforcing metal either.
I'm not aware if they used a heat-absorbing material to minimize the heat damage to the painted surfaces but as the crack in the paint was already there (before the welding was to be done).....it was necessary to do bodywork and repaint in my case to the finished paint work.
If the crack is not in the paint and you wish to add the spot welds to prevent future paint cracking occuring......I don't see how you could avoid damaging the finished paint surface.
You would have to expect to refinish the seam and blow in the affected area.

 

There is full access to spot weld the inside of the panels even with the engine in- but there would be too much heat with the resultant paint damage.....so repainting (blowing in) the outside fender/buttress will be required.

 

If you are re-using your old hydraulic tensioners you need to re-pin them to install your new tbelts.
I installed new hydraulic tensioners on this service but I used a c-clamp to compress the old tensioner to allow the insertion of the pin to show how it can be done with out damaging the tensioner.
Note:if you don't have the pins, you can use what I used, turkey roaster skewers from the dollar store.

Once you have installed the hydraulic tensioner, tbelt & pulley you will need to adjust the play.

First insure that your cam timing marks are lined up/ install the tbelt taking care to remove all the slack from the left side between the cams and lower pulley & the cam shaft pulleys.......then install the tensioner pulley loosely.
The hydraulic tensioner setting is 2.5mm but with the pin installed in the hydraulic tensioner the gap is 2.3mm.

Pull the pin out about half way (do not remove entirely)...this allows more play in the tensioner.....take a pair of common needle nose pliers (you DONOT need any special tools) and insert the tips in the 2 holes on the pulley and turn it very lightly until you get a meaurement of 2.5 mm with your feeler gauge. Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt.
Remove the pin from the hydraulic tensioner and turn the motor over a full rotation and line up your timing marks again....recheck the original marks on the cam shafts.... and if ok ....remeasure the hydraulic tensioner gap to make sure it is still at 2.5mm.
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When installing the o-rings (4) in the 355 cam covers the orings can be difficult to install because they are too small and the slots they sit are very slight.
As a result, they keep popping out of position before the cam cover can be installed and if installed out of position motor oil will leak into the spark plug galley.

One has to stretch the orings with out stretching them too much ....and the easy way to stretch them is to go to any sewing store and obtain some serger thread on a cone......toss the thread and use the cone to stretch your seals.
The oring seals are stretched perfectly evenly in about 30 seconds.....install the 4 orings and very carefully install the cam cover and your done.

I also used this same cone to stretch the 'triple' seals on the transmission output shaft when doing my clutch replacement a couple of years ago.
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