355 ENGINE OUT (with 4 post hoist) THE SAFE WAY with pictures

install left hydraulic lines, air conditioning lines, left fan and parking brake cable.
install right hydraulic lines and oil cooler lines to sump.

At this time also install the electrical connections in both the wheelwells including the ground wire for the oil tank sump on the inside frame above the alternater.
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Thanks for keeping us updated.

I have been think about getting a lift like that but was hesitant because I "thought" I wouldn't have been able to pull my engine with it. But now thanks to your awesome post my thinking has changed.

Awesome job.

 

Thanks Ernie,
The 4 post hoist works perfectly for the 355 (or 348) engine out service.
The only thing I regret is that I waited so long to pick one up.
I'll continue to post photos showing the completion of the install.
Chris

 

Chris, if you have the time, could you please check the clearance/space between ur waterpump pulley and the fiberglass protection wall in front of it? You can see the exact point in this picture.

It would be interesting to see how much space you have there in your car. I had a problem with mine, the wall was scratching against the pulley, and made a stressful noice. This was one of the reasons i decided to get my engine out(among with other things).

Pic:

Kimmo/Sweden.
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Can do, will advise tomorrow

 

Chris is there a reason why you did not hook everything up when the car was in the engine out position? You would not have the hoist rails in your way (I can see doing it for safety reasons). Great work-you make it look easy.

 

Hey Mario,
There is really no reason not to complete some of the hookup in the 'engine out' position.
It can be done either way.

But there is one point though: you should not use the hoist to lift the ENTIRE car WITH powertrain installed in the 'engine out' position.
However, with the entire car now centred on the main hoist I can use the hoist to raise/lower the car to gain access under the car....... which makes it much easier to finish the install.

 

I measured the clearence on my waterpump pulley (to the fiberglass panel) and on the right side of the pulley there is 7mm clearence and on the lft side of the waterpump pulley there is 10mm clearence. The steel bracket in the middle of the panel/opposite the pulley reduces the clearence about 5 mm ......so this is the minimun clearence.
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closeup of right side of waterpump pulley
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Thank you for taking your time.

I suspected this... In fact, i think this is really a issue that needs to be looked into. Several people with 355:s have a strange noise when starting the car(especially when engine is cold), and get scared that something is badly wrong with their engine. I had the noice, and people were speculating all over the place, but when i examined the whole concept, i found that my fiberglass shield had schratched aginst the waterpump pulley. Im 99,9% sure this was my bad noise.

So for those that are planning to take the engine out - check this too. Just a tip.

Now - back to my exhaustbuisness... Im in the garage and taking measurements, and constructing this...

Regards, Kimmo / Sweden.

 

When I installed the power steering resevoir I noted it was seeping at the cap.
There is a common problem (caps don't tighten properly) with these early cars and there was a fix in the form of a new resevoir design.
So I removed the original resevoir and ordered the new p/s resevoir (from Ricambi) .

The new design is much superior and should not leak or seap p/s fluid.
The coolant overflow resevoir is also installed at this point (with new hoses).
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Install electrical connections in right engine bay and left engine bay. The wires with a white cloth tape on them are the ones that are disconnected /reconnected.
Also installed the air injection pipe.
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Installed the shifter rod.
Tip: to remove the shift rod you disconnect one bolt at the front mount and one bolt at the rear mount .
Loosen one nut at rear mount and spin off bracket (if you donot do this you will not be able to remove the rod from the car).
BUT, make sure you RECORD (mark it with paint pen) the position or you will throw out your shifter adjustment.
What I did was back off the lock nut half a turn/ mark the orientation of the rod and rear bracket and then spin it off.
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What a GREAT thread!

 

Isn't it though.

 

Thanks guys, Chris

 

The brake bleeding process is fairly straight forward.
The front brakes will not need bleedng as they are a seperate system, however, you SHOULD bleed the entire system so that there is fresh fluid through out.

First add about 3/4 of dot 4 synthetic brake fluid to the resevoir.
To bleed the brakes you start at the right rear wheel, then left rear, then right front and finally left front wheel.
On each caliper there are 2 bleed screws....an inner and outer.
At each caliper start bleeding the outer bleeder and then do the inner bleeder after.
With your favourite lady pushing on the brake pedal/ turn the ignition on/ and when the abs stops, bleed first the outer and then the inner caliper bleeder.....and then goto the next caliper and so on.....very straightforward.
This will likely take around 15 minutes (not counting the time to re&re the tires).

The clutch.....that is another matter altogether.
You will find you have no pedal pressure at all and there is no way to 'pump up the pressure'.
Rather than buying an expensive pressure bleeder.....goto your local auto store and buy an aquarium pump or syphon.
They cost around $2.00.

Make the mod I made and simply pump the fluid back into the clutch bleeder.
(open bleeder and pump 2-3 shots of fluid and close bleeder)
The first time you will have a 1/4 pedal.....do this 3 or 4 times and you will have a full clutch pedal ....in less than 5 minutes.

Next have your favourite lady pump the clutch pedal 4 or 5 times and hold and bleed in normal manner.
But make sure you keep the bleeding procedure to small strokes....and do this around 10-15 times......again should take no more than 10 minutes max........and your done.
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'correcting a typo'

 

Hi Chris, another very handy tip! Thanks

 

Note to F1 guys - skip this step

 

Anytime

 

On my tubi you may recall I have fabricated removeable tips which allow me to install the muffler with out removing the bumper.
Now I am re-installing the muffler (and tips).
I found that the y-pipe has a sliding clamp on the left flange with one small lockdown screw.
Over time , with the heat cycles, the manifolds move not only side to side but up and down....this can cause the the left sliding flange to move a little.
In my case the clamp had moved such that the flange gasket (donut) was a little off the pipe and in the exhaust stream.
This resulted in not only a little exhaust leak but also in the gasket developing numerous stress cracks.
No matter how I tried to position it I could not stop the exhaust leak so what I did was modify the stock flange with a larger hold down screw plus I welded a second bung with an additional lockdown screw.
The double lockdown screws hold the flange in position firmly.
I installed the left y pipe flange in the correct position ( and then tightened the right ypipe flange) and not only is the exhaust leak & noise gone (even with the cracked donut gasket....which is on order currently) but the entire exhaust system is 100 % straight from the y pipe to the tips.
When I purchased the car (it was serviced only at the dealer), because of the wrong position of this left flange, the alignement of the system was never quite right..........but it is now.
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Heres the modified flange .
Theres a tendency of the manifolds wanting to splay apart due to the heat cycles.
With the left flange now firmly installed in the correct position (first), you then tighten the right flange (second).
The system sits perfectly straight.
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Chris,

As you can see, there are a lot of us enjoying this great thread. I marked up my shifter before doing an engine out belt change but found that I had to make adjustments on refit to achieve correct gear selection. This puzzled me for a while but I later reasoned that the chassis had not returned to its original position. I had to make the rod "shorter" by a couple or three rotations on the adjuster suggesting that the chassis was further forward than before (?). Was your gear selection perfect on refit? I would also appreciate comments from others........

Thanks,
Ron

 

Thats very interesting Ron.
I wonder how the chassis could move that much unless the motor mounts had some wear and allowed the powertrain to shift?
My gear shifting is fine though.
Chris