easy way to get to the inlet is jack the car up take off the rear right tire and the insert of the wheel cover,there you can see to the right of the engine the a/c compressor on top is the two inlets you want the one on the rear side of the compressor,the one towards the front of the car is the high side,besure to put r13 in and about 3lbs,did you try doing a search?
If the A/C is literally absent of R12/Freon, can you buy one of those kits from Pep Boys and install new gas? Might it be that easy?? Thanks, Chris.
I have converted mine to 134A by using the kit from Auto Zone $50.00 Very easy convertion, just make sure old R-12 are fully evacuated, (Vacuum pump is best) then replace the old fittings to the new 134 fittings and charge it. I never felt my AC so cold, it felt just like my old R-12, Photo below is the kit I've used. It's been almost a year now and it still blowing cold Image Unavailable, Please Login
I am happy for you, Mike. It is a rare thing to get the same cold ac with R134a from an original R12 system. One tid bit I must add though is you must make sure you drain out/flush out (not easy to do, actually) any of the refrigerant oil if it was mineral oil, which was common for old R12 systems. If you dont, you will be sorry. Real sorry. Best type here is to go with Ester oil, which is compatible with BOTH , in case you ever want to go back to R12. There is no mention on that kit if they supply ester or PAG oil. Also, be prepared to be hearing your compressor running more often, as R134a needs higher pressures to operate, and thus, will not last as long.
I converted my GT4 to a Sanden compressor and tried it with R134a.Best vent temps I could get was 7degC(44 F).I evacuated the system and recharged with R-12.I got the vent temp down to 1.8degC(35 F).Oil is Ester.Also it shouldn't be necessary to jack the car up to access the sevice ports.It should be accessible through the engine bay.Before you recharge verify that there are any leaks as well.
I meant r12......also if your system is empty you should have it check,they will pump no2 in it for leaks,its cheaper to use than $100 of R12 and find out you have a seal thats leaking,that happened to me last year
One more question. I'll vacuum the old freon out, but what type of pump would you suggest using? I'll buy the kit that one member form Autozone suggested after I vacuum out the old stuff. Thanks, Chris.
do you know anyone in a/c and heating that can help you,I went to a ferrari shop and they had what I needed,
Chris, I remember Auto Zone have a vacuum pump for rent and I think it's free you just need to leave a deposit. And when you do get one vacuum the system for at least 45min. the longer the better.
Harbor Freight has an air compressor powered vacuum pump for evacuating air conditioning systems. Don't even consider this tool for servicing any air conditioning system. I've used it for many things, including brake bleeding, but it was useless for AC.
* Did you try it with a large compressor ? (like 7hp) I was thinking of buying that one for AC myself but I won't if it's junk.
I don't recall what size compressor I have, but it isn't for roofing nailers! It takes 220VAC, so I'd guess it is over 5. The HF pump does suck, (in both senses, actually) I use it to pull fluids all the time, but it wouldn't draw down anywhere near what I needed for a system evacuation. YMMV. HF tools are definately variable in quality, maybe I got a bad one and you'll get a better one. But it is just a venturi, not an actual displacement pump.
You can't vaccuum out freon.If there is freon in the system then it should be reclaimed.If you dont have any leaks,then use a proper vac pump,preferably a 2 stage pump.Dont skimp on this part as it is very crucial for there not to be any non condensibles in the system.If you have any moisture,your discharge pressure will be abnormal and it will probably find its way to the orifice of the TX valve,ice up and pump the system down.Also moisture + refrigerant turns in acid so it starts to eat the insides of your system.Hope this helps
Right. But, Im thinking the orig post assumes no ac, therefore, hardly any freon left to worry about. Do not skimp on vac procedure, like yousaid. Why wont you just drive to a shop, and for maybe $20 they will pull a good 1-2 hour vacuum the RIGHT way, then you can drive it home and do your stuff your way?? Its not worth buying cheap equip and gambling with halogenated refrigerants and risking ruining your components with, as maurice said, acid inducing condensibles. Now if you went with envirosafe, you would not have to worry about vacuuming out the system, but that is another research project for you. I am a fan of propane, BTW, and believe in some of its merits, although not using it YET.......
The reason I converted mine to 134A is because when I did my T-belt and bearing change I had to remove the compressor and since it doesn't have any R-12 in in the system not to mention hard to get, I figure this is the time to convert, that's all.
Mike, What did you do about the compressor oil? Did you drain it and put in the 3 Imp. Pints of of oil specified for the R134 or leave in the Agip ter 80? Thanks. George
Huh??? 3 imperial pints of compressor oil??? I must be reading that incorrectly (scratching 3 day old beard stubble). You must mean 3 ounces, right? Even so, 3 oz is low for a compressor...usually you put in 6 or so oz. Anyway, if you had R12, you can not simply leave in the same oil (usually classic mineral oil) with R134a. Go with ester oil.
I've had to remove my compressor when doing the cam belt pulley bearings. One of the hoses had an o-ring on the end of the metal pipe union and one didn't - are they both supposed to have o-rings ? Actually I must check that there isn't an o-ring left in the compressor union. My a/c worked for a while when I bought the car a few years ago, but since it was winter I didn't use it. 6 months later there was no pressure in the system so I figured there must be a slow leak. It was recharged last November but still no pressure by the time I tried it a week or so later. Maybe my lack of o-ring is the leak ? Lee '77 GT4
Lee they are both supposed to have o-rings.If it wasnt there,then that would probably be where your leak is.Also for the small cost of it,might as well replce the o rings up at the front on the drier and the hoses going to the condenser.It also might pay to replace the drier as well while your there.A universal one that should fit shoulndn't cost more than 15 pounds.
