A little help in finishing up my 30K on a 348 | FerrariChat

A little help in finishing up my 30K on a 348

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by 50hdmc, Apr 9, 2009.

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  1. 50hdmc

    50hdmc Formula 3

    Oct 10, 2006
    1,211
    Michigan
    Full Name:
    mark s
    Started the 348 today, after all the trials and tribulations and help from my fellow FChat members - thanks, I learned a great deal about my car. So, it started and actually ran idled quite well. Ran up to 1300 rpms, then settled into 1000 and ran smoothly.

    I have the following issues to resolve:

    The fans did not come on (ran for 15 min)..at what temp should they go on? Tried to bleed the system, but nothing came out of either bleeder.

    Now that I have test pipes should I just unplug the 02 sensors, thermocouples, or both?

    When I resintalled the shift cables for some reason everything was out of adjustment, very hard to move shift lever. Haven't bled the clutch yet, but it does still disengage - could that be all of the problem.....I wanted to start the motor after all the work and all this time - didn't have the time to bleed the clutch.

    Lastly, what is the "trick" to search on this site. I try to search these issues but get threads that don't really answer the question.....

    I intend to post my pictures and add a few ideas for novices like myself that I learned during this entire process.

    mark
     
  2. GCalo

    GCalo F1 Veteran

    Sep 15, 2004
    7,645
    Northern California
    Full Name:
    Greg Calo
    In the upper left below the "Reply to Thread" statement is the search button.

    Tap that and enter what you want.

    Be creative because the subjects don't always come up with your particular thought.

    I don't have a 348 so I can't help you with your questions.

    However there are plenty who can including the moviestar, PAP!
     
  3. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,252
    socal
    water should come out of the bleeder or it needs more water

    verify fan electrical connections. you can use a laser pyrometer and see the temp on the radiator header. I forget the temp but about 160-180F fans should be on. If not check to see you are getting voltage to the fans when the temp comes up to about 180. You can also check temp on the oil cooler and it will be similar to the radiators. IIrc the right fan will always come on when the A/C is on. It is the left fan that comes on at temperature.

    If you can shift the car with engine off the cable are fine

    If you can't shift with the engine on then most likely a clutch issue. You must bleed the clutch. 2 man method works best as well as lifting the rear of the car on jackstands to tilt the airbubble up to the throwout bearing exit point.

    put the o2 sensors back in. t-couple can stay out.
     
  4. gidge348

    gidge348 Formula Junior

    Dec 12, 2008
    343
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Ian Wood
    If your gear shift was ok prior removal and is no good now, check the clamp plate in front of the rubber boot and make sure the outer cable ends are located correctly in the grooves in the housing and the clamp.

    Agree bleeders should let coolant out, open them both and keep filling until the bottom one dribbles with no air and close then wait till the top one dribbles. This is probably the cause of the fans not coming on if the water is lower than the coolant sensor they will not register the temp.

    DO NOT RUN THE CAR until you are sure you have the coolant system full and bleed.

    When you bleed the clutch, do as FBB says, jack the rear but I also found it useful to crack the connector in the left wheel arch first and get the fluid to that point before going to the rear bleeder. This connector seems to be the highest point of the clutch system and attracts the air.
     
  5. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2005
    100,232
    Mount Isa, Australia
    Full Name:
    Pap
    Thanks Mr GCalo! ;);)

    There is plenty of good advice from the boys. Not sure if there too much more I can add. :):)
     
  6. gidge348

    gidge348 Formula Junior

    Dec 12, 2008
    343
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Ian Wood
    There is another way to search by using google.

    Open a new page go to google.... advanced settings... "Search within a site or domain" as, "www.ferrarichat.com" then fill in the phrase or words you are looking for.

    No offence to Ferrari chat search, but this tends to pick up what you are looking for without giving a list of hundreds just in date order.
     
  7. 50hdmc

    50hdmc Formula 3

    Oct 10, 2006
    1,211
    Michigan
    Full Name:
    mark s
    ............you guys are incredible, really! Always right there to help/assist another car owner. Thanks again, I will take your advice and see if I can get this completed. I look forward to posting my pics too and maybe help someone else down the road.

    mark
     
  8. FerrariEngineer

    FerrariEngineer Karting
    BANNED

    Apr 8, 2009
    85
    ww.exoticars-usa.com
    Full Name:
    Serkan Ozsavasci

    Hi

    Please control:
    1. Power @ Fan Relay Fuse Ok!
    2. Power the fan from the Relay Fan On? Fan OK : )
    3. Control the Ground From ECU ok or no ? Car Engine at 200F no Ground ?
    4. Go to the Temp Sensors Please Inform the Ohm on sensors !
    5. No Ohm Needs new sensors
    6. Ok Ohm control all wearing in the System for the fan
    7. Please Inform > bye
    _____________________________________________________________________________
    Courtesy of Exoticars-USA
     
  9. FandLcars

    FandLcars F1 Rookie

    Aug 6, 2006
    3,057
    Tempe, Az
    Full Name:
    Rick Schumm
    Mark - glad to hear your car is back together! On my cooling system, I filled the system as well as I could, and started the car with the recovery tank cap off, and heater on (to make sure it was flushed out). I opened the bleed ports, and the pressure of the water pump caused some overflow from the bleed ports (not a lot though). After the car warmed up some, I shut it down, let it cool down a couple hours, and then topped up the recovery tank.

    I then put the recovery tank cap on, started the car up, let it warm up (watching the temp), and after some pressure built up, I opened the bottom bleed port until it seemed like coolant was coming out for a while, and then did the top port. Tip: I did use a long piece of vacuum hose on the ports so the coolant ran onto the floor. It did take longer than I thought for what I would call a rather steady stream to come out of the hoses. Then I shut the car down, let it cool again, and refilled the recovery tank (actually the next morning... wasn't in a hurry). I then warmed the car up all the way, again opened the ports a bit, and my temp gauge was rock solid at 190deg F.

    Has barely been over 190degF on 80F+ days here in Phoenix area, so I feel I'm set. I just watched the recovery tank level carefully after driving the car the first couple times and added a little. May not be by the book, so maybe I'm just lucky!

    RE: Shifter - mine is not shifting quite as easily either after reassembly. Everything is hooked up properly, so I may need to play with the adjustment a little. Good luck getting the car finished!
     
  10. FerrariEngineer

    FerrariEngineer Karting
    BANNED

    Apr 8, 2009
    85
    ww.exoticars-usa.com
    Full Name:
    Serkan Ozsavasci
     
  11. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,252
    socal
    When bleeding air from cooling system you need to fill reservior and cap it then run car and as it heats up coolant will be sucked from reservior into the system. Then crack open the bleeders and fluid should come out with air. When no air comes out only fluid you are done. Really easy job.
     
  12. gidge348

    gidge348 Formula Junior

    Dec 12, 2008
    343
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Ian Wood
    When warming the car for the first time, the main thing is to check the TOP water pipe from the engine.

    It should stay cold for a few minutes then when the thermostat opens it will sudenly get hot.

    I normaly do the final bleed of radiators with the cap off and as soon as the top pipe gets hot crack the bleeders again, top up the fluid, put on the cap and you are good to go. Good luck
     

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