At the very least you should consider changing that to 10W40 (5W40 or even 0W40 would be better still) - 20 50 is just too thick at startup (so you will be seeing increased cold engine wear rates) and unless you do a lot of extreme high speed running in a hot climate its arguably too thick at the top end too. If you run lighter oil and your engine starts burning it, well then it probably should be on its way to the rebuilders anyway in due course. You might expect to see a drop in oil pressure, but that's OK because the oil flow rate will be much higher.
Are there any changes in the composition of seals on the 308? And if so, when were seals introduced to withstand synths?
Man if the Italians were really smart they would figure out a way to use olive oil in the Italian cars. Wouldn't that be awesome or what? LOL.
I love a serious oil thread. Great comments. Most people do not seem to realize a 20W-50 conventional oil is a 20W oil with viscosity enhancers to make it act like a 50 weight when warm. Until those viscosity enhancers break down. Then you have a heavy weight oil at start (20W is way too thick) and a lightweight oil (unknown viscosity way less than 50 weight but hopefully more than 20 weight) when hot. A 5W-40 synthetic (I looked up the spelling Futureman) is a 40 weight oil when hot that flows like a 5 weight when cold. Big difference. Thank you, Dr Haas. Taz Terry Phillips
