Rattle on start up | FerrariChat

Rattle on start up

Discussion in '348/355' started by F328, May 14, 2009.

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  1. F328

    F328 Karting

    Jul 7, 2004
    65
    Midlands UK
    Full Name:
    Graham
    Started up my 95 GTB 5k miler after its Winter hibernation and a new noise has appeared. Coming from passenger side of engine ( Uk car) near the bulkhead . Sounds metallic like a pen in wheel spokes or a belt hitting against something metallic. As the car warmed up it got significantly quieter and was only noticeable at idle and not all the time. Next day drove the car again not as bad but exactly the same symptoms but quieter.
    Appreciate any thoughts or is it a visit to my local F man ? Other than the noise and a smelly clutch the car was fantastic ( reversing up a hill in to the garage didn't help the clutch ).

    Thanks
     
  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,091
    Austin TX
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Very good chance it is a timing belt tensioner.
     
  3. mike_747

    mike_747 Formula Junior

    Dec 15, 2008
    794
    Seattle
    sounds a bit like oil starvation like when I used to start my chain driven 365 after a short storage.
    But as these are belt driven - oil starvation shouldn't be as noticable.
     
  4. F328

    F328 Karting

    Jul 7, 2004
    65
    Midlands UK
    Full Name:
    Graham
    Something that can wait until the car is serviced in September or should I take it in?
     
  5. rivee

    rivee F1 Rookie

    Jan 20, 2002
    3,731
    Nowhere important, USA
    Full Name:
    John
    If it's a tensioner, you better have it it towed to the shop yesterday.
     
  6. SonomaRik

    SonomaRik F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 15, 2006
    6,884
    Sonoma, CA
    you should get it checked out now. I am not sure but sounds like a timebomb.

    rik
     
  7. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,091
    Austin TX
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Not a tensioner bearing, a tensioner. They are a well designed failsafe device. If the belts/tensioners were properly adjusted at time of insatllation they are designed to prevent anything from happening in the case of a failure.
     
  8. F355Bob

    F355Bob Formula 3

    Could it be the bypass valve when cold?
     
  9. F355Bob

    F355Bob Formula 3

    Alternator bearing? It is located next to the bullkhead or bypass valve.
     
  10. FandLcars

    FandLcars F1 Rookie

    Aug 6, 2006
    3,057
    Tempe, Az
    Full Name:
    Rick Schumm
    If you're unsure what it is, IMO it's best to be safe. Hopefully you have a trustworthy Ferrari mechanic who could listen to the noise and evaluate.
     
  11. jetfixr

    jetfixr Formula 3

    Jun 14, 2007
    1,016
    northeast
    Full Name:
    Gone
    #11 jetfixr, May 14, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    +1,000
    Had the same noise. Found that the bearing attachment arm would tap against automatic adjuster creating this noise.

    I have heard 3 cars do this from time to time now. Used to drive me nuts now I could care less..


    Good diagnosis Brian. Thats what experience gets you......Not likely to learn that one doing a floor jack major.....
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  12. rbellezza

    rbellezza F1 Rookie

    Jun 18, 2008
    2,792
    Henderson, NV
    Full Name:
    Roberto Bellezza
    I had a similar experience on my 348 at the beginning of last winter. It went away after I changed engine oil, perhaps it's the same for you.
     
  13. F328

    F328 Karting

    Jul 7, 2004
    65
    Midlands UK
    Full Name:
    Graham
    Thanks for all the comments everyone.

    After talking to my F tech we decided best plan is not to start her up but get her to his workshop and do an early belt change ( they were done two years ago according to the history file) and have a good look round whilst the engine is out. The clutch is smelling a little too so think it could be a big spend but need to be able to sleep at night. Part of the problem may be that the car has only done 4k miles since 1995 and although its got FSH prior to my purchase I would like someone I trust to check it all out.

    Would it be advisable to add anything else to the list with the engine out?
     
  14. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,091
    Austin TX
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Its a little difficult to diagnose noise with the engine out on the floor. If it were me I would be trying to avoid a witch hunt by diagnosing the noise while the car is still running. You may find something that does not require engine removal and save a pile of money and you will also avoid the possibility that you will spend all that money and not find the noise only to have it come back when the work is all done.



    Diagnose....then fix.
     
  15. tamf328

    tamf328 Formula Junior

    Mar 9, 2005
    477
    Had a problem with a 348 sounded like a bearing going bad. when cold at start up usually then when things warmed up it would
    pretty much go a way. One side of the engine was were the sound was coming from. left side bottom.
    turned out to be an alternator belt,,,, sounded like a bad bearing.
     
  16. ronrob

    ronrob Formula Junior

    Jan 15, 2007
    395
    Var, S.E. France
    Full Name:
    Ronald Brown
    To follow the diagnostic route suggested by Rifledriver:

    You MIGHT be able to link the rattle to the hydraulic belt tensioner (or not) by heating the area around the tensioner before starting the engine. If you look at a diagram of the timing end of the engine you will see the tube-shaped tensioners. They are concealed by the black plastic covers. Not easy access of course to heat that area, but if you are motivated you could lead a tube from a hair drier between the bulkhead and the cover in that area. If the area is preheated and there is less noise (or none) on start up it will be because the tensioner starts to work (the piston moves out of its cylinder) when it gets warm; you mentioned that the noise decreases as the engine warms up.
    Of course, if you lived in a warmer part of the world, there would be other ways to tackle this diagnosis!
    If and when the engine is removed, a "tired" tensioner is easily spotted - the piston is virtually flush with the top of the tensioner body and the belt is quite slack.
    A search of the forum will bring up the question of whether even "good" tensioners should be changed during a major. They are not cheap, but in my humble opinion, if the majors are done with relatively little time intervals it would be OK to change the tensioners every other service; otherwise, change them every time the engine is removed. Seems to me that they just get "sticky" with time. IMO, the other bit of excellent info previously in this thread is that when the idlers are set properly a sticking tensioner results in a fail safe mode.
    Good luck!
     
  17. F328

    F328 Karting

    Jul 7, 2004
    65
    Midlands UK
    Full Name:
    Graham
    Spot on - mechanic just confirmed.

    Thanks
     
  18. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

    Feb 6, 2009
    34,560
    Ontario, Canada
    Full Name:
    Mike
    I am getting a rattling sound also, 348 model, sounds like a loose muffler or some loose part but after about 3 or 4 minutes after the first start of the day the sound is gone. You can hear it go from rattle to nothing clear as day, and then any starts for the rest of that day nothing at all, only the first start of the day. I heard it could be the O2 sensors being loose but i checked both and they are tight, to me it sounds like it is coming from the left side. Any ideas?
     
  19. ronrob

    ronrob Formula Junior

    Jan 15, 2007
    395
    Var, S.E. France
    Full Name:
    Ronald Brown
    Good to learn that you have sourced the noise. Same thing with mine. I presume that the engine is out and the bad tensioner has the piston vitually flush with the top of the body? So it's two new tensioners and two Hill bearings then......
    You will surely be checking the water pump and the alternator bearing while you have a general look around. Check out a recent very illuminating thread on setting the gap at the bearing idler (should be set as in the WSM at 2.5mm)
     
  20. MaterMech

    MaterMech Formula Junior

    Feb 26, 2007
    476
    Los Gatos CA
    Full Name:
    Mark Johnson
    Disconnect the alternator belt and see if it goes away. Mine did so I put new bearings in the alt and tensioner, problem solved.
     

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