Sticky : Mondial 8/QV/3.2/t Repair thread

The Mondial 8/QV/3.2 Repair thread

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Hopefully this can be a permanent home for Mondial Repair Projects, that the owners have done.
If you remember a good write-up on a particular repair that someone has done, please post a link to it here.
Engine, clutch, suspension, tune-up tips, electrical, cosmetics, you name it, are welcome.
I will give it a first shot...

Enzo52

 

Hi,
Eversince the mondial hat a starting problem. Sometimes not at all, sometimes a click or sometimes after several attempts.
How did I solved this problem...by the help of a Starterrelais.
Before doing anything on your car....disconnect your battery. Take the + pole of.
I bought a starter-relais in a normal autoparts-house, but you can find them in any FORD garage. Dont buy chinese replica...for less money.
I hang it up on my oilcooler on the underside...there are several holes. The best thing to do is to hang it up on 2 rubber silencers like they use to hang up exhaust-tubes. This prevents the heat of the oilcooler passing over to the new relais. A rubbersilencer with on booth sides a bolt...I hope you know what I mean. See the pictures.
The wiring : Do you see the picture of the starter...there are 2 big nuts on the solenoid.
- A nut with connection directly to the starter. Dont touch this one.
- Take off the small white wire on the side of the 2 big nuts on the solenoid.
- The other bolt you unscrew and make a connection with 1 of the 2 big nuts on the new starterrelais. It dont matter wich of the 2. So there goes direct current from the battery to the new starterrelais. Now on this solenoid-nut you will have 3 connections : 1 coming from the battery, 1 that go to the alternator and the new 1 that goes to the new starterrelais.

Then the other big nut on the starter-relais : here you make a connection with the pin on the solenoid where you toke of the white wire. From there, direct power goes to your solenoid after starting.

Now you have the loose white wire : make a connection between this loose wire and the side-pin on the new starterrelais.

The base of the new starterrelais is metal...you have to make a connection from this metal to the frame(chassis) of your car.
There are several black wires that are bolted on the chassis in that area.

I put a little plastic box on the new starterrelais so its protected against rain and mud.
My car is starting perfectly since 2 months now.
I hope this will salve the most of your problem also. If you have any question please ask...

Greetings, Enzo52
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Bad connections on chassis or battery :

My mondial hat some problems with bad connections on the minus pole....all connections that runs tru the chassis.

How did I solved this problem :

I put an extra black wire on ALL the contacts that are going directly to the chassis. The wire I used whas 4 mm2.

I started at the back of the car. Making contact between all the negatives lines of all lights, trunk openers, antenna. From there 1 wire that goes in to the enginebay (tru a hole on the upperleft side of the rear trunk).

The enginebay : contact-wire with the new starterrelais, engine-management, a cluster of black wires on the left side above the oil-cooler, fuel-pump. From there 1 wire goes inside the passengerroom. (there is a hole in the corner/back of the rear seats).

Unter the footrest passengerside 2 clusters of black wires, under the dashboard 1 leftside and 1 rightside. Make contact between all those points. From there 2 wires of 4 mm2 going tru a hole next to the AC dryer in the fronttrunk directly to the minus of the battery.

In front : 1 black wire from the left lights, lightsopener, cluster of black wires next to the left lights goeing in front/above of the radiotor to the rightside. There also lights, lightopener, cluster of black wires, horn, washerwatermotor, directly to the minus of the battery.

Since, a have no more weak lights in front or back, no more electric grimlins.

Greetings, Enso52
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Hi,
For those who are looking to buy cheaper parts : www.oscaro.com
For those who dont understand french :
Following parts are available for good prices :
- brakeparts, brakediscs,brakehoses ;
- oil and fuelfilters ;
- fuelpump ;
- belts ;
- spark plugs ; etc....

exemple for Mondial QV :

FERRARI MONDIAL 8 Quattrovalvole 240 cv


Jeu de 4 plaquettes de frein arrière/ brakepads rear
GDB142

Épaisseur [mm] : 15
Hauteur [mm] : 57
Longueur [mm] : 61,7
Restriction du fabricant : ATE
jusque année de construction : 04/1986
Contact avertisseur : non préparé pour indicateur d´usure
Endroit d'assemblage : essieu arrière
22,63 € TTC


Jeu de 4 plaquettes de frein avant /front brake pads: GDB100
Épaisseur [mm] : 15
Hauteur [mm] : 70
Longueur [mm] : 76,8
Restriction du fabricant : ATE
jusque année de construction : 04/1986
Contact avertisseur : non préparé pour indicateur d´usure
Endroit d'assemblage : essieu avant
28,33 € TTC


BREMBO : Jeu de 2 disques de frein arrière / Disc brakes rear 2 pieces : 09.4254.10
Diamètre [mm] : 280
Diamètre du centrage [mm] : 67
Épaisseur du disque de frein [mm] : 22
Épaisseur minimum [mm] : 20
Hauteur [mm] : 74
Nombre de trous : 5
Matériel : Fonte grise
Version de disques de frein : ventilé
Endroit d'assemblage : essieu arrière
559,34 € TTC
Also front disc brakes, brake hoses...

Enzo52

 

Thanks to Guido we can now get to the gearbox transmission. Just take off the protection shell on the left rear wheel to get access. Then remove the transmission cover. There is NO sealent between cover and gearbox house.
To remove the ringnuts from drivin gear (lower) with special tool from BAUM....
Left turning (anti-clockwise) is removing ringnut !!!! Pull of the gears.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214922

To get to the clutch, you need to remove the upper ringnut also. Also anti-clockwise to remove !!!

Enzo52

 

After driving 350 km a noise whas coming from the gearbox transmission side. After opening this transmission house (there is no paper sealant, only glue) I found the intermediate gear (middle) with metal fatigue on 1 side.
The 2 ringnuts can be removed with special tools from BAUM, Florida.
Problem : this transmission house whas NOT original but whas changed in a model 328 (1988), so all the parts I needed are from this model 328 1988 US model. Every gear has a number on it so you can check your model gearbox on www.eurospares.co.uk. Go for Ferrari, Model of your car, mecanical and then gearbox transmission.
My expl :
Ferrari 328 (1988) - INTERMEDIATE GEAR -FOR C7 -C8 AND US
Part No. 126066
The cost from Ferrari parts UK whas £ 556 + shipping. After some mails, they give a discount of 60 % so that part whas delivered the day after for about £ 289. I hat to ship the old gear back to them...
Needed also the 2 Ferrari 328 (1988) - ROLLER BEARINGS
Part No. 105142 about £ 44 each. The 2 AXIAL ROLLER BEARINGS still in good shape.
Replaced also the upper outside bearing from the driving gear.
Ferrari 328 (1988) - BEARING
Part No. 112981. This is a SKF bearing nr NU1007ECP. Ordered it at the local carshop and whas about 95 euro. (F part UK £ 129).
On following Website the bearings are sheaper to get :

http://www.ekugellager.de/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=SKF&Wälzlager-Suche=search&sort=1a&page=68

Dreaned all the oil, also from the gearbox. Removed the pan and cleaned the inside with petroleum. BE CAREFULL NOT TO LOOSE THE 3 BALLS AND SPRINGS (on the left side of the pan)!!!!
Cleaned the gearbox transmission also.

To take of the bearings on the engineside, I used a puller after heating up the surrounding with a acyteleen burner. The bearing came of with the steel ring also. I found some alu-scrapnels behind the steel ring (picture later). My impression is that the bearing whas off line to its gear and the metal fatique whas inevetable.

To take of the bearings on the house, I put this in the kitchen oven 200 ° C for some minits. The bearings fell out easely. My wife not happy with oil smell in her oven.

The bearing (intermediate gear) on engineside whas to tight. A local engine repair shop sliced a bit of of the gear to get it perfect. When putting it back be shure the holes are on the right place...on the bearing and on the steel ring there is a mark to put it exactly so the 3 holes are in 1 line.

Put the oil pan back with the paper seal and glue. PUT THE 3 BALLS AND SPRINGS BACK (I use some grease to keep them in place when pressing the pan to the gearbox).
Assembled gears back with new ringnuts (Ferrari parts UK at £ 102 for the 2), and lubrificated all turning parts with gearbox oil.
Put house back with proper glue and filled up the tranmission housing with 100 gr oil Agip Ultra MP 80/90.

Fill up the gearbox with 4 lt AGIP Ultra MP 80/90.

Hat a little spin, and everything turns smootly.

Guido
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Hi,
I just prepaired a fusebox that I could buy recently. It whas a fusebox for a Ferrari 412 and I wanted to transform it for a Mondial QV.
I just needed the main board so I toke off all the elements like layers, male and female connections. There whas only 1 point burned and lukely it whas a male contact for the radiator fan in the tropics, wich I dont need.
The other problem whas the bigger special relay for the wipper speed that has 6 contacts, while the 412 uses 2 normal bosch relays on that place.
I solved this problem by drilling 6 little holes in the main board just like the mondial has.
The cover for my mondial fits normaly on this main board to...that holds the big wipper relay in place.

The idea whas to replace the layers by normal wiring...I use 2.5 mm2 vob wiring, which is normal use in house electricity.
To make it more easy I use 3 diferent colors...
Red for incoming power ;
Blue between the relays and outgoing power ;
Black for the negatif wiring.


Taking the fusebox apart is simple. First take of the protection plate in the back (5 screws), take of all screws inside with those little white rings. In front you take of the fuses, and with a screwdriver pull of the 2 plastic protection that covers the fuse-contacts. This is a little sticky. An other way maybe is to unsolder all those contacts first and take the complet cover with contact off.

Take of the front plate and the main board with layers is free for working on it.
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Next step is to unsolder all contacts and taking of the layers one by one. My way what I think is the best, is to unsolder only the contacts that are fisable on each layer.

The mainboard is free and the burned damage is'nt that much. Only 1 contactpoint has some damage...

The greatest problems that coses heat in the fuseboxes are the small pins on the female contacts. Those pins are even smaller than most of the fuse -wires. If to much power needed, in 1 circuit, those pins are the first things to heat up and melts the plastic layers.

The first thing do to is drilling 6 holes to hold the big wipper relay. I use my original mondial mainboard COVER to see where exactly those pins are located. With a hot needle a put those marks and drill the six holes with a 1.0 mm dril.

Now the main board is ready to put the wiring on. With my wiring diagram in front of my I start with the 2 mean wires coming from the battery. Those wires are going directly to the fuelpump circuit and other circuits that needs power without turning the contact key. The 2 mean wires I connect together, to spread power all over the circuits.

The copper wiring that goes to fuse contact and male contacts just cut of the isolation for 3 mm and turn the end to fit exactly those contacts.
The copper wiring that goes to the female contacts with those small pins, I turned around the copper in an small eye that fits exactly a pin. The turning points (metal) of the female contacts I closed a bit to give them more grip on the realy.
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I clean every contact carefully and also the copper wiring ends. Put some solder solution on it and press it on to the mean board exactly like the mondial original. I check every wire double...on the wiring diagram and on the original mondial mean board with a tester.
Some wires on the wiring diagram ar'nt exactly like on the mondial...some are twisted around, to the fuse contacts.

There where also some relays that I hat to drill a little hole in the middle....relay 101 instead of 113...

In the end, all wires are done and all contacts are soldered. I check that all contacts are in the right angle to the mean board, just to avoid problems to put the relays back. You can also put the front cover with relays on before soldering, but that gives problems when you want to put the male and fuse contacts in place.

Put the front cover on and put all relays to see if they fit in place. Also the big wipper relay...

The 2 fuse protection plastics can be replaced by pressing them on the fuse contacts.

Even the protection cover on the back can be replaced without a problem.
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Some pictures of the evolution of this wiring process.
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Some more pictures of the wiring process
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There are some solder points that are double at 1 point...some relays and also some male and fuse points.

The relay points that are double...put 1 eye above the other and solder them together.

The male and fuse points ...solder 1 wire on each side of this point.

The eye you can easely turn by a pince (see picture).

The total weight of the fusebox is 700 grams more than the original...for those purists who want to save weight, sorry. The original weights about 1.100 kg and the wiring fusebox about 1.800 kg, but I think (I hope) NO MORE BURNED CONTACTS;

Greetings, Guido

If you have some questions please PM me....
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I put the wiring fusebox in place (Mondial QV) today and like expected, all is fine. Every electric circuit is working perfectly.
I went out for a spin to see that it stays that way...and it did.

For those who are driving a Ferrari400/412 and in a need for spare layers....I have those 400/412 layers wich I'm not going to use.

They are well except for layer nr 2 that has 1 burned point (see pictures). It can be repaired with some fine copper or little wire.

Let know if you are intrested and pm me for some more information.

Greetings, Guido
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Hi,

I hat a broken door latch and some Ferrari parts supliers wanted $$$ (235 $ each latch).

Ferrari Mondial 3.0 QV (1984) - SOP TIE ROD FOR DOOR
Part No. 60921100

I toke of the latch (2 bolts) between door and A pillar. To remove the broken latch I toke of the inner door protection (only the upper and middle parts);

The spare part came from Fiat Punto (4 doors/front door) and costs about 15 euro each.

The original latch has 4 mm bolts and Punto has 6 mm bolts. I buy some stainless bolts and used the original washer (that I drilled to 6 mm). The door holes are big anough.

The moving part of the punto has a metal part in front and this is connected with a bigger revet than we can use on the mondial.
So we have to take of this moving part and replace it by the original...this can be done by securing the spring on one side and turning this moving part until it comes of.

To put this original moving part into the Punto latch...secure one side of the spring and the other side you open the 2 rollers with a big screwdriver, and press the moving part in place. Be carefull to put the moving part the same way it came of from its original.

Put the new latch back in place with the 6 mm bolts, inox springwashers and the original washer. The other side of this moving part is connected with a pin to the A pillar ;
Put some grease to the moving parts before putting them on.

Greetings, Guido
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Hi,

My mirror switch did not work like it should so I toke it of to see what coses problems. The electric contacts that goes in to the external connector showed marks of a crack and 1 electric contact whas missing.

I broke the compleet board of contacts to put it back together and soldering it with some fine copper wiring. The missing contact I replaced with a copper flexible wire.

The switch comes easely apart. Put the back upwards and with a knife you can take of the black cover (there are 4 clips on booth sides). Be carefull to lift this cover quietly because there are some double balls and a plastic pin with springs underneed.

Once the cover is of, you can lift the electric board. Keep the switch back upwards. There whas a lot of grease inside, dont know if this should be, so I cleaned everything and put just grease on the turning points (pin in het middle). I dont think the electric contacts need any grease, because you dont going to use the switch often.

I cleaned and polished the copper elements on the board and also the double balls. Further I soldered a wire to the missing contact and leed the wire to the back of the switch after drilling a little hole in the cover.

The cracked board a glued together and the solder point I shaped to fit in the switch. I needed to melt a bit of plastic on the connector side so the board fitted well on place.

When you put the cover on place, (switch always with the back upwards) notise that the little pin in the middle has to come with its round point upwards.

The loose wire I connected behind the switch to its wire on the connecter. My switch is working fine again....

Greetings; Guido
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These switches are the same as those used on the 1980's E28 5 series bmw, find them on EBAY and BMW has loads of them.

 

In the US the new BMW switch is only $48 and readily available at dealers; they were used on early 320i's. I posted the part number 2 years ago and a search should still turn it up or let me know if you need it.
Ken

 

But this threads name is : Mondial REPAIR thread !!

So why buy when you can repair things.

Greetings, Guido

 

Before doing anything.....DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

There are 2 diferent starters for mondial. FIAT and BOSCH.
This thread is for the Fiat starter but can be used for the Bosch starter also.

Fiat starter nr is 4162784. His solenoid is Magneti Marelli nr 63600403 and 85540281. Aplication on Fiat Uno 45-55-60-70 series.

Jack up the back of the car on booth sides. Take of the wheels and inner wheel arches.

1- Right side action (looking from behind de car) :
Remove the protection cover above the exhaust (4 small bolts).
Remove the AC/waterpump and alternator protection cover. See picture (there are 2/3 (depending model) small nuts and 2 big bolts against the AC pump to remove this cover. Remove also the lower bracket after taking a picture of his position.
Remove the big bolt that holding the alternator against the engine. Remove the bolt thats holding the bracket in place and loosing his bolt against the engine. Now the alternator belt can be removed by holding the alternator upwards. The alternator can be pulled out of his position. In his back : remove the protection cover (3 little bolts) and take of his electric connection (1 little nut). Remove the altenator completly.
From this side also :
Remove the oildipsticktube : take out the oil-dipstick after removing his connection. Remove the little nut on top of the tube and disconnect the eye-washer with wire from the AC pump. Loosing the nut from union, underside of the tube and pull out the tube. BEWARE : oil is coming out of this hole so put something underneed.

Now you have acces to the back of the starter. You will see 2 big nuts. Remove the lowerbolt (from the big black wire coming from the battery) and take of the diffirent wires. Be shure the battery is disconnected. Remove also the white pushup connector.
Do not touch the upper nut for the moment. To remove the starter more easely, put something under it to hold it upwards.
In some cases there is a support bracket thats holding the alternator in the back. Remove bolts and bracket.

2- Left side action.
Loosen the 3 bolts thats holding the starter in place. Normaly the starter is sticking in place. With a wood/rubber hammer beat at the loosen bolts so the starter is coming loose backwards. When you are shure the starter is free, remove the 3 bolts.
The starter can be removed trough the the alternator side.
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With the starter apart, we have acces to the solenoid.
Remove the remaining big nut on the solenoid. The wire between the solenoid and starter is loose now.
Put some penatrating oil before removing the 3 small bolts that are holding the solenoid to the starter. Once removed the solenoid comes of. His cilinder will stick in place. The spring inside can get out also.
Click the cilinder out of his place by pulling it upwards inside the starter. (See pictures).

Replace the solenoid with a new one. Repairing the old one is only temperary. Problems will re-appear.
Put little oil on the new cilinder and spring. Click the cilinder in place into the starter. Put the spring in place in the solenoid and re-assemble the solenoid with 3 small bolts.
Put back the wire and big nut. Beware : the bolt with the soldering aside goes to the starter.

The starter : the bushes can be replaced also. The cover in the back of the starter can be removed by loosen the little bolt. Take of this cover. The 2 long bolts thats holding the starter together can be removed. When, the bushes will slide of the rotor and the back plate come off. Replace the 4 bushes. Can be ordered : superformance in the UK. Clean the rotor with very fine sandpaper.
But the bushes in place but the springs you click outside of his little tunnel. Put the back plate in place and slide the bushes over the rotor. Put the 2 long bolts back in place and re-assemble the starter-unit. Through the side opening you can place the springs on top of the bushes with nail or screwdriver. Put back the protectionplate and little bolt.

The starter in place : trough the alternator side, push the alternator in place in to the clutch housing. Look that the hole from the middle bolt is on the other side of the engine. Put something under the starter to hold it in place. With a fine screwdriver you can positioning the holes on the clutchside. Try to enter the upper bolt. Once the upper bolt is taking in, try to enter the other bolts. BEWARE : put back the bracket under 1 bolt thats holding some electric wires.
Fasten the bolts with the apropriate tension. (In case : put back the support bracket on the back side of the starter to the engine).

Through the alternator opening : put back the push connection and the wires on the alternator with the other big nut.

Re-assemble the oildipsticktube : I put some teflon on the union before pushing the tube in to his hole and putting the nut. Put back the upperbolt and eye-washer with AC-pump wire. Fasten the lower nut completly. Put the dipstick and connect the connector in place.

The alternator : connect the connector in the back and dont over tension the little nut. Put the protection cover in place. Replace the lower bolt and before fastening, replace the belt and then the upper bolt and bracket. Fasten all bolts and give the belt the apropriate tension.
AC/waterpump and alternator protection cover : put back the 2 big bolts to the AC pump, the bracket and the 2/3 little nuts to hold the cover in place. Put back the exhaust protection cover (4 small bolts).

Put back all wheel arches and wheels, unjack the car.
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When twisting "parking" light from steering column switch, you should see green "light on" signal.
When you use parking lights on from instrument panel you should see green "P" light on.

If you twist parking lights on and get signal "P" on, you got following problem:
Got to the fuse box and see if you got blown fuse. Do not use any miracle oil or use bigger fuse, deal with problem and keep happy motoring.
Note that you got only half rear lights on and no registration plate light at all.

I opened my registration plate lights and found this:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/unknow82/Parts/rekistrikilvenvalo.jpg

My car got only 30K km's on my car and it is like new, except those damn "Fiat" lights that seems to be desing to rust as soon as posible...

Clean rusted connectors and use normal 15A fuse.

 

These switches are no longer available from the factory. Used switches tend to run several hundred dollars and still break. The OEM phenolic sliders tend to crack and break. Our new sliders are durable aircraft grade 6061 aluminum and are cut using a water-jet. The switch housing is drilled and tapped so the switch can be reassembled with all stainless steel hardware.

Check a demonstration on this repair at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-duZwoRtvOk

Call P4 by Norwood and ask for Tim for more info on this A/C switch repair at #214-317-2762
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Below is a statement from the 348 forum.

The 348 uses a Porsche 911 turbo (930) CV boot. The 348's CV joint is 108 mm diameter x 40mm wide and the Porsche part # 90133229312 boot should fit it and cost about $6 per boot (no grease or clamps). Ferrari uses industry standard, third party LOBRO CV joints, supplier to VW, Audi, and Porsche among others ( http://www.drivewire.com/index.html ).

Looking at the Mondial CV joint and the boot, it looks quite standard LOBRO. Does this Porsche Turbo boot fit any Mondial? Any experience?

Randall

 

My Mondial 3.2 uses the same as the 328, by analogy I'd say yes.

 

Porsche part number for the CV boots : 92833292402

Guido