308 Clutch Replacement

Doug when you get ready to do it call and I will send the socket and an alignment tool. Also get with me on the parts. Like they said, it is best if a 1/2 inch air gun is handy.

 

AND the fact is that the parts to do a 308 clutch are not that expensive anyway. The clutch is like $500 with the T/O bearing last time I checked. The damned clutch in my last Honda was more than that!!

Birdman

 

Doug-


Here is what it will look like after removeing the transfer case cover and lower ring nut (the upper ring nut stays in place, as your brother said):
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Having replaced the clutches on many different cars, I'd rate the 3x8/Mondial clutch replacement as the 2nd easiest I've ever done. (Easiest is a 355 clutch!) Neither job requires a lift, and doing the clutch with just jack stands isn't a bad job.

The rear main seal is right in front of you once you have the flywheel off, it pops right out. No need to mess with the sump. Best to have a large round plate to press the new one in with, but with care it can be worked in by hand. It's a large diameter seal that's less than 1/2" wide, so it's easy to bend it while inserting it by hand(been there).

However, if the current seal isn't leaking, as long as you don't get debris into it while doing the clutch job, it's unlikely to suddenly fail. My main seal seemed fairly soft and wasn't showing any signs of leaking so I didn't change it when I did my clutch last year. However, it's also an easy replacement/cheap insurance 'while you're in there'.

Be sure to replace the pilot bearing as well. May need to borrow a puller from Brian as well.

 

It's actually a lot bigger than 7 inches, it's 9 1/2, The same as all the old V12's. They are no more or less balanced than any other out of the box clutch and I have never had a vibration problem with one. The only clutch I have ever had vibrate was a couple of the dual disc clutches for TR's but those are junk.


I just put them in without worrying about it.

 

When I did my clutch, I had my flywheel resurfaced & balanced as it had too much runout.

Even tho F* says the PP is pre-balanced, Also had the PP + flywheel combination balanced. Took a surprising amount to bring the PP into balance, remember it as being 20 something grams!

"I still have some free play at the top."

The QV clutch linkage is a 'constant contact' setup. ie: As soon as the pedal starts moving, pressure is being applied to begin releasing the PP. The only free play should be due to the inherent give to the cable + the amount the PP diaphram moves before releasing the disc.

I'd go thru the clutch adj procedure first before deciding that there's enough wear to tear things apart.

Once you know it's adjusted, the common slip test is to be driving about 50 mph in 5th gear & floor it. If it slips, then it's definitely new clutch time...

 

That's the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump.

 

Next week I may be buying a 51K mile 1984 Mondial with its clutch on its way out. The link above gave me confidence in doing the work myself. I couldn't find other links. Any more to follow?

What is the estimated time for completion of this job? Is this a weekend job or a couple of weeks? I'll be working on this part time. Assuming a 2 banana mechanic like me. ;-)

Thanks in advance.

 

Is there an adjustment for the clutch? I am ready to buy all new parts to swap it out but if I can get some more life out to the one that is on there I would. I have been told that there is no adjustment.

My list of parts, so far is ...

Clutch / psi plate
fly wheel ( I was told it is best to replace than have it machined)
3 "o" ring seals
ring nut
ring nut special tool
throw bearing
gear oil (what kind?)
Rear main seal

Other stuff I need
Steering wheel (someone helped me remove the Momo that was on there, um.... stolen)
window wiper lever (the one is broken off, someone put a screw driver in there)
fuse box upgrad from ceramic to glass


Please let me know if I have missed anything.

Thanks
Eric

 

Whoever told you there is no clutch adjustment probably also told you to replace the flywheel. There is no more or less reason to replace your flywheel than on your average Chevy. Besides the only flywheels still available are reproductions and they are not very good.

Put a pilot bearing in it.

 

Where can i find the clutch adjustment steps? pictures? etc. If i do need a clutch where is the best place to order from? also where is the best place to get the original steering wheel. Oh yea my car didnt come with a spare, jack, or lug wrench.

Thanks in advance

Eric

 

The shop manual has some good information and diagrams for that.

 

Is there source you can recommend? Does it come on cd/dvd or paper?

 

After seeing many and sadly buying a couple of reproductions of factory manuals on CD and reprints it is factory manuals only for me. I have yet to see one that had not excluded important information despite their claims to the contrary.

Ebay is often a good place. Be very careful of what you are buying. Vendors there will picture a factory manual and word the ad to imply that is what your are getting when it usually is not.

Adjusting things their way to establish correct gemoetry of the linkage is important for the correct operation and life of the clutch.

 

If you do a search for manuals you will find where to download them alternately they come up from time to time on Ebay.
Depending on where you are located,If in the US then Fchat sponsor Ricambi has the clutch as well as TRutlands as well
If you are located in the UK then try Superformance or Eurospares