81GTSi COLD IDLE SPEED

My 82 gtsi does the same.Cold start is about 2800 and idle is about 1000 to 900.Are you looking to disconnect the cold idle?You can disconnect it at the expansoin tank,make a male to male jumper about an inch long jump the female ends thats all you do.No more high idle.

 

That was done to pass US emissions during warm up. It can easily be deactivated.

 

See page 35 in your 216/81 OM -- it shows 2800 +/- 300 RPM (which is insanely high -- has to do with getting the cats hot quickly to reduce cold emissions)

The modification that Harry suggested will always leave the cold start air valve fully closed. Another option is to place an orifice (like a 1/2" long piece of a wooden dowel with a small hole drilled in the center) in one of the air lines of the cold start air valve -- start with a very small hole and just keep enlarging until you get a more reasonable cold start RPM (~1500?).

 

I disconnected mine, right at the expansion tank. I like it a lot better idling at around 900/1000. DO IT!!! heeheehee

 

(Responding to a PM)

Mark (mwr4440) -- Here is a picture showing where the orifice would be located to reduce the cold idle RPM, but your geographic location makes me wonder why you would need this information. The cold start air valve is only used on the US version 1980-1983 V8 -- is your 308i-2V a US version? If it is not a US version, just how high is your cold idle RPM?
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My 81 wants to rev high on cold start but won't until I press the gas pedal. After I rev it up to 3K, it will hang around there until warm. Any suggestions? Something stuck? Or should I just bypass it and be done.

Thanks,

Jim

 

Jim, my 82 is exactly as you describe.Either it's normal or we both have the same problem.
Bill

 

Steve,

Thanx. All is clear-er. Put in the block with the hole and reconnect. CORRECT?


I am a US Citizen living/working in Europe at the behest of the US Govt.

Mine car is not US but a 1981 GTSi 2V North American (Vancouver, Canada). As understand there were a few VERY SLIGHT differences between them.


The Cold Idle is around 2800 snow or shine.

 

Yes (and then test, if cold RPM too low, enlarge hole, reinstall, retest, etc., until you get the desired cold idle RPM).

 

Remember - this is a supplement to the standard CIS cold-start mechanism, fitted solely to US spec cars with the goal of heating up the cat converters quicker when the engine is stone cold.

Even at the time, it was certainly a crude and heavy-handed approach, which holds no charm today.

In fact, I'll put forth the hypothesis that this device alone contributed significantly to the 2Vi engine's reputation as an oil burner, or at the very least, contributed significantly to it. Ramping up a stone cold engine to a 2500 ~ 3000 rpm idle speed is not a good idea for engine longevity, any way you look at it.

In my case, I studied the US vs. Euro parts manuals and ordered the Euro-spec piece (bottom item in picture below) and replaced the whole USA deal (top parts in the picture).

Since doing this many years ago, my 308i starts right up and idles at a proper 800 ~ 1000 rpm, irrespective of the engine temperature, all year round.

In this case. less parts are more!

Cheers - DM
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No strong argument with you Dave that removing (or disabling) the cold start air valve works OKish operationally (although to have a true "euro" system, you would have to also change the ignition ecus and warm-up regulator), but a 800~1000 RPM cold idle on a cat-equipped car seems a little lowish to me, and just don't see a strong penalty of going to 1200~1500 RPM (although I agree with you that the stock very high cold RPM probably did cause most of the US 308-2Vi engine trouble). If no cats, then I'd have less concern.

 

Steve,

This piece of 1/2 "long of a wooden dowel with a small hole drilled in the center is it only located in the upper pipe or is it also a second wooden dowel pierced, in the small pipe located below the cold start air valve or a single wooden dowel is sufficient on the top pipe ??? (see the crosses on your motor picture).
Thanks for your help
Frederic
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Just one orifice is needed -- it can be placed inside either hose.

 

I replaced mine with an aluminum bar years ago(83 QV). No hole drilled in it. I can't imagine using wood in an engine! I frequently go for drives in sub-freezing temperatures in winter time with not the slightest issue at startup.