Mark - this was the exact issue you had!!! Did you have the same ugly sounds that Dan described? Dan - I've been crossing my fingers for you over the last week or so. Really happy for you mate - sounded pretty scary. Awesome work and I'm sure you are going to have a great outcome. Well that's 2 documented cases of these bearing failures now! Everyone got this on your 348 maintenance radar?
First, here are some pics of the engine out using the two-jack method... as mentioned earlier, it worked reasonably well and I didn't take the rear bonnet or the rear bumper off. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hey Rick, Are you serious?? 93 ft-lbs!! I was ready to take all the blame for this failure as I thought I had over torqued the drive gear when I re-installed... I was expecting a value between 30 and 40 but not 93. My question is then, how does the oil get up there to lube both bearings and the chain? DF
Yes Troy....that is the same problem I had. I did not have the same noise I think because my chain was not damaged, at least not in the "mangled" condition described here.....I was doing my 30k simply because it had not been done (16k on the clock) when I purchased the car.
Here are the pics of the failed bearing... as mentioned, the bearing behind the sprocket seems to have failed as well but haven't removed it yet. Also my chain tensioner, which broke apart in my hands... now I see why I thought everything was tight... the chain was being held snug into tensioner... As a side note, it appears that it would be possible to change the chain tensioner without performing an engine out BUT the first crank bearing cap would have to be removed to allow you to slide the tensioner off... I'm not an engine builder so I cannot comment on whether it's acceptable to remove and replace a bearing cap but this is the only way to do it as a stop-gap until you do it properly during an engine out... I am merely pointing this out since someone else had suggested it could be done in a thread I found. DF Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yup - the workshop manual has torques listed on page B88. One of the ones listed is "Lock nut fixing for timing drive gear" which shows 118 Newton-Meters. This actually converts to 87ft-lbs. Not sure how I got 93 in my earlier post, but it's way up there! I replaced both the case bearing and back bearing in the block, which had been upgraded from an original roller bearing, IIRC. I had the new-style bearing, but it looked like it may have been running hot, and it's easy to replace as a precaution while you're in there. From what I could see, the case bearing is lubed by splash inside the case, but the block bearing has a tiny hole in the block behind the bearing. I assumed this was for a small stream or spray of oil for the bearing. I ran a small wire in the hole to make sure it wasn't plugged before installing the new bearing. HTH.
Hi All, After going through the second major service in less than a year, I am happy to have my 348 back on the road. I had a weird issue getting the #11 bearing as Ricambi sent what they thought were the two possibilities but they were way too small and a third bearing had to be sourced, which was much larger than the other 2, yet had the same part number as one of them. It also answered the question of how this bearing gets its lubrication... the simple answer is that it's sealed on both sides so it's lubed by its own grease. I also degree'd the cams as per FBB's great thread on the matter but this time, I noticed that I had previously used the values for non-cat engines... and since I have added some cats, I took the values for catted engines... the result is that it runs much smoother at idle and about the same at WOT. Going to do my e-test this afternoon and hopefully it'll pass this time. DF
Yep... off the top of my head I think the intake valves open at -14 degrees for a non-cat engine and -12 degrees for a catted engine. Check out page B67 (I think) of the 348 manual to be sure. DF
