Thanks. I have been making a list of things I need/should change at the same time, for my motor R&R and where to get them without paying Fcar prices. This is going on the list, which is getting quite long. I am starting to suspect i will have mostly a brand new car when I am done.... Doug
Years back, my shop did a very large amout of Porche business...so I had a surplus of the CV boot clamps made by Norma. This were the type that you'd "crimp" the protruding nib to tighten the clamp. As my supply is very low, I'm tempted to go back to Wurth where, as I recall, was my original supplier. I've used the band-type clamps, as well. David
246, 308 all variants including Modials, 328, BB, BBi all use the same CV joint and boot... Part numbers have been posted David
Very true, but why would you even consider buying a "rebuilt CV joint" particularly for an F-car, when new OE ones are nominally around $75 each...from non-Ferrari vendors?
Yep I had a nut spin as well. I put a open end wrench on it and used the tool I described on the hex drive side of the bolt. Additionally, if you have not put the CV joint back together, I recommend you let it come apart(inner piece, balls and outer piece) to really clean it well. It takes a few mins to understand how to get it back together - there is a right way and wrong way - but it's easy and you will have a fresh piece to fill with gease.
What is also nice about an impact wrench is that there is no lateral shear stress created when it is used. When you use a socket and breaker bar, you have an imbalanced force and that creates additional shear stress in the bolt. If you use the impact wrench, you only create shear stress due to the torque of loosening. It's the same as using a 'T' handle. With a 'T' handle driver, the imbalanced forces cancel and you get pure torque and no lateral shear. Stress failures occur in the plane of greatest stress and that is the combination of acting stresses. So if you don't create one of the stresses, you have less chance of shearing something off. An this says nothing about the benefits of the sudden application of torque provided by the impact gun.
I just did my CV joints as well (right ,hot, side only) The instructions with the grease said to NOT use gasoline or other petrol solvent because the grease supplied with the joint (from Pelican) did not like the film it left behind. The sheet specified soap and water for the final wash! Go fig! Dave
Exactly right David. I would never consider doing that (hence my posting). But, you'd be surprised what silly things people do trying to save money on parts costs, particularly f-car owners, many of whom are feeling very stretched on parts costs anyways.
David: I checked with the distributor (DRIVELINES NW) and it turns out the clamps are Bandit brand; same as Birdman's in his howto. I'm going to try to attach a picture to show those interested in the fastening system I mentioned earlier. Rgds, Rob Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rob, I'm familiar with those style of clamps...very common on some Japanese applications. Personally, I prefer the crimp type. Thanks for the info. David
Just remember to make sure you have the crimp between the holes for the bolts not in fron of one - ask me how I know. Buddy brought home the tool from his job works great and fast.
This is great advice...and as many times as I've replace boots and clamps, I always seem to forget this (so obvious, after the fact) fact. Thanks for bringing this up. Best, David
Definitly a "DUH" moment. Realized after I had 3 bolts in. Removed halfshaft and with a screwdriver tapped on the side of the crimp and she moved.
horror of horrors.. i had a gaitor slip off the diff end flange and i could not get any bands that would tighten and stay in place. as driving season was fast approaching, and not wanting to sweat a lengthy rebuild, i did something anathema to all here. i had some large 9mm-wide norma hose clamps left over from my winter coolant hose pm that i never used. yes, i actually installed the hose clamp on the gaitor after cleaning all the "flung" grease away and pushing the gaitor as far as i could get it onto the diff flange groove. after much paranoid fear and sacriligeous thoughts from this forum, i decided to begin the spring driving season. about 2000miles later i have not noticed any deleterious effects to the gaitor or diff output flange. i always check the hose clamp whenever i check the oil level. call me a heretic, but desperate times call for desperate measures. p.s. i installed the hose clamp so that the worm drive was rotating with the direction of the half-shaft.
What kind of contamination? Grit from a split boot? I think I'd just bite the bullet and buy a new joint. Transaxle fluid? I had this. It must be from inadequate or failing sealant on the hub splines. I cleaned my splines the best I could with alocohol, etc., and resealed them. And where did your seal material come from?? RTV squished out into the grease maybe? Viton seals are superior to rubber seals here. Apparently Ferrari or at least the parts suppliers now supply Viton seals for this. But I'll bet that your car was supplied new with black rubber seals. The black rubber was good enough for the bean counters at Ferrari when your car was new, is it still good enough? Technology moves on, things are made better, discoveries made, lessons learned. The only reason to use the cheap seals is to save money. I used the black rubber, I have driven hundreds of miles since without issue. I think the black seals are inferior, but I think that they are good enough. I hope I am right for a least a few years! My car doesn't have blazing hot catalytic converters right there either. And they are directional - the lip points in, just like the cam seals. Don't put them in facing the other way. They are not directional for shaft rotation unless someone can find different part numbers for the left and right seal.
Thanks Brian. I've replaced the joints; one was toast and the others severly worn. Now I think I'll take your advice and clean the splines and reseal them. Is Permatex Ultra Black good for this? Thanks
Bill, well, that should be fine. A bit unconventional but a hose clamp will do it too, just like the fancy bands....
Paranoia? Sacrilege? Here? Just make sure you have the hose clamp balanced at a compentent machine shop so there isn't any harmful vibration...
I had a boot split last weekend and have pulled the offending halfshaft for replacement. I ordered the replacement boots from Pelican Parts per the 911 Turbo part no. listed above (901-332-293-12-M60). When I compare the new boots to the old, I see that the boot sleeves are a fair bit smaller than what I removed and will likely be a bear to stretch over the large CV joint flange. Is the smaller size normal or did I happen to get a bum set of boots?
Nevermind.....the boots do stretch over the flanges. And I found that it is fairly easy if you assemble the pieces in the proper order....which is to say I put the boots on before pushing the halfshaft into place. Brock
Apologies for resurrecting this old thread. I'm stripping the rear suspension on my '74 308 GT4 to replace all of the bushes and generally tidy it all up a bit. I need to split the CV joint to remove the uprights, which is proving to be a real b1tch and as they appear to be the original joints, I was going to replace them and I was interested to read that they're the same as a 930 Porsche Turbo. There are plenty of these available, but are there any brands or suppliers anyone can recommend (or avoid). Also, "while I'm in there" should I also replace the inner joints? Can anyone advise on the original finish of the uprights/hub carriers? Thanks, Paul
