Here is 308 clutch adjustment page scan

Can someone who's done this adjustment put the procedure in language the average guy can understand?

 

Hoe do you know when your clutch need adjustment?

 

Mine needs adjusted because the clutch is not aligned with the brake. Its too high. I don't want to "wing it" with the adjustment and those directions in the book are not too user friendly if you ask me. Thats why I would like someone to explain the procedure in clearer language.

 

Hello from Germany,

your profile says ' '80 GTBi'. So I assume, that you have the later style clutch design like mine on my late carb GTB. That design modification caused significantly less pedal force.
Therefore this procedure doesn't apply to your car.
This is the later design scheme.

Best Regards

Martin
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The big change was that they went from a "non-contact" design (that needed a physical clearance between the throw-out bearing face and pressure plate when the clutch pedal was "up") to an "always-in-contact" design. Even though it is called (and is) a "helper spring", it also "drives" the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate (via the over-center action) to ensure that the clearance exists when the clutch pedal is "up".

Here's a copy of the SB21-2:
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Steve

If I'm reading this SB correctly, does it mean one can retrofit the later-car "less pedal pressure required" clutch to the early "need a Hercules left leg" clutch?

 

Yes (if you can get the pieces).

 

I'm not Steve, but yes. If all the listed, required parts - except, like said, the clutch housing - are available.

Best Regards from Germany

Martin

 

Last page of bulletin shows great view of adjustment for new system. Does anyone have same type drawing and instructions for earlier 78-79 system?

 

The figure & text in post #1 (page D7 in the 308GT4 WSM) and page D6 are for the earlier system -- here it is with a little more explanation and a good photo that another FChatter posted before:
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1. Disconnect turnbuckle 4 from arm 1 by removing the clevis pin

2. Adjust the length of turnbuckle 2 to line up the holes in the photo (when the locknuts on the ends are loosened, and sleeve 2 is rotated, the length will change because one end is a LH thread and the other end is a RH thread)

3. Then, with the clevis pin still removed that holds turnbuckle 4 onto arm 1, adjust the length of turnbuckle 4 so that the hole in the clevis is ~3mm (1/2 of the 6mm hole size) forward of the hole in arm 1 when lightly pushing turnbuckle 4 forward in the direction of actuation (i.e., when the throwout bearing is contacting the pressure plate).

4. When you then reinstall the clevis pin to connect the clevis on turnbuckle 4 to arm 1, this moves the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate to the specified 2mm distance (on page D6).

The locknuts on both turnbuckle 2 and turnbuckle 4 are of the RH and LH variety so make sure that you turn them the correct directions to loosen/tighten.

 

Sorry for the old post drag out....

Hey Steve (or any others that wish to reply)...on this service bulletin you posted....did you take note of the fork affixing bolts position before making your measurements? Note that the bolts are centered on the shaft off the vertical line in the diagram...leaving the clutch fork off its base and not fully retracted. I assume this is correct as the later clutch setup throw out bearing is constant contact. If you don't set the fork position right...you end up measuring incorrectly for the 40-45mm on the eyelet for the clutch cable.

Essentially what I am asking here...should the fork be fully retracted for the measurements...or bolt centered as in the diagram with the fork arms off the seat? Makes a difference when you go to measure the 40-45mm. Want to make sure I do this once!

Best Regards,
John M

 

Don't follow your question John.

Post #12, talking about misaligning the holes by 3 mm, is for the early design (where the throwout bearing in not in contact with the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is "up") -- there is no "40-45mm" spec involved with this early design.

The figure in post #5, with the 40-45mm dimension, is for the later design (where the throwout bearing is always in contact with the pressure plate) -- there is no need to remove any of the clevis pins when adjusting this late design.

Which design are you dealing with? early or late?

 

Hi Steve:

Dealing with the later style and the SB21-2 you posted. This is the constant contact type. Looking at the last diagram on the last page.

When you look at the diagram, it shows the fork on the shaft that runs down to the lever. The control rod (labeled #6) connects to this lever/shaft assembly that moves the fork. My question is do you align the fork as pictured? Those two bolts are depicted in the diagram as centered along the shaft, facing 90 degrees up. This leaves the fork not fully retracted against the bell housing to make these measurements. Is this correct? If you fully retract the fork against the bell housing leaving the studs off center, this totally changes the measurement when you go to get the 40-45mm alignment for the clutch cable. You end up having to lengthen the control rod well beyond 105mm to get the alignment for the clutch cable eyelet.

So fork as pictured in the diagram with the bolts on center....or forks fully retracted? I did the measurement on center for the fork bolts. Pic attached. And thanks for the help!

Best Regards,
John M
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Neither (although "bolts on center" might be fairly close, and it defintely isn't having the forks fully retracted into contact with the bell housing). The 40-45mm applies when the fork ends are in (gentle) contact with the throwout bearing under the slight pressure from the extension spring at the clutch pedal that puts a little tension on the clutch cable when the clutch pedal is full "up". It's not something that you can "set" precisely when the bell housing is not mounted to the engine.

 

Got it Steve. Set the rod to 105mm...assemble the bell housing on clutch....then measure the 40-45mm once all hooked up. Thanks for the Saturday night reply! Now off to get'r done.

Best Regards,
John M

 

Resurrecting this thread. I have a fairly new clutch in my 77 308. It has maybe 5 or 6k miles on it since it was installed. One thing that I don't like is that I don't have a lot of pedal travel before the clutch engages. The pedal position is proper, i.e. it is even with the brake pedal. But it seems to me that I should have a bit more travel between when the pedal is pushed all the way in to disengage the clutch and the point at which I first start to engage the clutch. (I hope that is somewhat clear.)

After reading some of the description on this thread and then some other descriptions about cable adjustment, I am not really sure what I am supposed to adjust. Can anyone point me in the right direction? And also correct me if I'm wrong and this isn't a problem. I'm worried about nicking a gear tooth or something if there is so little difference between engaged and disengaged. I'm used to the way things work right now, but I'm just not sure that it is correct.

 

Has anyone out there actually replaced an early clutch with the more "user friendly" later clutch???

 

I have the early 308 GT4 setup. My clutch is slipping badly (even in 1st gear) Last night I followed the instructions and adjusted the clutch so that the holes line up at rest. It was quite a bit off, but there was no improvement. I am wondering though about the arm that rod 1 from the original post fits over. That could be adjusted many different ways, How do I now if it is right?

 

Maybe the clutch is done.

 

Most probably.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

thanks, that is what I figured, but I thought it was worth asking. I'll plan on replacing it.

 

I have a 1978 308 GTS. Trying to adjust the clutch cable. Also trying to install the studs below the gear box and engine sump

any advice?