Sent my brake calipers to a well known and experienced re builder recommended by other f-chatters that were quite satisfied with the results. When we got to the topic of the brake balancing valve, he advised to gut it, save the parts, and not bother rebuilding as the valve is of no use effectively "since it does not do it's job very well". If it matters, this is on an L series. The valve would go back on either way at reassembly. He strikes me, as obviously it is less $ for him and more for me, as it is not an inexpensive endeavor. Having a considerable amount of weight in the rear, and here I am only guessing having never done braking at the limit in a Dino, that locking the rears might not happen quite so easily. Please correct me if I am wrong on the theory. I would be very interested in opinions from others that have been there and done that. Thank you. Regards, Alberto
Alberto - while not answering your question directly, there is another, more pragmatic issue. I do not believe that anyone makes the appropriate seal to replace that found in your balancing valve. When I took mine apart, I was careful not to ruin any internals. I had investigated purchasing a "rebuild" kit, and there were none to be found on Earth. Your brake rebuilder may simply be advising a relatively innocuous solution to an absolute constraint. Jim S.
Jim, what did you end up doing with the valve? Is the bottom line, they don't go bad? My guess is that most Dino have had their brake system re-something or other, and in that case, the valve just remains untouched? My experience with Alfa Romeo, is that the valves have never gone bad and they are over 37 years old... I will open mine up and see... Thank you for the news on the unavailability of the seals, at least it's one less item to look for...: ) Regards, Alberto
Alberto - I was in the process of restoring the car. I changed all of the hard and soft lines. Hence, I had the balancing valve on the bench. I placed it in a vice, and with a rather large crescent wrench or socket (can't remember), opened the large cap-screw on the top. Do not use heat, as much as you think that you should. Sitting immediately below the cap is a rubber seal, along with a large flat washer (if I remember correctly). The cap will unscrew when sufficient torque is applied. Heat will not be necessary. Then carefully remove all of the bits and pieces, keeping good records of the order of parts as they come out. There is little documentation concerning these. I believe there is a large soft copper washer on one end. It really is easy to do. One could not believe the crud that came out of the balancing valve housing. It was really dirty inside. I cleaned all the parts with brake clean (except for the rubber seal, which was washed with brake fluid and a rag. Put it all back together and it works like a charm...maybe...who knows? Anyway, I did not want the crud floating around the brake lines, so I consider the effort worthwhile. Jim S.
It is located just on the 'leading edge line' of the rear rotors, bolted to the bottom of the frame,between the rear suspension arms. This, on an L. I don't know if later ones were in the same location, but I doubt that it could be much different. Regards, Alberto
Thanks, I was thinking of the front brake fluid distribution block under the front tub. Would the electrical connection be used to alert low pressure? Scott Image Unavailable, Please Login
Scott, I am stumped as my "L" does not have an electrical connection to the sensor that you show. All I have is a three way splitter withou the electric sensor on top. My guess is that it only lights up an idiot light somewhere on the dash if the complete/half the braking system fails. I owned a 1970 BMW 2002 that had the same arrangement and the light would come on if the system was empty/amiss. It had a "test" button that you could press before driving and if it went out all was ok..... At best, I think it was there to meet federal requirements. Ultimately, maybe the owner's manual might clarify that better. Regards, Alberto
