Help 360 Spyder top and door issue

I took my 360 to my body/detail guy this week to get some minor touch up and scratches fixed. He is a guy I have used for years and generally trust. When I picked up the car after 2 days on site, I tried to retract the top and it went back, but toward the end of the cycle it stopped and the rear cover would not come down and close. The motor continued to run or make noise, but no movement. It also appear that the roof was not laying as flat in the space behind the seats. I tried several times to cycle it, with the same result. It will close properly from the partially open position. I pointed out the issue to the owner's employee (the owner was not there when I picked it up which is unusual), and he said he had no idea as they had not even opened the top. I had closed it when I arrived. The top has never had an issue or not worked before.

I came home, read up on F-chat and decided to check the hydraulic fluid based on a couple of posts here. In that process, I noticed that the passenger door would not open from the outside, another new symptom. I now have to open it from the inside latch. I added some hydraulic fluid (which is a process in itself) and may have added a little too much, about a cm above the fill indicator, but not completely full. This did not help.

My question for those much more informed, is is there anything the body shop guy could have done to cause these issues? The work was relatively minor, fixing a small crack on the side skirt on the driver side and touching up a couple of small dings. Is there something electrical perhaps that would cause both issues, even though both seem mechanical in nature? Is there anything else simple I can try from home before starting the dealer meter? Has anyone had the door issue? Thanks in advance for any insight or advice. J

 

Thanks for the posts. With the door issue, it seems like the mechanical issue, i.e. it doesn't feel like the exterior handle is catching or moving anything like it does on the driver side. To reset, do you mean turning the battery on and off under the hood? I wonder if that would help with the top? It doesn't seem to me that the detailer could have done something to cause these problems, but seems oddly coincidental that it went in without either issue and both of these issues arose while at the shop. Also, I can't imagine that the issues are related unless they are both electrical somehow.

 

The first time it didn't work (at the shop) the engine was running, I think I have tried it both ways though since. I will look at the "glides under the side winglets" which I assume are the metal parts attached to the roof that bend with the top. Thanks for another thing I can try here.

 

It is hard to remember how it used look in the various stages of retraction, but it appears that the cloth part of the roof is not completely storing in the space behind the seats, almost appears to be getting caught on the back of the engine door and preventing full retraction. Also, I have noticed two indentions on the cloth on each side that I don't think were there before, as if the top is being forced into a new or different position.

 

Thanks, I will try that. Hard to get used to driving it without the top down, so even I can get it down once until it goes to the shop, that might work. Also confirmed the above with the dealer, they apparently use a different wire and different fittings so that it doesn't fail again. Said it takes 2-3 hours to do. JRH

 

By "the above," I was referring to the door handle issue.