Are all 360's like this?

Mine does that sometimes when it's cold. I blip the throttle and it evens out. Rare times it doesn't and I turn it off, turn it back on until the 'OK' is displayed, and then fire it up and all is fine. I've also been told it's 'normal' but whenever I get uneven idle in a Ferrari I'm inclined to immediately shut down; too worried about cat fires from running on 4 cylinders from driving 3*8 series cars I guess.

Must not be too serious; have put almost 20,000 miles on the 360 this past year and nothing's blown up yet!

 

I'd say mine does this maybe 20% of the time... but only for 5 seconds.
I live in a moderate climate (not too cold, not too hot) FWIW.

Myself, I don't think I'd take the old "oh that's normal" bit. Perhaps get a second opinion from a qualified independent mechanic.

 

How many miles on the car? Sometimes the 360 starts up a touch rough all right, then evens out. If the car has not been driven in a while, it can be so bad that it will stall and/or you have to turn it off and re-start Once I actually had mine die!

I don't believe it has anything to do with the compression of the motor. Not sure exactly what the reason is, but it's nothing to be too alarmed about. Just give it some gas or give it a second to smooth out.

Ray

 

My CS is really bad that way - sounds cool when its chugging and then goes to smooth idle. Once in a while I have to start it again

 

Yeah, what he said.

 

WE just explored this in another thread.

check the charge/age of the battery. a weak battery can cause this exact symptom.

DM

 

Yeah, tell your dealer to put down the crack pipe!

 

It will do it even with a fresh battery. I'm sure a marginal battery doesn't help, but a new battery isn't going to completely resolve the issue either.

Ray

 

Had a scare yesterday, turn the key and all the lights on the dash started flashing, weird clicking noise, odometer went to zero. Then i turned it off, waited a few minutes, started again and all went back to normal. Its at 23k miles, first time its ever done that!

 

I was told by the dealer shop techs to wait until I see the OK light before starting. Failure to wait MAY interrupt the engine's start-up diagnostic sequence and develop misfires being described in this thread.
I've always waited and never had a problem.

Old wives tale?

 

Dunno about the old wives' tale portion of it, but what the hell, only takes ten seconds out of your life to follow the instructions, right? Gotta figure the manufacturer put that sequence in for a reason.

I'm thinkin' you're doing the right thing!

DM

 

READ THIS...

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253589

 

Guy's,
This is not the battery, although it will experience these symtoms (and more as described in the thread) with a week battery. However a new battery alone will not fix this issue.

It is related to the injectors. This is usually worse the longer the car is stood (to a point). Fuel leaks past the injector seals while the car is stood collecting in the inlet manifold. Then when you come to start it up the fuel floods the cylinders where the seals have leaked and hence the engine has to clear itself before these cylinders catch.

My car has always suffered from this. If I only leave her for a couple of days she starts normally. Anything over a week and I have this issue of half starting. I investigated this and have been advised by an expert that the injectors are the issue. I have also been told that even the 430's have this issue. In fact I have also been told that several brand new cars have had this issue!

I intend to get new injectors and have them fitted in the near future (I have recently spent a lot of cash on her to fix other issues). Had the car years and the issue has always been there and (touch wood) hasn't got any worse.

D.

 

Rampant speculation here, but I've observed the same with my 360 that I've owned for about six weeks... I notice it idles "rough" after 4-5 days without a start; I have also noticed that as soon as the oil pressure gets above 70 psi the engine "fires" and comes up to idle normally.

Could this be simply an issue of this being a dry sump engine, and the oil pump needing to fully lubricate the engine before coming online at full revs? There are many, many, many posts about not revving your engine hard until it is fully warmed up; might this not be a symptom of the ECU trying to keep you from making metal-on-metal contact while it attains full pressure in the lubrication system?

 

No,
This is an injector issue, people can speculate all they want. I will be getting mine fixed and enjoying trouble free starting. You can either take my advice or ignore it, it's your choice.

I've owned 2 previous 348tb's and various Porsches. These where all dry sump engines and none of them ever exhibited this.

Also the oil presure will rise instantaniously when all the cylinders come on line and hence raise the idle speed. No issue here, (The oil pressure rises and fall's with engine revs just as you would expect, hot or cold).

The posts about not reving your engine until the oil is up to temp is common sense and applies to all cars not just Ferrari's (although due to the high rev limit it is more critical on an Fcar). This is due to the above "oil presure" issue. Cold oil does not flow as well as warm oil in addition the oil pressure in a cold engine will be higher (The oposite to your theory, notice that your oil presure will fall as the engine warms up). Add the thermal expansion of the engines internal componets into the equation and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out not to rev a cold engine!

I hope this explains things.

Regards

D.

 

Try this:

1. Cut the power to the battery with the master switch and allow the car to sit over night so that the engine is completely cool.

2. Turn the power back on to the battery with the master switch. A/C switch can be left on - it doesn't matter.

3. Turn the ignition key to on (but do not start the car) and let the car go through its little cycle for 60 seconds or so (you should hear some valves moving in the motor compartment and some clicking)

4. Start the car and let it warm up for maybe 30 or 45 seconds

5. Take the car on a normal drive. Keep the RPM's under 4000 until the gear oil comes up to temp. Then drive the car normally (redline here and there, etc.)

If you suspect the fuel injectors, then run some injector cleaner through the car. Use the highest octane gas available for the car. Ensure the gas cap is tight and that the rubber around the cap is in good condition, etc.

That's all I have ever done on my car (when I owned it) and it worked fine. Generally speaking, if the battery has enough juice to crank the starter over and start the car, then it shouldn't have any negative impact on idling.

Maybe I'm wrong, but I think allowing the car to sit for 15 minutes to heat up may do more harm than go to your situation.

Ray

 

ON MY 2000- 36O I FOUND THAT BY CHANGING GAS SOLVED MY PROBLEM CONVERTED TO CHEVERON GAS. I THINK THE GAS ADDITIVE CLEANS THE ENJECTORS AND SOLVED MY PROBLEM.

 

hmmm.... i think i noticed that now that u r saying it... i will try again, this time with more experimental care....

I usually wait 3 second when it does it (30 % of the times), if the engine doesn;t rev to normal speed, i turn it off and restart (as mentioned above b other fellows)

good luck.. cheers

 

Seafoam is great stuff.

 

These are the same Einsteins who think the problem is caused by the compression ratio on the motor?

Yeah...

okay...

Ray