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348 ECU codes

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by sdiamond, Sep 10, 2009.

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  1. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #1 sdiamond, Sep 10, 2009
    If anyone is online, can you tell me what to do if I want to pull the codes on the 5/8 bank but when I start or turn on the car the 5/8 light remains on. In Ernie's directions for pulling codes you're supposed to start the car and wait for the dash lights to go out before pushing the ECU button? What if it doesn't go out while at idle?
     
  2. ferrarioldman

    ferrarioldman Formula 3
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    #2 ferrarioldman, Sep 10, 2009
    Push the button anyway for about 4 seconds and release it. It should then start flashing.
     
  3. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

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    #3 No Doubt, Sep 10, 2009
    That's fine, you can still press and hold down the ecu button for a bit.
     
  4. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #4 ernie, Sep 10, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2009
    What the rest of the guys said.

    If you get a check engine light that is on, and doesn't turn off, just hold the button down for at least 4 seconds and then release it. The light will then turn off, you will get a brief long light (indicating that the first codes is about to start flashing ) and then the code lights will start flashing.

    The reason the check engine light stays on is because the ecu is telling you that you have a problem that needs to be addressed NOW! The problem is not intermittent, it is constant, and needs to be taken care of.
     
  5. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #5 sdiamond, Sep 10, 2009
    Okay so I ran the test and here are the results (mind you that I've had the car about 5 months and other than hard hot starts it's run like a champ and the ecu's have never been reset by me before...
    on the 5/8 side
    1211 Lamda regulation additive value (whatever that means MAF or O2)
    1212 again, intake manifold compensation (MAF or O2)
    4112 Stroke sensor Phase sensor
    4114 TDC Control Unit recognition (again, Latin )
    4121 Cat Tem ECU
    4131 Compressor connection signal

    Left was the 5/8 side...
    I pressed the button on the 1/4 side and nothing happened. Shut the car off, restarted and presseed it again this time being sure to count for 5 full seconds, still no dash light. What the hell, waited a little bit still running and tried 1 one thousand, 2 one thousand, 3, well you get it. Still no dash light for the 1/4 BUT for THE FIRST TIME EVER I see the SLOW DOWN 1-4 light! So I shut it off and ran back to you the experts.!! What is going on ?
     
  6. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

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    #6 No Doubt, Sep 10, 2009
    With your 348 off, turn the Ignition key to Run without Starting the engine. Do you see both Slow Down lights and both CELs?


    Now, on a different note, you need to test your hot start condition. Run the motor until warm/hot. Turn off the motor while parked. Within 2 seconds of the engine stopping, restart the motor.

    Does it fire up immediately?

    If yes, I can *assure* you that you have one or both Fuel Pressure Regulators (FPR) failing...which will cause Lambda error codes and heat up your cats, triggering Slowdown Lights.

    Easy part to swap out for new. Just a Bosch part. O'Reilly Auto Parts carries them for pennies (well, in Ferrari lingo, anyway).
     
  7. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #7 sdiamond, Sep 10, 2009
    In my experience, yes, it will restart when hot if it's only a couple of minutes. More of a problem after 15 minutes or so then it takes a few tries.

    Just turned it on (not start) and both CEL's and only the right SLOW DOWN stayed on the left went out right away
     
  8. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #8 sdiamond, Sep 10, 2009
    Do you happen to know the number for the BOSCH part(s) I saw the instructions for replacing them and it looks like something I could actually do. What about the indicators? Will they go out by themselves? Assuming you answer that replacing them is the absolute next step, what to do about the ECU's ? Anything like resetting them first? And why do you suppose that the 1/4 diagnostic light never came on but the slow down did? Wouldn't there be codes for the right side too?
     
  9. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

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    #9 No Doubt, Sep 10, 2009
    The Bosch part numbers and pictorials for replacing the FPRs are in the 348 Primer (see link below in my signature) as well as here on FChat.

    As soon as you can tolerate the heat in the engine bay after a drive, you can, if desired, pull off the small black vacuum hose that goes from the top of the engine manifold near the cockpit to each FPR. Rub your finger on the end of it and smell your finger as well as visually see if any fuel leaks out of said black tubing. Fuel smell/sight there is a dead giveaway that the FPR has failed so badly that fuel is leaking into your vacuum system (which can cause rough running all on its own).

    The above is not an all-inclusive test. An FPR can go bad without leaking into the black vacuum tubing, but fuel in that tubing is 100% a sign to swap out that part.

    Or you could forget that little "test" and simply replace both FPRs.

    If your 1/4 CEL illuminates with the Ignition key in the Run position, but not when you press the right side ecu button, then I'd check that the right side ecu button is properly connected to the ecu wiring (i.e. plugged in).

    If that CEL never illuminates, then I'd first replace that bulb in my dash.

    And yes, there will always be codes for both sides. If everything is good, you'll get a 4444 code. If there is a bad code, then you'll get that instead of 4444. So, no matter what there will always be at least one code in each ecu.
     
    FloridaIsland348 likes this.
  10. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #10 sdiamond, Sep 10, 2009
    I'll check the connections to the button on the right side. The cel 1/4 does come on when the key is turned on and happily it's off in a minute. With all the info and pictures I think I'll just go ahead and replace the two FPR's for peace of mind (and ease of chore). I'll check the connections and try to run the 1/4 bank ecu codes to see what is there. It's odd that the slow down light would be on if the car never even warmed up that much and the engine while a little warmed certainly the cats have never glowed or seemed unusually warm. Is it prudent to then change out the FPR's, run the car and then check the codes again? or, assuming that when the new ones are in and if there are no llights that I'm good to go until (if) a warning light comes back? Will the SLOW DOWN light go out by itself if this resolves the problem? Is this the time to change the o2 sensors also since that doesn't seem a gargantuan task as well?
     
  11. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #11 sdiamond, Sep 10, 2009
    Shemp, by the way, my faith is restored in the Brotherhood (if not in the car yet) that you have been so kind as to "walk" me through this!! Such a beautiful car that it's sometimes most frustrating for a newbie to approach these issues without feeling overwhelmed and "thoughts" of flat bedding it off tp the shop (heaven forbid) ;-)
     
  12. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

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    #12 No Doubt, Sep 10, 2009
    Follow ernie's great pictorial for replacing your O2 sensors just for the pure satisfaction of knocking out the easiest of all 348 maintenance projects with style.

    The O2's are truly a great way for a pure, honest beginner to get his feet wet in maintaining these cars. A fantastic confidence builder.
     
  13. AceMaster

    AceMaster Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #13 AceMaster, Sep 11, 2009
    once again, the brotherhood pulls through!
     
  14. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #14 sdiamond, Sep 11, 2009
    I had to smile to myself this morning, all the fretting last night about finding the issue, checking how to get it fixed and worrying about the process..... Then the thought crossed my mind this morning...Oh my, what a terrible problem I have..."that I have to spend some time working on my FERRARI". Ah, life is hard ;-)
     
  15. ferrarioldman

    ferrarioldman Formula 3
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    #15 ferrarioldman, Sep 11, 2009
    Unfortunately, with your car being a '95, you have the more expensive FPR.
     
  16. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

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    #16 No Doubt, Sep 11, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  17. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #17 sdiamond, Sep 11, 2009
    sorry to bother you again buddy, but O'Reilly can't find anything in the store with the number from the link online and the numbers on the side of the box in you post. Is it possible that Bosch uses a "different" manufacturer number? The website brings up a price of 123.99 but when I called the local store they could not trace anything by that part #. I can try the Delco, GM or other aftermarkets if you feel they are virtually identical?
     
  18. ferrarioldman

    ferrarioldman Formula 3
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    #18 ferrarioldman, Sep 11, 2009
    Just order it online and see what happens. That is a damn good price.
     
  19. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #19 sdiamond, Sep 11, 2009
    Okay, parts are on order.. Two FPR's at $124 each and two Bosch O2 sensors at $109 each. So under $500 and the guidance of the brotherhood, I hope to be in good shape once the parts are in mid next week. Probably a couple of grand at the dealer. I'll post the parts information and actual prices once they are in. Had good luck at the parts shop and I'm happy to pass the info and pictures along as we go.
     
  20. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

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    #20 No Doubt, Sep 11, 2009
    Oddly enough, I originally ordered two FPRs from RockAuto, but they only sent me one and cancelled my order for the other. I had to order my 2nd FPR from O'Reilley.

    But if Rock Auto has these FPRs back in stock, then they are even cheaper: http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,23,0280160738
     
  21. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #21 sdiamond, Sep 14, 2009
    looks like 9 business days, but thanks for the update. In Chicago, 9 biz days can mean an early snow :) so for a few bucks more they should be in by tomorrow.
     
  22. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

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    #22 No Doubt, Sep 16, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Got my 2nd one from O'Reilley today...
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  23. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #23 sdiamond, Sep 16, 2009
    Still waiting for mine to arrive. So here's the in-between update... Car been sitting for a week or so. Started it up tonight, no warning lights, let it idle for about 10 minutes, nice even sound still no lights. Took a short drive around the neighborhood and the 5/8 lit up. no change in the running of the car but I went back home. Ran the codes and we've got 1211; 1212; and the lovely 4121. Okay, no parts changed so why should the codes change. I've been trying to get the 1/4 codes but the button still doesn't work. Seems like it's connected but it a PITA to get to the connectors on that thing to check them. it's behind a metal housing. Wonder if the button unscrews or something? Anyway pushed the 1/4 side for about 5 seconds, nothing. Pushed it again for about 5 seconds again no lights but the idle dipped. Gave the throttle a little goose and it revved up and then stalled. Ahhhh. Thoughts?
     
  24. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #24 ernie, Sep 17, 2009
    The button just plugs into the wiring harness.
     
  25. sdiamond

    sdiamond Formula Junior

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    #25 sdiamond, Sep 17, 2009
    The plastic housing for the button has two spring tabs on it that hold it in place. By rotating the button slightly you can then press in both sides and the button slides out forward. I pushed both the connectors in snugly and will check it later. I would guess that Daniel has a replacement if the button itself is shot....

    Also, picked up the parts today. tow O2 sensors at $107 each and two FPR's at $102 each. Hopefully just going ahead and replacing both sets will take care of the "CEL code" problem as well as the proverbial "Hot start" issue. If so, it is certainly money well spent to get the red head back on the road. Here in the midwest the cold will be coming too soon and I haven't had my full Summer Fix yet. I am such a HUGE FAN of the 348 that I hate to see it just sitting in the garage!!

    I'm going to tackle the replacements this weekend and follow Shemp's fabulous pictorial. Since there are already great pictures of the process I'll skip the photos with the possible exception of an enormous smile if everything goes as planned and she's back on the road.
     
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